MiKeAhOwSkI

Just got my built (pistons,rods,new block) d16z6 in, and my oil pressure seems low.

I get about 15-25 psi at idle depending if it idles really low when warm or normal idle. then it's about 35 psi at anything else other than idle.

I keep seeing that it is probably the oil pump, but it seems to work somewhat, since it goes from 15 psi at idle to about 35-40 psi. but then it stops when it should go up to 60-80 psi??

Anyone have any ideas on what I can check? block has new ACL bearings that were plastigauged and are in spec. Oil pump is questionable... also could the oil pressure sender on the back of the block cause something like this?

ahh I'm stumped any help is appreciated!

SkRiBLaH

did you replace the oil pump when you did the rebuild?

MiKeAhOwSkI

I bought the block all bored out w/ the pump in a bag. so the pump could be bad... just trying to get any other suggestions before I rip it out.

are there any little things I could overlook swapping in a new shortblock?? like something in the block that deals w/ oil?

racinskittle

-check your oil on the dipstick make sure you're not losing any.

-pull out the plugs and make sure they're clean

did you have the thrust washers and all that stuff?

Otherwise you may be right could be the oil pump.

Kamin

plastigauge? reading a piece of smashed plastic isnt the best method of getting bearing clearances for future refrence. next time use a dial bore gauge and a micrometer.

since its a rebuilt engine there are so many variables that could cause this to happen, but if i were you i would pull the pump and inspect it via a helms.

MiKeAhOwSkI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plastigauge? reading a piece of smashed plastic isnt the best method of getting bearing clearances for future refrence. next time use a dial bore gauge and a micrometer.

since its a rebuilt engine there are so many variables that could cause this to happen, but if i were you i would pull the pump and inspect it via a helms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well the helms manual uses it, so hopefully it's close enough.

I mean it, builds oil pressure, but it doesn't build it high enough... No oil leaks, except from the pan a little (would that matter?) oil is right at the top mark.

Is there anything like an oil passage, or oil jet anywhere in the block that I may have missed since we put in a bare shortblock using the old head??

hopefully someone might have an idea of what it could be

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plastigauge? reading a piece of smashed plastic isnt the best method of getting bearing clearances for future refrence. next time use a dial bore gauge and a micrometer.

since its a rebuilt engine there are so many variables that could cause this to happen, but if i were you i would pull the pump and inspect it via a helms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i have both mike if you want to use them. New rods and new bearings. Cranks most likely in good shape, I dont see why plastigauge wouldn't suffice. But yeah, there's better I guess.

Kamin

when you are building for performance, having an estimate isnt good enough IMO. if you are building for daily driving, yea "looks close enough" will work.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you are building for performance, having an estimate isnt good enough IMO. if you are building for daily driving, yea "looks close enough" will work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you takling about. Bearing clearances have little to do with performance and EVERYTHING to do with daily driving.

MiKeAhOwSkI

bump before bed

racinskittle

Welp, anyone have problems with penzoil? I dont use it. I've heard bad things about it from my dad (he's had it foam on him before) and of course things from the internet. (I guess wax based). Anyways apparently it can clog the filter in some cases (idk for sure though).

SOOOOO, Mikes changing it tomorrow. It's gonna be interesting to see if it makes a difference. Im crossing my fingers.

Anyone else have problems with penzoil? Just curious. Should be interesting.......

Kamin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you takling about. Bearing clearances have little to do with performance and EVERYTHING to do with daily driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they have everything to do with longevity and performance. you would be surprised how much. an engine thats built with tight clearances will make less power because there is more of a restriction for the flow of oil. an engine with larger clearances will make more power but not last as long.

im talking about a world that 95% of people who build engines never even touch. thats why plastiqauge isnt my method of choice, i like knowing to the ten-thousandths of an inch what my clearances are. the average joe dosent need to know anything that accuratley thats why plastigauge has been the method of choice for rebuilding OEM daily driving engines but if you are building for ANY kind of performance plastigauge should never be an option.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they have everything to do with longevity and performance. you would be surprised how much. an engine thats built with tight clearances will make less power because there is more of a restriction for the flow of oil. an engine with larger clearances will make more power but not last as long.

im talking about a world that 95% of people who build engines never even touch. thats why plastiqauge isnt my method of choice, i like knowing to the ten-thousandths of an inch what my clearances are. the average joe dosent need to know anything that accuratley thats why plastigauge has been the method of choice for rebuilding OEM daily driving engines but if you are building for ANY kind of performance plastigauge should never be an option. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda gives a range. If you're in that range, you're good. You'll have enough oil for sufficient lubrication. Now your telling me your tenth of a thousandth is going to be better than the range honda engineers give for clearances and thus give more power? Right. Well whats your clearance then?

