prjctwhteg

So I just got a h22a4-t from swapped into my perfectly good running absolutely nothing wrong 97 civic hatch ... The swap came out of a 99 civic , so the guy had to redo my wire harness to be compatible, and he also put bosch injector clips, along with a obd2 ecu conversion harness... well I get my car back make it 50 miles down the road and my speedo starts bouncing from 60-85 the car shuts off and the fuel pump quits working (warlboro 255) I get the $165 tow back to the shop where it sits for a week while he sorts everything out ... turns out i'm getting 9 volts to my injector clips instead of 12 volts... not to mention he had to rebuild my dizzy... I get the car back drive it for a week and it starts forming what I guess you would call power surges where you can feel the car die out for a second and regain the power "very annoying!" Also my boost gauge while riding in vacuum was bouncing from 3-7ish whenever the surges would happen which was about every 15 seconds... After a week of that the car stopped working again ... get it towed back to the guy's shop (another $85) where it has been for 2 weeks now and he can't tell me anything except that "one day it will work perfectly fine, the next day it will turn over but not start" "nothing my shop has done is at fault, this is directly related to someone's band aid patch job, So there is nothing I can do for your or tell you"



Soooo if anybody has some logical input besides "search" or "it seems like something is wrong with your wires" please let me know something .... i'm without a car right now and starting to run low on money somebody please help me out

prjctwhteg

Also I did drive the car around that the swap came out of and everything was perfectly fine... until it was all swapped to my car and all hell broke loose

PrecisionH23a

Just to clarify things for you guys... we are the ones who did the swap and there has been a lot left out of this story. The engine has ran flawlessly for over a year in our '99 4 door. We've done this swap a ton of times and I have built a pretty good reputation on this board... even though if I don't post that frequently anymore. Our website clearly speaks for the work that we do.

We installed the swap and turbo kit. The car started right up with the swap. Later in the day after it ran for a while it would not start. We 'thought' it had to do with the CKY/TDC sensor/plug so we replaced it and the car ran just fine. Jordan came to pick the car up and it would not start again. We checked a few things out and then the car was running again. Several hours after filling up with gas his car will not start.

We inspected the distributor as well suspecting a faulty igniter. The ICM, rotor button, and distributor cap were all replaced. This resulted in the car starting again. The next day it would not start again. We also noticed the fuel pump was not priming. Replacing the main relay fixed the fuel pump priming issue immediately. All grounds were inspected, sensor grounds were traced, and the main relay was inspected. We noticed a voltage drop between the battery to relay to injector clips. I had two Honda Master Mechanics come by to help us a bit more since they are more knowledgeable than anyone else when it comes to the honda electrical systems. The main harness plug on the drivers side shock tower seemed to be where the voltage drop was occuring. A prong was a bit loose thus leading us to believe this is where the voltage drop was occuring.

Jordan came and picked his car up which ran with no problems for rougly 2 weeks. During this time Jordan relocated/installed a few gauges and a new dash cluster. We get another phone call about the car not running and being dropped back off. We do a preliminary diagnosis which shows voltage drop to the injectors once again. The next day when I have a free minute to inspect the car further it starts. To make a very long story short, the car will start one morning... then the next it will not. The times it will not start we will roll it out of the shop and severl hours later it will start again and have correct voltage.

We had our Honda Master Technicians come back out to inspect the problem but unfortunately everytime they were here the car would run and not show any voltage drop. In order for us to solve the issue we have to replicate the problem. With the car starting/not starting we cannot diagnose exactly where the voltage drop is occuring. I have even driven the car for a few days hoping it would cut off on me and it started flawlessly while in my posession on the test drives. In order to further investigate the issue the complete electrical system must be inspected from the fuel pump to the main relay from the main relay under the complete dash harness to the engine bay. Until the problem occurs again you cannot pin-point the issue. We have 30 pages of schematics on this issue and we are simply just waiting for the car to not start long enough for us to trace the electrical system and find where the voltage drop is occuring.

This issue is very annoying and we have done our best to assess the situation. Unfortunately it seems to be a pre-existing issue with the car. The ecu has been replaced/tested, distributor, Conversion harness, main relay, etc. This car was also from up north and had a heavy amount of rust which we have seen surface corrosion on several connectors on the engine harness as well as fuse box. If any of you guys have any insight

Former User

Intermittent problems are the worst. With that said, it sure sounds like a bad ECU/main relay ground on the thermostat housing.