Low beam on all the time?
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Low beam on all the time?
hey guys I am just wondering if i could make it so that when i have my head lights on and switch to my high beams to make it so my low beams dont shut off
reason is I find it alot more helpful and alot easier to see with both beams being on and beaing out here in the sticks of nj its helpful or when its pitch black out and animals like to jump out infront of you at anytime
any help will be apprieciated thanks
reason is I find it alot more helpful and alot easier to see with both beams being on and beaing out here in the sticks of nj its helpful or when its pitch black out and animals like to jump out infront of you at anytime
any help will be apprieciated thanks
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Re: Low beam on all the time? (fmrprojects)
Actually they aren't - If you pull back on the light switch bar but don't fully engage the high beams(You don't click it) you'll notice that the High and Low beams are both on. As soon as the High/Low beam switch clicks the low beams go off and you're using just the high beams. As for making them both work at once, I assume all you would need to do is wire a switch before the actual low/high switch on the low side and flip it on when needed with the high beams. How or where you put the switch is up to you, just my views.
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Re: Low beam on all the time? (fmrprojects)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are both on when you high beam</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (pythoner)
well they havent yet and I drive around holding it down whenever i can cause id like to see if im about to hit a racoon or possum that jumps out in front of me so thanks for your concern but im good in that aspect. any other ideas ?
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Re: (Jhonny Ricer)
i would splice a jumper wire from the low beam wire o the high beam wire
i live in the jersey woods too
where are you located at
i live in the jersey woods too
where are you located at
#12
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Re: (Jhonny Ricer)
I know when I had a cd7 and got the jdm blacks that I had 1 low beam and 2 high beams.
I wired the lows and 1 high like normal and sent the other high to a switch. I also had fog lights.
True story while driving in South Dakota on vacation one night I was moving the speed limit of 75 and had lows, 2 highs and fogs on and some idiot tried to pass me. I click off the high and set everything to low with no fogs.
He quickly was out of my radar and I couldn't see him in the rear view anymore in about 2 seconds.
**** was funny.
To answer you. Get a wiring schematic of the lights and you will probably have to get a switch for 12v and manually click the low beams on when in high mode. Or set your lows up to run when the parking lights are on but they may blink when turning. lol.
I wired the lows and 1 high like normal and sent the other high to a switch. I also had fog lights.
True story while driving in South Dakota on vacation one night I was moving the speed limit of 75 and had lows, 2 highs and fogs on and some idiot tried to pass me. I click off the high and set everything to low with no fogs.
He quickly was out of my radar and I couldn't see him in the rear view anymore in about 2 seconds.
**** was funny.
To answer you. Get a wiring schematic of the lights and you will probably have to get a switch for 12v and manually click the low beams on when in high mode. Or set your lows up to run when the parking lights are on but they may blink when turning. lol.
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Re: (sauceja)
thank you sauceja thats actually a really good idea they wouldnt blink though because the blinker is also a seperate filament than the parking lights im going to try the parking idea with a switch so i can shut the off if i dont want them on all the time ill try to find a schematic and let you guys know how things go thanks for the tips
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Just so you know, this is a very bad idea. Modern halogen lamps have been designed with smaller capsules (glass), and to have the filaments burn hotter. As tungsten is dissipated from the filament, the filament will eventually snap from the fragility. This is why coated bulbs burn out faster. The coating traps the heat in, and the filament will get too hot (far hotter than originally designed), and deteriorate at a more rapid rate.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.
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Re: (Eran)
point taken got any ideas on how to make my high beams light up a little closer to the front of my car though?
Modified by Jhonny Ricer at 12:20 AM 2/28/2007
Modified by Jhonny Ricer at 12:20 AM 2/28/2007
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Re: (red_crx_89)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx_89 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would splice a jumper wire from the low beam wire o the high beam wire
i live in the jersey woods too
where are you located at</TD></TR></TABLE>
up in sussex county in a place called stillwater
where are you at?
i live in the jersey woods too
where are you located at</TD></TR></TABLE>
up in sussex county in a place called stillwater
where are you at?