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they have everything to do with longevity and performance. you would be surprised how much. an engine thats built with tight clearances will make less power because there is more of a restriction for the flow of oil. an engine with larger clearances will make more power but not last as long.

im talking about a world that 95% of people who build engines never even touch. thats why plastiqauge isnt my method of choice, i like knowing to the ten-thousandths of an inch what my clearances are. the average joe dosent need to know anything that accuratley thats why plastigauge has been the method of choice for rebuilding OEM daily driving engines but if you are building for ANY kind of performance plastigauge should never be an option. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda gives a range. If you're in that range, you're good....You'll have plenty of oil for proper lubrication. Now your telling me your tenth of a thousandth is going to be better than the range honda engineers give for clearances? Right. Well, what's your clearance then.

On the OTHER hand, plastiguages aren't always the most accurate things to read. That's a different story. There's accuracy and there's precision.

Kamin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda gives a range. If you're in that range, you're good....You'll have plenty of oil for proper lubrication. Now your telling me your tenth of a thousandth is going to be better than the range honda engineers give for clearances? Right. Well, what's your clearance then.

On the OTHER hand, plastiguages aren't always the most accurate things to read. That's a different story. There's accuracy and there's precision.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude you are missing what im saying FOR OEM ENGINE BUILDING A RANGE OF SPECS AND A CLOSE ESTIMATE (plastigauge) IS FINE. if you want to get into the performance aspect more, plastigauge dosent cut it because its a PITA to read and dosent give exact measurments.

on my RB i dont have the slightest idea what my clearances are, ive never rebuilt it because it hasnt needed it. now on the last engine i built the clearances were
mains: .0024 .0025 .0023 .0025
rods: .0025 .0026 .0028 .0028 .0029 .0029 .0026 .0028
(obviously not a honda engine)

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude you are missing what im saying FOR OEM ENGINE BUILDING A RANGE OF SPECS AND A CLOSE ESTIMATE (plastigauge) IS FINE. if you want to get into the performance aspect more, plastigauge dosent cut it because its a PITA to read and dosent give exact measurments.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh lol. that's what i was trying to say.

Kamin

*smacks forehead*

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*smacks forehead* </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha it's alright. I've got my title for a reason

dominate9

I am having low oil pressure problems as well. The pressure is excellent while driving but at idle, it sits at like 5 psi. I was having this problem before, then one of my rear balancer shaft bearings went. So naturally, I thought it was the bearing that had caused the low oil pressure. I recently replaced the bearing and the idle pressure is still low. Anyone have any ideas?

MiKeAhOwSkI

Mine ended up being the wrong oil pan... what 's your setup?

dominate9

H22A4 block
H22A head
T3/T4OE turbo
H22 Type S cams
SFP manifold
-3AN feed line
oil pressure split off from oil pressure sender tap
Autometer oil 0-200psi oil pressure

I think the gauge might....might be the problem since the range is so long, but sometimes it looks like its sitting on zero!

MiKeAhOwSkI

Could be that, mine sits at 10 at idle... pretty easy to see on a 1-100 gauge.

dominate9

I thought it was the oil cooler that caused the problem. So I pulled my motor, replaced the balancer shaft bearing, and put the motor back in. I thought everything was fixed because I was getting higher oil pressure at startup and while driving. I was also getting about 15-20 psi at idle (850rpm), however, I noticed that after the car was running for a good while, like 30 minutes are so, the pressure would drop to what looked like 2-3psi on the autometer #4322 gauge. I just I didn't fixed the problem, huh. The only thing I can think of now is the oil pump gear. But I bought the block with a Prodrive oil pump gear in it. Those aren't supposed to go bad like the stock ones, right?

Frozen E

Correct me if I'm wrong here but if you're running 15 psi on a warmed up motor at idle you're fine. On cold startup you're going to see those 50+ psi. But once the oil gets nice and warmed up it's normal to see 15 psi or so. Hell, my turbo B16 only sees about 12-16 when it's warmed up. I don't think you have anything to worry about. You're fine if those numbers you put up are once the motor has been running for about 10-15 minutes and everything is up to operating temp.

dominate9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct me if I'm wrong here but if you're running 15 psi on a warmed up motor at idle you're fine. On cold startup you're going to see those 50+ psi. But once the oil gets nice and warmed up it's normal to see 15 psi or so. Hell, my turbo B16 only sees about 12-16 when it's warmed up. I don't think you have anything to worry about. You're fine if those numbers you put up are once the motor has been running for about 10-15 minutes and everything is up to operating temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correction. I said that I get 15-20psi at first, but after the car has been running a while, like 30 minutes of driving, I get only like 2-3.