MeCrObS

I have a OBD1 GSR in an EG and ever since i got the motor running there has been a loud ticking constantly at idle and up to about 5K(but i probably just can't hear it after that bc the entire engine gets loud then lol). I did a Valve Adjustment and nothing happened, ticking was still there. It still ticks to this day and it just recently dawned on me to check my Lost Motion Assembly(But i haven't yet). My question is. When the LMA gets worn out or go bad would it cause my CEL to throw code 23?(Knock Sensor). Because I've checked my wiring a million times and i highly doubt the KS is bad. Also would they cause any kind of hesitation(Or feel a little jumpy/wanting to go faster but kinda slacks off and jumps back on it again) when on Half Open Throttle and Accelerating? Because i just recently fixed everything in my car and i dont have any problems/CEL's other than Code 23, the ticking noise and the accelerating problem(Which i've read that a Bad LMA can cause funky/different/off RPM noise). Any input is helpfull and appreciated. Thanks in Advanced!

MeCrObS

Bump

MeCrObS

22 Views and no input? I hope someone knows something...

MeCrObS

Bump TTT. C'mon, this isn't a typical stupid non researched question people. Help me out please!

98civdx

I very highly doubt bad LMA's would cause the knock sensor to freak out.

Replace the LMA's if you feel they are bad, but, remember, these cars DO click and tick, it's just the way they are.

My Y7 is loud as hell, but, valve lash is near the tigher OE spec.

MeCrObS

Yeah that's what i was hoping to hear. I don't know anyone with a teg or a DOHC to compare to. so thanks. i did however make a video of it running on another Forum and they said it was way to loud and not normal. And i've done a valve adjustment to spec. But i was really counting on a solution to my KS CEL lol. Oh well. Do you know for sure that the LMA's couldn't tip off the KS? Not doubting you but i would just like a definite yes or no.

Thanks

98civdx

Try going to the tighter end of spec.

I don't know for sure, and I can't say that it won't. I know a few people that had needed to replace the LMA's, and none had a knock sensor issue.

Is that the only code you have?

I would deffinetly fix the LMA's first, if that fixxes the KS issue, cool. lol If not, try swapping out the knock sensor.

MeCrObS

Yeah thats the only CEL i have. i just recently fixed everything else lol. i will replace them just for peace of mind and to rule out as an issue. hopefully that damn KS CEL goes away. If not then i"ll just shell out $180 for a new one. if that doesn't work idk what the hell could be causing it.

98civdx

You could just have it deleted.

MeCrObS

i could but i would rather have everything right and working correctly. Plus the KS helps when it isn't throwing BS CEL's. But Believe me i've thought about doing that lol

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Does the tapping sound resemble a pissed off typewriter?

Did you test the KS as per the FSM to rule out bad sensor or wiring?

MeCrObS

haha best description ever. and yes it does. maybe not a pissed off typewriter but an aggravated one yes. its not my rod bearings if thats what your going for bc i checked those already and they are fine. But please do explain...

MeCrObS

Not sure what you mean by FSM but I've checked my wiring a billion times.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Not bearings, but when I thought mine was bad LMA's, because I had done valve lash 2 times, obviously I wasn't doing it right. Got out the Factory Service Manual(FSM), can be downloaded, just google it, and redid my valve lash and low and behold the angry typewriter noise went away and have never had a problem since with my B16.

MeCrObS

Hmm... I'll definitely give it a try before buy/replacing LMA's. What was the spec you did yours to? Mine were set to basic .006/.007. I forget now which one is intake and which is exhaust but thats the stock spec is it not? I will read up on the FSM though.

98civdx

intake valve lash specs: .006
exhaust valve lash specs: .008

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

As per the FSM
Intake .006-.007
Exhaust .007-.008

I went to the minimum on each cam.

98civdx

I would as well, double check them before you button it back up, then start it.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

I left the feeler gauge in between the cam and rocker, loosened the keeper nut and tightened the valve lash until it was snug to get the feeler gauge in and out. Then left the feeler in place while the keeper nut was tightened to spec. Removed the feeler and did the next valve.

MeCrObS

Then i had the same spec's you did. Should i try it again? I Checked and Double Checked all my clearances before i put everything back together though. I'll check them again once i pull the valve cover off to Check my LMA's. If they are loose i'll try doing them again. If they are to spec then i will check my LMA's. I just might go and do this now. Look for a post alter in the day.

MeCrObS

That's exactly what i did lol. I'm gonna check them out later today and then maybe if i feel up to it check my LMA's

stock95coupe

Have you checked your distributor? The bronze bushing inside it can wear out. It will make some weird clackity-clack sounds on and off until it warms up a lot. Dizzy sensor issues can also cause various unrelated CEL's.

For lash, I usually stick in a leaf the thickest it calls for (largest gap), snug the nut so I I almost can't remove the gauge, then check with the next size down (0.001" smaller). It usually is gapped perfect.

MeCrObS

Yeah there's nothing wrong with my Dizzy. Just replaced it. and the noise was there before and after i did that.

As for your Lash tip thanks. I will do this once i do my valve lash again just to rule it out. Will post my solution if i ever find it lol.

Thanks for all the help everone.

hyperblu

gsr injectors click pretty loudly... just so you know.

MeCrObS

Yeah I've heard that. But I've had someone tell me that if doesn't sound like a normal GSR sound.

Here's a fresh video i just took of it running for anyone else's thoughts

http://s627.photobucket.com/albums/t...904_183532.mp4