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Re: (pythoner)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pythoner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have them both on you will over heat the bulb burning off any coatings that were there...and the bulbs will over heat and burn out in a hurry
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhh, not really. I do this all the time, although it's a pain in the ***. I just hold the stick back without clicking it for more light and I've had my Silverstars in for over a year with no problems. I would also like to know how to get them to stay on without just holding it. That gets tiresome quickly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhh, not really. I do this all the time, although it's a pain in the ***. I just hold the stick back without clicking it for more light and I've had my Silverstars in for over a year with no problems. I would also like to know how to get them to stay on without just holding it. That gets tiresome quickly.
#19
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Re: (Eran)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know, this is a very bad idea. Modern halogen lamps have been designed with smaller capsules (glass), and to have the filaments burn hotter. As tungsten is dissipated from the filament, the filament will eventually snap from the fragility. This is why coated bulbs burn out faster. The coating traps the heat in, and the filament will get too hot (far hotter than originally designed), and deteriorate at a more rapid rate.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point but wouldn't a relay hold it to a strict 12 volts and be safe??? Especially if wired by constant 12 with swith in cab??
Just curious and trying to help.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point but wouldn't a relay hold it to a strict 12 volts and be safe??? Especially if wired by constant 12 with swith in cab??
Just curious and trying to help.
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Re: (Sol X)
im not sure though im going to do a little bit more research before making a decision and when i decide what to do ill let you guys also wondering know what it is and ill show you what i did in case you would like to try yourselfs and how the end result is
what im thinking is while i doo my front end conversion in about a week or so is put in the city light sockets i got and see if they help any im not sure though ill figure something out and keep you guys posted
also i was driving out to town today and looked at my speedometer the maintnance recquired light below the speedometer had gone red so while i was out i got oil and a filter and did an oil change which it was due for but the light is still red what does this light turn red for is it something serious? help apprieciated
#22
Re: (Jhonny Ricer)
just so you know, you don't live in the sticks if you live in NJ, try living in Vermont, now thats the sticks. Try worrying about deer, skunks, possums, squirrels, cats, dogs, coyotes, trailer park kids etc... I don't need any extra light when i have my high beams on, so i don't know why you'd want to have both beams on.
As for the maintenace required light, i'm figuring you have an EK because thats what i have and i have the maintenance required thing, my buddy had a eg and it didn't have that.
as long as it's an EK there should be a black plastic piece on the cluster about the size of a key. if you press that in it will reset the "red light" which is just a red piece of paper i believe, and turn it to green.
This will work as long as it's not the check engine light.
As for the maintenace required light, i'm figuring you have an EK because thats what i have and i have the maintenance required thing, my buddy had a eg and it didn't have that.
as long as it's an EK there should be a black plastic piece on the cluster about the size of a key. if you press that in it will reset the "red light" which is just a red piece of paper i believe, and turn it to green.
This will work as long as it's not the check engine light.
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Re: (Jhonny Ricer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
put in the city light sockets i got and see if they help any im not sure though ill figure something out and keep you guys posted : </TD></TR></TABLE>
City lights will not help the output of your headlights at all because they are not made to project light like the headlights are and through my experience they will not help visibility at all.
put in the city light sockets i got and see if they help any im not sure though ill figure something out and keep you guys posted : </TD></TR></TABLE>
City lights will not help the output of your headlights at all because they are not made to project light like the headlights are and through my experience they will not help visibility at all.
