B serious

iTrader: (1)

Ok...so I tired the search feature, and I'm a little confused on the subject.

Someone tell me if I'm going in the right direction here:

1.) Jump the service connector (2 wire blue plug by the ECU) while the car is off.
2.) Turn the car on
3.) Set timing to 16degrees (+/- 2 Degrees) BTDC

I just put a new distributor on and the car feels a little sluggish at low RPMs. I also replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, and O2 sensor as part of a 100k tune up (T-belt and water pump when it warms up outside). I know it's a B16A and all....but this thing BOGS LIKE CRAZY!!! I hope it's timing. The CEL comes on at times...IIRC it's code 1033. O2 sensor, or fuel system running too rich/lean. It turns itself off and comes back on. The car feels weak. Maybe i'll try cleaning the fuel injectors....or replacing them with known good ones or something.

Probot

i know this might sound stupid...but my old y8 motor was doing the same thing..throwin 02 sensor CEL and car ran like ****, bogging down and everything...found out had a bad CAT, replaced it..ran like new.

is the secondary 02 or primary?


EDIT: this being if you're timing is correct obviously


Modified by Probot at 10:50 AM 1/28/2008

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this might sound stupid...but my old y8 motor was doing the same thing..throwin 02 sensor CEL and car ran like ****, bogging down and everything...found out had a bad CAT, replaced it..ran like new.

is the 2ndary 02 or primary?


EDIT: this being if you're timing is correct obviously</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's for the primary.

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's for the primary.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm, i guess try to replace the sensor and see what happens (not like you didn't contemplate that already).

mine happened to be the secondary sensor. sorry this didn't help

bump

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmm, i guess try to replace the sensor and see what happens (not like you didn't contemplate that already).

mine happened to be the secondary sensor. sorry this didn't help

bump</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just replaced it with a Denso universal. I know it was plugged in right and everything. Partially because I did the work

Also, because the CEL wasn't on till a few days after the install

B serious

iTrader: (1)

someone better reply. AFTER EVERYTHING I'VE DONE FOR YOU PUNKS....

silentbeatz

i think the timing is not adjustable. does the distributor rotate when you loosen the 3 bolts?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentbeatz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the timing is not adjustable. does the distributor rotate when you loosen the 3 bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The timing is most definately adjustable. The distributor does rotate when you loosen the bolts. The car does run differently when you adjust the distributor.

Padawan

Your method of setting the timing is correct, so assuming you are using the timing light properly, that isn't your problem.

Try swapping your secondary O2 to the primary location and see if that helps.

BTW, because you had to ask the proper way to set ignition timing, I have to remove my quote from your signature. Fair is fair.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your method of setting the timing is correct, so assuming you are using the timing light properly, that isn't your problem.

Try swapping your secondary O2 to the primary location and see if that helps.

BTW, because you had to ask the proper way to set ignition timing, I have to remove my quote from your signature. Fair is fair. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I'm gonna try setting the timing tomorrow. I haven't had a chance yet. I was just trying to get all the info together before I got any tools out.

Thanks, though!

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks, though! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure thing. There's also a decent DIY for timing here: http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...g.php

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, because you had to ask the proper way to set ignition timing, I have to remove my quote from your signature. Fair is fair. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What the?!! lol man....now I gotta get someone else reputable to say it

OnePointFive

sweet baby jesus, B serious is entirely correct!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet baby jesus, B serious is entirely correct!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, Ricky! You know who this is, right?

OnePointFive

duh.

Dramier

DTC 0133 is O2 sensor slow response, not o2 sensor failure.

There is a TSB on this, #99-049, which states that if this code is stored, then you have to check the freeze data and see if the values are within a certain range. If they are then the PCM is too sensitive to driver input and must be replaced.

Needless to say, without a PGM tester or HDS, there's no way you can evaluate this condition.

Here's what you CAN do... Reset the ECU to clear the code. Jump the service connector and drive the car at 55mph steady for 10 minutes or so.. If no CEL comes on, then it was just an intermittent failure. If it comes back on, then you've possibly got a bad O2, or possibly an exhaust leak.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DTC 0133 is O2 sensor slow response, not o2 sensor failure.

There is a TSB on this, #99-049, which states that if this code is stored, then you have to check the freeze data and see if the values are within a certain range. If they are then the PCM is too sensitive to driver input and must be replaced.

Needless to say, without a PGM tester or HDS, there's no way you can evaluate this condition.

Here's what you CAN do... Reset the ECU to clear the code. Jump the service connector and drive the car at 55mph steady for 10 minutes or so.. If no CEL comes on, then it was just an intermittent failure. If it comes back on, then you've possibly got a bad O2, or possibly an exhaust leak.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I have since replaced the O2 sensor. When I took the old one out, it was pretty well char broiled. The car SOUNDS like it's misfiring only when it gets warm, but feels perfectly fine. I think it's just the tone of the stupid exhaust that's on there or something. It came with an I/H/E setup. I wanna get rid of the exhaust and possibly the intake. The car always sounded like it was misfiring, BTW...ever since I bought it. I dont think it is, however. A CEL has never come on for a misfire, and the car drives perfectly fine. It's a burbling sound.

For some reason, BEFORE I replaced the O2 sensor, the light just turned off by itself. I floored it to get onto an onramp..and it just shut off. Later that day, as luck would have it, my distributor died.

I installed the new distributor and drove around. The CEL came on again. I have cleared it once, and it came back on AGAIN for a 3rd time. I have a suspicion that the gas cap is not sealing correctly. I have to make my way to an autozone to have the code read. I've been WAY busy during the day time. My days are between 12 and 18 hrs. long. Engineering school + work FTL.

I jumped the service connector to adjust my timing. The CEL was off at the time. When I jumped the connector, the CEL came on and stayed on. When I took the paperclip out, the CEL turned off.

The car got around 25mpg mixed suburbs and highway when the timing was just set by ear. It gets 28-29ish now that the timing is correct. However....when I set the timing (with a gun), it wanted the distributor almost fully advanced. Maybe the timing belt is off a tooth or something. I'm planning on a new T-belt and water pump as soon as it warms up anyway.

Dramier

Yeah, that particular code, 1033, will turn itself off if the conditions aren't met.

Some DTC's progress from "temporary" codes to "Permanent" codes if certain conditions are met. Anyway, the stuff you are describing, fuel cap, etc, could definitely cause you some problems, and set a CEL as well.

Let me know if there's anything I can do to help ya out.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, that particular code, 1033, will turn itself off if the conditions aren't met.

Some DTC's progress from "temporary" codes to "Permanent" codes if certain conditions are met. Anyway, the stuff you are describing, fuel cap, etc, could definitely cause you some problems, and set a CEL as well.

Let me know if there's anything I can do to help ya out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You've been very helpful so far. Glad to have some real techs on here lol. I have a few friends that work at the 2 different local honda dealers. They're more "summer friends" lol. I haven't talked to them in a while. I feel bad going over there to have them diagnose my car after not talking to them in a million years. They're usually pretty busy as well.

Dramier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You've been very helpful so far. Glad to have some real techs on here lol. I have a few friends that work at the 2 different local honda dealers. They're more "summer friends" lol. I haven't talked to them in a while. I feel bad going over there to have them diagnose my car after not talking to them in a million years. They're usually pretty busy as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Heh, I guess it depends on their attitude. I'll help somebody that stops in when nothing's wrong just to shoot the breeze, even if it's only a minute or two. But folks that only show up when they need something usually only get one handout from me.

Speaking of which, since you ruined my newbie bashing over there in the Vtec thread, I should be showing you my middle finger...

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Heh, I guess it depends on their attitude. I'll help somebody that stops in when nothing's wrong just to shoot the breeze, even if it's only a minute or two. But folks that only show up when they need something usually only get one handout from me.

Speaking of which, since you ruined my newbie bashing over there in the Vtec thread, I should be showing you my middle finger... </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol they're usually pretty nice. I always get free oil filters and discount parts. I just dont wanna wear out my welcome. I talk to one of the guys all the time in the summer. We play ball or hang out at parties or whatever. There's just nothing to do in the winter and I become a hermit. He never seems to have an issue when I come over, but they just O.G.'d him (he's a REAL grease monkey now. No longer an oil change tech.) and he seems pretty busy. Since he works on book time now, I feel bad bugging him at work.

lol VTEC thread FTW.