lemontit

I am having similar scenario as this thread....and there was nice a final word on what you discovered. wanted to know what your outcome was? also it looks like your engine was actually running. and that's where mine differs...

I have a rebuilt engine, mini me build D15B8 bottom end (CX) with a D16Z6 head, head was shaved and I believe it received a 3 angle valve job and old valves were fine to reuse I was told by the machinist. The bottom end was not decked from what I can tell, but has new arp race bearings polished crank stock rods, and new OEM D16Z6 pistons by NPR and new rings which the cylinders where either bored/honed to match. The I used a new Felpro D16Y8 head gasket since it was recommended over the Z6 because its a MLS instead of the graphite/composite material. I installed it with brand new ARP head studs, properly hand tightened them like instructions state, used ARP assembly lube on the top and torqued them with factory sequence in three equal increments 20, 40, and 60 in/lbs. I have rechecked the torquing, and is perfect. I have checked for fuel pressure, LED node lights for the injectors and good gas. I have also checked the whole ignition system from power source into distributor, through the coil, ICM, new wires, and new spark plugs. The engine is timed correctly and I'm getting a solid 90PSI across all four cylinders. And it will not run... /: I am going to leak down test it AGAIN to maybe find where I'm loosing some compression, but it should totally be firing off with what I have. I have no CELs and I am confused. HELP ME PLEAZE!

I'd like to hear what the verdict on your problem was. I'm almost at the point where I feel the only things left to do is dismantle it all again and recheck the head and block for warpage, but rather not until I can justify it. Thanks in advance to anyone who reads this for you help and/or thoughts.

TomCat39

It's highly unlikely you are going to get a response from someone who's last post in the thread was 3 years ago.

Also, the method we use is to create your own thread with all your car details and reference the thread you found, which I have done for you by editting your post.

You can try pm'ing the OP of the other thread, they may get back to you.

If not, then you will get fresh replies assuming you provided all your car details. I can see already the year, make, model and trim are all missing as well as ECU, all you have is your mods aka the motor mini me info. Failure to correct that will pretty much ensure your thread gets closed. Not trying to be harsh, just informing you of the ropes around here.

Also FYI, all vtec head gaskets are mls. The Z6 is a vtec motor. Graphite gaskets are the non vtec from 88-95 if I recall correctly with the TSB.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

90 is not solid. 90 is no where NEAR solid. You did something wrong. Check your mechanical timing, do the leakdown, then get back to us.

joey1320

You should see double that amount of compression, something is definitely wrong.
As posted above, due a leak down test and see where the problem is.

lemontit

Thanks for starting a new thread... So why would this thread say a Y8 gasket is better since its metal, and also why when I went to an auto parts store for a 95 Civic Si headgasket they gave me a composite graphite one? /:

https://honda-tech.com/newreply.php?...eply&p=5852950


I'm not saying that 90 is a solid number to get I know it has to be a minimum of 135psi and good can be anywhere from 150 to 200. I'm saying all cylinders get to exactly 90 PSI, not 85-99 but a solid 90PSI. Like a stated, the timing is definitely correct, so I know the mechanical timing is not an issue. And I've plugged in a second, 100% working, P28 ECU to prove to my self that the electronically control timing wasn't bad as well. I shall do the leakdown test again

joey1320

Is your compression tester working correctly?
Do the leakage test anyways and see but it is weird that they all have the same psi.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

How were the rings broken in upon 1st start up?

ECU's on a cold engine run rich, I just hope you didnt wash the walls.

TomCat39

You have failed to provide all your car details as is required for a tech thread here. I am forced to lock your thread.

As for the head gasket, when I was doing all my research on mini me's awhile back, for a time the Y8 head gasket was a thinner head gasket over the Z6 which bumped compression ratio more thus more power. But now at Honda, the Y8 and the Z6 have the same part number so it's a moot point. I suspect the old Z6 was a 4 layer MLS while the old Y8 was a 3 layer mls. Now I believe they are both a 3 layer mls gasket as the part number now match.

As for your parts store 95 SI being graphite, well, it's not an OEM gasket.

Here is the TSB:




I believe the OEM leak gasket replacement is the 4 layer mls gasket.

You can message me and I will unlock your thread if you wish to comply by providing the year, make, model, trim, ECU and all mods of your car as is required. If not it can stay closed.