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Re: (jsilva)
yea i kinda figured that aftrer i posted iunno i just like more visibility
as for not living in the sticks come down to sussex bud besides massive amounts of snow i have the same exact problems i live right in the foothills of the appalachian mountains so yea i know all about possum, raccoons, coyotes, scarce wolves, mountain lions, bob cats, deer, black bear, retarted kids, dogs with no leashes, icy roads, retarted adults, youve only got me beat on one thing bud and that is the moose up there so yea i know wat you deal with not to mention where i live havent even gotten past dirt roads yet closest paved roads are 5 miles in all directions if not more trust me i know sticks hell the closest grocery store of any kind is 30 minutes away from my house and i live in the center of a 30 acre lot my grandfather used to farm on northern country boy right here
and thank you my light is back to green
as for not living in the sticks come down to sussex bud besides massive amounts of snow i have the same exact problems i live right in the foothills of the appalachian mountains so yea i know all about possum, raccoons, coyotes, scarce wolves, mountain lions, bob cats, deer, black bear, retarted kids, dogs with no leashes, icy roads, retarted adults, youve only got me beat on one thing bud and that is the moose up there so yea i know wat you deal with not to mention where i live havent even gotten past dirt roads yet closest paved roads are 5 miles in all directions if not more trust me i know sticks hell the closest grocery store of any kind is 30 minutes away from my house and i live in the center of a 30 acre lot my grandfather used to farm on northern country boy right here
and thank you my light is back to green
#25
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Re: (pythoner)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pythoner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have them both on you will over heat the bulb burning off any coatings that were there...and the bulbs will over heat and burn out in a hurry
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know, this is a very bad idea. Modern halogen lamps have been designed with smaller capsules (glass), and to have the filaments burn hotter. As tungsten is dissipated from the filament, the filament will eventually snap from the fragility. This is why coated bulbs burn out faster. The coating traps the heat in, and the filament will get too hot (far hotter than originally designed), and deteriorate at a more rapid rate.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ehhh not really. I had an '00 Civic for 3 years and only had to change headlight bulbs once. I worked nights back then and commuted 20 miles one way through a deer-infested area (the only reason I had to change headlight bulbs at all was because I hit a deer one night and smashed both headlights). On every trip to/from work, I did the same thing that both of these guys are doing:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well they havent yet and I drive around holding it down whenever i can cause id like to see if im about to hit a racoon or possum that jumps out in front of me</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhh, not really. I do this all the time, although it's a pain in the ***. I just hold the stick back without clicking it for more light and I've had my Silverstars in for over a year with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never had any bulb problems while manually keeping both filaments lit on OEM Honda bulbs.
EK headlights are awful. When you have the lows on, you obviously have a limited range of vision - but when you switch to the highs, you can't see anything up close because the lows turn off and the light is spread out too much. It's shitty engineering. My 1991 CRX with separate bulbs for high and low has much better lighting.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know, this is a very bad idea. Modern halogen lamps have been designed with smaller capsules (glass), and to have the filaments burn hotter. As tungsten is dissipated from the filament, the filament will eventually snap from the fragility. This is why coated bulbs burn out faster. The coating traps the heat in, and the filament will get too hot (far hotter than originally designed), and deteriorate at a more rapid rate.
What you are doing is going to do so much worse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ehhh not really. I had an '00 Civic for 3 years and only had to change headlight bulbs once. I worked nights back then and commuted 20 miles one way through a deer-infested area (the only reason I had to change headlight bulbs at all was because I hit a deer one night and smashed both headlights). On every trip to/from work, I did the same thing that both of these guys are doing:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well they havent yet and I drive around holding it down whenever i can cause id like to see if im about to hit a racoon or possum that jumps out in front of me</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhh, not really. I do this all the time, although it's a pain in the ***. I just hold the stick back without clicking it for more light and I've had my Silverstars in for over a year with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never had any bulb problems while manually keeping both filaments lit on OEM Honda bulbs.
EK headlights are awful. When you have the lows on, you obviously have a limited range of vision - but when you switch to the highs, you can't see anything up close because the lows turn off and the light is spread out too much. It's shitty engineering. My 1991 CRX with separate bulbs for high and low has much better lighting.