Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners!
12-30-2006, 10:50 PM
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Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners!
I initally signed up for this website to solve the same problem so many people are having, I delt with the issue of Idle fluctuations, Bouncing Idles, IACV and Engine dying out at Idle many times. To be honest I feel for those who have been having the same problem, and the only answer we all get is Vacuum leaks or bad/dirty IACV's. Now I do believe that this does solve the problem for a very small percentage of people but how about the rest of us? I drive a 99-00 Civic which if the car Idled correctly it might as well be show room material. I have done every thing... It is an automatic and will bounce and occasionally throw an IACV code about once a week and I reset it. It only Idle like crap in park and nuetral, and idles at about 1100 while in gear(A lil high!) I have tried everything everyone has recommended and I do thak everyone for the ideas, but after all the obvious things, NEW IACV and about a grand in other parts and vistis to the dealer and other garages, no solution can be found! I ask everyone who is having these problems lets do something about it and stop that annoying idle!!! I have heard that Honda has known about this issue for a long time, yet nothing has been done for their so very loyal customers!I love Honda's and Would never buy any other car but come on this is a bad problem to have, on a car that will drive forever!
12-31-2006, 06:01 AM
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what do you expect everyone to do?
lets to go the honda factory and hold up picket signes and protest till they stop making hondas all together, than the bad idles will all go away and we can all drive nissans and be happy
lets to go the honda factory and hold up picket signes and protest till they stop making hondas all together, than the bad idles will all go away and we can all drive nissans and be happy
12-31-2006, 07:26 AM
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are you effing kidding me? theres about 100 different solutions! replace your effing PCV valve and oil filter, then clean out your IACV with deep creep, problem solved
if you have a FITV then replace your throttle body with one that doesnt have it (one with only 1 hole on the inside instead of 2)
boom, solved. now can you
STFUN00B
if you have a FITV then replace your throttle body with one that doesnt have it (one with only 1 hole on the inside instead of 2)
boom, solved. now can you
STFUN00B
12-31-2006, 07:35 AM
#5
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (whal3_p3nis)
In order to solve this problem you have to learn exactly how the idle system and parts work on your honda.
Now, obviously we know the the IACV regulates air into the engine @ idle via an electric motor controlling the size of the opening. We also know that under cold engine temps (open loop ) that the ecu commands a higher idle for oil pressure and warm up reasons. Now once the car reaches temperature and goes into closed loop feedback, the engine should remain at its target idle 7-800 rpm. Anytime the rpm goes higher then this with no throttle simply means the engine is getting extra air from something. This is why people are quick to say vacuum leak. Anywhere between the cylinder head and throttle plate there is heavy vaccum at idle (18-22 in usually) So when a gasket is cracked or a hose, o-ring or anything else is leaking extra air gets through and engine speed climbs.
Now, ok you say then why does the idle bounce up and down? What happens here is that the ecu sees rpm go high with no change in voltage from the throttle position sensor. That sensor is located on the backside of the throttle body and tells the ecu exactly how far the throttle plate is open. Once the rpm exceeds the ecu's acceptable range (somewhere around 1100 rpm..I forget the exact number) it will then cut off the fuel injectors to slow the engine down. Thats when you get the surging idle.
So besides a vacuum leak, what else can cause this? Well, like I said....anything that allows extra air to enter. Sometimes IACV can stick and not close far enough to keep the idle low. This is maybe why it was suggested and replaced on your car. Lets hope it was a honda part and not a poor quality aftermarket one. I have seen throttle cables too tightly adjusted and constantly tugging it open a tad. there is alo the issue of the fast idle thermal valve, which if equipped will be under the throttle body with two small antifreeze hoses attached to it. This part I admit have never looked at carefully and not sure exactly how much control or purpose it has. I usually just keep and run the ones without them.
Its only common for hondas to idle poorly when there is a problem in this system. Make sure your intake manifold and throtttle body are tightly sealed up and there is not any extra air getting in...not rocket science here, just not many people seem to fully understand where to look and how to fix it.
Now, obviously we know the the IACV regulates air into the engine @ idle via an electric motor controlling the size of the opening. We also know that under cold engine temps (open loop ) that the ecu commands a higher idle for oil pressure and warm up reasons. Now once the car reaches temperature and goes into closed loop feedback, the engine should remain at its target idle 7-800 rpm. Anytime the rpm goes higher then this with no throttle simply means the engine is getting extra air from something. This is why people are quick to say vacuum leak. Anywhere between the cylinder head and throttle plate there is heavy vaccum at idle (18-22 in usually) So when a gasket is cracked or a hose, o-ring or anything else is leaking extra air gets through and engine speed climbs.
Now, ok you say then why does the idle bounce up and down? What happens here is that the ecu sees rpm go high with no change in voltage from the throttle position sensor. That sensor is located on the backside of the throttle body and tells the ecu exactly how far the throttle plate is open. Once the rpm exceeds the ecu's acceptable range (somewhere around 1100 rpm..I forget the exact number) it will then cut off the fuel injectors to slow the engine down. Thats when you get the surging idle.
So besides a vacuum leak, what else can cause this? Well, like I said....anything that allows extra air to enter. Sometimes IACV can stick and not close far enough to keep the idle low. This is maybe why it was suggested and replaced on your car. Lets hope it was a honda part and not a poor quality aftermarket one. I have seen throttle cables too tightly adjusted and constantly tugging it open a tad. there is alo the issue of the fast idle thermal valve, which if equipped will be under the throttle body with two small antifreeze hoses attached to it. This part I admit have never looked at carefully and not sure exactly how much control or purpose it has. I usually just keep and run the ones without them.
