Jimi Hondrix

1998 Civic EX coupe stock (D16Y8), AT, 148k miles.

Looks my daughter's car might need a HG replacement. Here's a related thread I posted recently: https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-loss-3246830/ After a week of daily use the coolant also needs to be refilled daily (about 2-3 cups). I intend to have the coolant mix checked today at a local radiator shop to verify,
The car seems to be running fine otherwise..doesn't overheat, no sweet exhaust smell, idles and drives well under load, oil has no milky appearance.

If, the coolant test verifies that a head gasket is needed I have a few questions I hope to have answered:
1) Will a machine shop typically pressure test the head and inspect for cracks, along with milling it if it is warped?
2) If there isn't a crack and it is holding pressure is a valve job mandatory?
3) Should I buy new head bolts or other necessary fasteners?
4) Should I use this sealant: Permatex 81878 | Liquid Gasketing & Silicone Sealants and this gasket: 12251-P2J-004 - Honda Parts Now
5) If the current head is cracked should I pull one out of salvage yard or get on online?

All comments and suggestions appreciated.

Jimi Hondrix

Head gasket failure confirmed ... blue liquid turns yellow...now the depression sets in.

tony_2018

Chill, **** happens but we all tried to avoid it. I've been there with my sisters integra.

Yes the machine shop can do all that you ask: check valve seats, hot tank, deck head. You just need to make sure they are taking off minimum amt needed to make the head straight, or true.

You also want to check the block itself for warpage as well and that will require a straight edge and feeler gauges. Helms manual can show you how to check for warpage and see if its within spec.

RodWolf19

The pressure test and magnaflux crack test should be standard, but make sure you ask for it.
A 3 angle valve job is highly recommended and some machine shops include it in a "head job" quote. I would say go ahead and see what it'll cost you.
Head gasket goes on dry, make sure both surfaces are clean and dry. Hondabond is recommended for any other gasket requiring sealant.
Yes to the new bolts.
Maybe somebody else will chime in on that particular gasket, I'm not the most versed in specific applications concerning these motors.
And yes, a junkyard is a good option, pull the head and take it to be pressure tested and checked for cracks, possible valve job. This will be the more cost efficient.
Again I'm not very well versed on online options for heads on these motors.
Good luck on the job.

tony_2018

That part # is for the ex d16y8 so OP should be fine. If you're ordering online and you received the part damaged, or bent, do not use.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

It's not so bad... if I can change a head gasket, so can you!

TomCat39

Also, since a D16Y8 it already has the MLS head gasket, block and head surface clean up will be pretty easy unlike the 88-95 non vtec graphite gaskets..... Those things take hours and hours to clean up.

Jimi Hondrix

I likes my bitches (cars) making me money not costing me dough ya dig?

Before this happened I was a rear main seal away from having this car straight..now it's another set back.. not the car's fault in anyway..this one's on me as I should've inspected all hoses better soon after I purchased it. However, it is what it is. My son's friend said he will do both the head gasket and rear main seal for $300 labor (and a 50 dollar tip) so I'm going to let him have at it. He has the done a few of both repairs and although I am somewhat motivated to do the head gasket,,,I'm not at all interested in doing the rear main seal, Hopefully, the valves are in good shape.
Thanks for all the replies so far.. it helps just having terminology that you guys have provided when I talk to machine shops, as well as the guidance.

Former User

Jimi, aside from possible machine shop work, do you plan to replace the head gasket yourself? If so, please create a D16Y8 Head Gasket DIY with many nice pictures.

Edit: Take pics of son's friend doing HG and rear seal? Replacing the rear seal is relatively easy after the transmission is removed.

Jimi Hondrix

Will do Ron.

I called about six automotive machine shops and they're all similar in their pricing... $80 total for cleaning, crack inspection, pressure test and resurfacing.3 angle valve jobs ranged between $150 to $225. They all said a magnaflux crack test is only possible with a cast iron head and that close visual inspection is about the only way to catch an aluminum head crack. Most of them said that they rarely have seen a Honda head crack or block warp.. Turns out a Napa store about 20 minutes drive away has the lowest pricing for resurfacing and valve job. If, i go the used route a pulled head is around $100-125 with 90 day warranty/refund. U-pull is $65 with 30 day warranty/refund. Resurfaced + valve job and hardware included sold on e-bay and other sites is between $275-325.

At this point I am leaning towards a pulled used head that I will bring to a machine shop to have checked for warping, cracks and leakage. I will use new head bolts, thread chaser, replace the rest of the radiator/coolant hoses, new thermostat and and take my time to get it as right as possible. Looks like I will do the HG replacement myself or do together with my son's friend to ensure proper steps are followed, I have been watching several videos and I like how this guy goes about it: