low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms.
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low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms.
Let me start by saying i have a 92 civic dx with a d15b7. I've had the problem since i got the car last year. Within the last year I've replace the wires(oem), plugs(ngk), o2(denso), fuel filter(napa), thermostat. I recently did a valve adjustment and cleaned the IACV(which wasn't that dirty). Also, the cap and rotor were replaced before I got the car, but still within the last two years.
When my car is warmed up , the idle dips down low to around 650 and then will raise back up to 750 or 850.On some rare occasions it will either stay at a constant low or sometimes even a normal 850 or 950.
Also, when accelerating in second gear from 2000rpm, the car since to stutter. Or if i let the car bog down to 2000rpms in second gear, it will start to feel like it's misfiring. The engine starts to buck.
Im thinking it's possibly the dizzy, but am looking for other suggestions.
When my car is warmed up , the idle dips down low to around 650 and then will raise back up to 750 or 850.On some rare occasions it will either stay at a constant low or sometimes even a normal 850 or 950.
Also, when accelerating in second gear from 2000rpm, the car since to stutter. Or if i let the car bog down to 2000rpms in second gear, it will start to feel like it's misfiring. The engine starts to buck.
Im thinking it's possibly the dizzy, but am looking for other suggestions.
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (drewthomas14)
bump. cleaned my grounds last night, which also reset my ecu and still no change.
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (drewthomas14)
mine is doing the same thing as you state, i still havent figured mine out, keep us updated if you find out what it is, i have cleaned the iacv and done a full tune up and still no change for mine either
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (clemsonteg)
have you replaced anything in the distributer or checked your timing? im considering replacing the coil and igniter, or possibly the whole dizzy.
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (drewthomas14)
i checked my timing and i replaced my dizzy with a different used one and had no change, so unless the used dizzy has the exact same problem as the old one im not sure
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (clemsonteg)
wrong dizzy...some guys who are cheap will replace the dizzy with anything cheap but the original one...
then, by changing the spark plug wires order, ur car can start up but really suffer thus changing your timing overtime.
Get your VIN # go to a dealership and get the exact model.
Yours is a 92DX civic so it should be the TD-41U. There are 2 types though...one with a bolt on the rotor and the other without it.
I believe yours is without the bolt on the rotor.
I dont remember the order of the spark plug wires but u can ask a mod here...
then, by changing the spark plug wires order, ur car can start up but really suffer thus changing your timing overtime.
Get your VIN # go to a dealership and get the exact model.
Yours is a 92DX civic so it should be the TD-41U. There are 2 types though...one with a bolt on the rotor and the other without it.
I believe yours is without the bolt on the rotor.
I dont remember the order of the spark plug wires but u can ask a mod here...
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (Striker_1818)
i replaced mine with another from a 98 ex (td-80u) and it didnt change, but who knows, maybe the one i got had the exact same problem as the original
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (Striker_1818)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Striker_1818 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec and non-vtec distributors are different...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand thats true for 92-95, but how is that relevant? he said he is thinking of changing his dizzy, not that he already did, his best bet is to test the coil and the ignitor per a helms manual to see if it is within spec. Also I have been reading alot of how the eld can cause low warm idle, i was told to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery when its at idle (crappy low idle) and see what the reading is, probably around 12-12.5 when it should be 14v, and then throw the ecu into open loop by unpluging the o2 sensor and measure again, if it gets better and reads 14v then, you might have an eld thats going bad
i understand thats true for 92-95, but how is that relevant? he said he is thinking of changing his dizzy, not that he already did, his best bet is to test the coil and the ignitor per a helms manual to see if it is within spec. Also I have been reading alot of how the eld can cause low warm idle, i was told to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery when its at idle (crappy low idle) and see what the reading is, probably around 12-12.5 when it should be 14v, and then throw the ecu into open loop by unpluging the o2 sensor and measure again, if it gets better and reads 14v then, you might have an eld thats going bad
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (drewthomas14)
i have the same problem as well right when i replaced my whole distributor. i marked and had everything exact and then i checked my timing on the timing marks on the crank pulley. correct me if i'm wrong there are four slash marks on the pulley, three are close together and the one is by itself. i tried to get it close to the three gathered marks, but no go. so i had to go with the one mark. my car has a pretty bad hesistation til 3k rpm. is there anything else i can do? i have new plugs, wires, distributor. would keeping the timing here do anything to the car? thanks
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (B18bEG6ick)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18bEG6ick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem as well right when i replaced my whole distributor. i marked and had everything exact and then i checked my timing on the timing marks on the crank pulley. correct me if i'm wrong there are four slash marks on the pulley, three are close together and the one is by itself. i tried to get it close to the three gathered marks, but no go. so i had to go with the one mark. my car has a pretty bad hesistation til 3k rpm. is there anything else i can do? i have new plugs, wires, distributor. would keeping the timing here do anything to the car? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok what kind of timing gun were u using? that 3 marks are for no advance timing gun, which will light up at 0 degree, the middle mark mean u are at the right timing.
the one that by itself is used for timing gun with advance, mean u read that mark when u adjust your timing gun to the timing u want and move the distributor to match that mark.
it should be pretty stright forward, just make sure u are adjusting your timing with the right rule of your tools.
ok what kind of timing gun were u using? that 3 marks are for no advance timing gun, which will light up at 0 degree, the middle mark mean u are at the right timing.
the one that by itself is used for timing gun with advance, mean u read that mark when u adjust your timing gun to the timing u want and move the distributor to match that mark.
it should be pretty stright forward, just make sure u are adjusting your timing with the right rule of your tools.
#12
Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (clemsonteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clemsonteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i understand thats true for 92-95, but how is that relevant? he said he is thinking of changing his dizzy, not that he already did, his best bet is to test the coil and the ignitor per a helms manual to see if it is within spec. Also I have been reading alot of how the eld can cause low warm idle, i was told to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery when its at idle (crappy low idle) and see what the reading is, probably around 12-12.5 when it should be 14v, and then throw the ecu into open loop by unpluging the o2 sensor and measure again, if it gets better and reads 14v then, you might have an eld thats going bad</TD></TR></TABLE>
because he said he has had that problem since he got the car...
i changed the dizzy on my 93dx ayr ago with a wrong one...then all the description above was happening to me...then bought the correct one and it started working better however the other dizzy i put in the f*cked up everything even the timing...
i understand thats true for 92-95, but how is that relevant? he said he is thinking of changing his dizzy, not that he already did, his best bet is to test the coil and the ignitor per a helms manual to see if it is within spec. Also I have been reading alot of how the eld can cause low warm idle, i was told to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery when its at idle (crappy low idle) and see what the reading is, probably around 12-12.5 when it should be 14v, and then throw the ecu into open loop by unpluging the o2 sensor and measure again, if it gets better and reads 14v then, you might have an eld thats going bad</TD></TR></TABLE>
because he said he has had that problem since he got the car...
i changed the dizzy on my 93dx ayr ago with a wrong one...then all the description above was happening to me...then bought the correct one and it started working better however the other dizzy i put in the f*cked up everything even the timing...
#13
Well for me guys I hate to say it but it can also be from an ecu that is starting to take a crap like mine was on my B16 motor, because i did a whole tuneup, timing set right and everything and then when I put in another ecu, it still did the same thing but then come to find out, the next ecu was going bad also and had a glitch in it, so then we tried another ecu and it cleared my bogging and hesitation like yall described. So please just take this variable into consideration.
#14
Re: (Yip Man)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yip Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well for me guys I hate to say it but it can also be from an ecu that is starting to take a crap like mine was on my B16 motor, because i did a whole tuneup, timing set right and everything and then when I put in another ecu, it still did the same thing but then come to find out, the next ecu was going bad also and had a glitch in it, so then we tried another ecu and it cleared my bogging and hesitation like yall described. So please just take this variable into consideration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^ listen to this guy too...
if your distributor is the right one for your engine(in case someone swap engines on it before u got the car) and ur timing is fine...
then check the ecu
^^ listen to this guy too...
if your distributor is the right one for your engine(in case someone swap engines on it before u got the car) and ur timing is fine...
then check the ecu
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Re: low warm idle and choppy acceleration at low rpms. (spoon_ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok what kind of timing gun were u using? that 3 marks are for no advance timing gun, which will light up at 0 degree, the middle mark mean u are at the right timing.
the one that by itself is used for timing gun with advance, mean u read that mark when u adjust your timing gun to the timing u want and move the distributor to match that mark.
it should be pretty stright forward, just make sure u are adjusting your timing with the right rule of your tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the timing gun that i am using doesn't have the digital adjustment, it just hooks up for from the #1 spark plugs and the battery. then i can only line it up to the timing mark thats only by itself, i can't get it to the other three marks. what timing light should i use or you guys using? also should i bump up the idle too cause the rpm is close to the first line? thanks
the one that by itself is used for timing gun with advance, mean u read that mark when u adjust your timing gun to the timing u want and move the distributor to match that mark.
it should be pretty stright forward, just make sure u are adjusting your timing with the right rule of your tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the timing gun that i am using doesn't have the digital adjustment, it just hooks up for from the #1 spark plugs and the battery. then i can only line it up to the timing mark thats only by itself, i can't get it to the other three marks. what timing light should i use or you guys using? also should i bump up the idle too cause the rpm is close to the first line? thanks
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