fatboi07

So im swapping a new engine into my 96 civic (old one blew just replacing with d16y7, dont ask) and im on the driver side getting ready to start pulling my axles. well i got the top ball joint out of the spindle and the steering ball joint out but when i try to unbolt the 3rd (bottom) the nut and bolt spin together. And it wont give for ****. Any solution to this? Its stopped me dead in the water with my swap and i need this fixed quick since i dont even have a dd right now. When i get this running this will be it. Thanks.

pdiggitydogg

Put the top and steering back together...you dont need to remove the entire knuckle.
After that, jack up the LCA (flat spot) so there is pressure on the joint.
You should be able to break it loose then. Replace that joint too btw

MonkeyPuzzle

you can grab a tool that will push them apart from honda (mega 'spensive) or you can buy a cheap substitute from pep boys.

or skip the tool all together, there is a place you can just hammer it to loosen and it will slide right out.
I know there is a good thread for this lemme go find it for you.

fatboi07

thanks man i would seriously aprreciate that. Im not to worried on putting those back right now, since it will probably be easier with all that out of the way. But i just want to make sure u guys understand what im saying (dont mean that as a ******** at all). On that very bottom joint there is the threaded post that goes through the spindle. Theres a nut on there. When i turn the nut it dosnt unscrew like it should, the whole threaded post rotates. Is it supposed to do that?

pdiggitydogg

I got what youre saying - try what I posted.
No, its not supposed to spin the entire joint, but it can, due to construction and nature of what it is.
Good joints are firm - yours is not...
Once there is pressure on the joint, you should be able to remove the nut...and, like I said, replace the ball joint when you put it back together

fatboi07

k cheif will do. And thanks for the help. Im gonna go try to right now. Ill let u know what happens. And btw, u know how those little rubber bushing things have grease in em? Well i kinda broke one or two open. They make polyureathane replacements right? Any good? And what exactly would I ask for if i wanted to buy them?

MonkeyPuzzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatboi07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k cheif will do. And thanks for the help. Im gonna go try to right now. Ill let u know what happens. And btw, u know how those little rubber bushing things have grease in em? Well i kinda broke one or two open. They make polyureathane replacements right? Any good? And what exactly would I ask for if i wanted to buy them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the boot, yeah I tore mine on one side using a ball joint sperator (the big fork dohickie). I'd recommend replacing it while you are down there with it all apart. Its not a huge deal though, the boot just keeps the grease in and the dirt out.

fatboi07

No...not the cv boot, the little rubber bushings that i guess make up the ball joints that are filled with grease. Like a sealed lube point. And i tried jacking it up. The nut still wont come off the threaded stud,the whole stude and nut turns.

pdiggitydogg

You need boots with clean grease - no dirt allowed.
The parts store will probably sell you plain old rubber boots...you dont need urethane ones...
Hell, when you buy a new joint, you'll get a new boot anyway.

Dont use pickle forks...they suck...
Try this for lower ball joint popping...you will never go back to dumb forks again::
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

fatboi07

ok look at the pic in that thread. At the bottom ball joint there in a THREADED STUD. It will have a NUT on it. You should be able to just remove it. My threaded stud (balljoint) is turning with the stud. HOW DO I GET THE NUT OFF? THE JACKING UP METHOD DIDNT WORK. I JUST TRIED IT.

fatboi07

ps ^^^wasnt trying to be an *** in that last post. Its just frustarting trying to ask a question that u really dont know how to ask. Im an engine guy, not suspension.

fatboi07

bump for answer to question.

burnitdown

dude told how to get it off. put pressure on the stud with a jack. if that doesn't work, cut it off. it's worn and need replaced anyway.
i bought some boots from an energy dealer off of ebay, they were cheap and came quick

edit:http://stores.ebay.com/Energy-Suspension

fatboi07

but that joint is part of the spindle right? or does it come off and u can replace it? And what if i dont have anything to cut it off with?

burnitdown

the ball joint is pressed into the knuckle, you should be able to slip a sawzall blade in there and cut it. once you've done that you'll need to beat it out with a socket and press a new one in. but before you start doing that, jack up the knuckle by placing your jack on the balljoint stud. that should put enough pressure on it to keep it from spinning, while you crank on it with an open end wrench

fatboi07

Ok so put the jack on the end of the bolt stud, then use an open end wrench on it. Ok ill give that a shot. So just to make sure i understand this, the joint itself is replacable? I wont have to replace the whole spindle? Just in case I have to destroy it.

pdiggitydogg

The whole joint....yes. You need to remove the entire knuckle to change it - its too difficult to put a new one in, while its attached to the car.
You'll have to remove the whole caliper via the bracket (Do NOT undo the brake hose unless you want to bleed the whole system)

This is getting silly....look:

Green is where you should be jacking, to put pressure on the joint.
I doubt you will have any other luck placing a flat jack ON the stud, raising it for pressure.

OR try:

Yes, I realize that is for popping the joint from the lca, but it will add pressure to the joint and may help you loosen it.
You need to jack up the LCA, at the point I showed above, high enough to where you can jam a ratchet in... Then lower the jack - ratchet puts force on the lca and knuckle = pressure on the joint.
***
This is assuming you still have the shock attached to the car (the spring will put downward pressure on the lca) Actually, everything Ive said about pressure relies on that...

Have you tried heating the nut? PB Blaster?

You DID remove the cotter pin, right? I mean, I know its obvious, but you never know...

Seriously, if you really just think that you have tried every single way, you might just end up cutting the damn stud off, below the lca, popping it and replacing. That would be the easiest way...and really, youre going to change it anyways.

As far as getting new new in, try this (after you bash the old out):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1842802

chuisek9

just go to the auto store and get a fork to remove the ball joint it cost like 14 dollarsthe small one!!

fatboi07

No i already dropped the shock/spring assembly out, havnt tried heating the nut, yes i have pb blaster, ive pb blasted the **** outta it. Yes i removed the cotter pin. Its just weird how the bolt turns with the nut and not the nut around the bolt. Stupid joint! I have a friend that has a machine shop. Maybe he can press a new joint in for me.

pdiggitydogg

I love how no one reads your damn thread and just assumes you cant get it out of the lca...

Put your shock/spring back on and retry the original method I suggested. I bet it will work, if not, try #2

fatboi07

pdiggity thank you. Thats exactly what ive been trying to say the whole time. Im like wtf?!?! Read the **** b4 u suggest ****. Ah damn ur awesome. But 4real ill go try that here in a little when it cools off. Btw im assuming lca is lower control arm? And they are on the back wheels too right?

pdiggitydogg

lca is lower control arm, right
You do have a pair for the rear wheels, but theyre quite a different design

fatboi07

ah. thank u.