Its only common for hondas to idle poorly when there is a problem in this system. Make sure your intake manifold and throtttle body are tightly sealed up and there is not any extra air getting in...not rocket science here, just not many people seem to fully understand where to look and how to fix it.
12-31-2006, 07:45 AM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (hondastrtracr)
in my opinion this isnt a never ending problem for honda owners. the never ending problem is that hondas just keep getting stolen. 
12-31-2006, 08:33 AM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (Vtec_Dragun)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec_Dragun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in my opinion this isnt a never ending problem for honda owners. the never ending problem is that hondas just keep getting stolen. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 I am much more concerned about the theft problem than an idle problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>x2 I am much more concerned about the theft problem than an idle problem.
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12-31-2006, 08:36 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (dr92cx)
Its a common problem, but it's easily/cheaply solved and reoccurs once in every 10-15 years. There is a whole thread dedicated to fixing it. SEARCH
12-31-2006, 09:41 AM
#9
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (hondastrtracr)
Your 99-00 Civic rolled off the showroom floor idling like a champ - let's not blame Honda.
Is this car stock? No...what mods? When did this problem crop up? After you did some maintenance or tried cleaning something? Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body? Or perhaps the TPS stop screw?
Runnerdown has given great advice too.
Is this car stock? No...what mods? When did this problem crop up? After you did some maintenance or tried cleaning something? Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body? Or perhaps the TPS stop screw?
Runnerdown has given great advice too.
12-31-2006, 04:05 PM
#11
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (Runnerdown)
Nice reply Runnerdown,
The only thing I might add is setting the TPS for the proper voltage (4.5 Vdc) when it is at the idle position. This may help if it has changed due to wear/removal/replacement.
The only thing I might add is setting the TPS for the proper voltage (4.5 Vdc) when it is at the idle position. This may help if it has changed due to wear/removal/replacement.
12-31-2006, 04:28 PM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (tpr)
Not doing anything will make the problem continue. You can post and search all you want. Opening the engine bay and doing something will fix the problem. I had some idle problems here is what i did...
Cleaned out the TB, changed oil, changed pcv valve, adjusted throttle cable(correctly), it's easy to adjust it wrong making the problem worse. And replaced hoses that looked bad.
Idles like a champ.
Cleaned out the TB, changed oil, changed pcv valve, adjusted throttle cable(correctly), it's easy to adjust it wrong making the problem worse. And replaced hoses that looked bad.
Idles like a champ.
12-31-2006, 11:00 PM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (Runnerdown)
Originally Posted by Runnerdown
In order to solve this problem you have to learn exactly how the idle system and parts work on your honda.
Now, obviously we know the the IACV regulates air into the engine @ idle via an electric motor controlling the size of the opening. We also know that under cold engine temps (open loop ) that the ecu commands a higher idle for oil pressure and warm up reasons. Now once the car reaches temperature and goes into closed loop feedback, the engine should remain at its target idle 7-800 rpm. Anytime the rpm goes higher then this with no throttle simply means the engine is getting extra air from something. This is why people are quick to say vacuum leak. Anywhere between the cylinder head and throttle plate there is heavy vaccum at idle (18-22 in usually) So when a gasket is cracked or a hose, o-ring or anything else is leaking extra air gets through and engine speed climbs.
Now, ok you say then why does the idle bounce up and down? What happens here is that the ecu sees rpm go high with no change in voltage from the throttle position sensor. That sensor is located on the backside of the throttle body and tells the ecu exactly how far the throttle plate is open. Once the rpm exceeds the ecu's acceptable range (somewhere around 1100 rpm..I forget the exact number) it will then cut off the fuel injectors to slow the engine down. Thats when you get the surging idle.
So besides a vacuum leak, what else can cause this? Well, like I said....anything that allows extra air to enter. Sometimes IACV can stick and not close far enough to keep the idle low. This is maybe why it was suggested and replaced on your car. Lets hope it was a honda part and not a poor quality aftermarket one. I have seen throttle cables too tightly adjusted and constantly tugging it open a tad. there is alo the issue of the fast idle thermal valve, which if equipped will be under the throttle body with two small antifreeze hoses attached to it. This part I admit have never looked at carefully and not sure exactly how much control or purpose it has. I usually just keep and run the ones without them.
Its only common for hondas to idle poorly when there is a problem in this system. Make sure your intake manifold and throtttle body are tightly sealed up and there is not any extra air getting in...not rocket science here, just not many people seem to fully understand where to look and how to fix it.
Now, obviously we know the the IACV regulates air into the engine @ idle via an electric motor controlling the size of the opening. We also know that under cold engine temps (open loop ) that the ecu commands a higher idle for oil pressure and warm up reasons. Now once the car reaches temperature and goes into closed loop feedback, the engine should remain at its target idle 7-800 rpm. Anytime the rpm goes higher then this with no throttle simply means the engine is getting extra air from something. This is why people are quick to say vacuum leak. Anywhere between the cylinder head and throttle plate there is heavy vaccum at idle (18-22 in usually) So when a gasket is cracked or a hose, o-ring or anything else is leaking extra air gets through and engine speed climbs.
Now, ok you say then why does the idle bounce up and down? What happens here is that the ecu sees rpm go high with no change in voltage from the throttle position sensor. That sensor is located on the backside of the throttle body and tells the ecu exactly how far the throttle plate is open. Once the rpm exceeds the ecu's acceptable range (somewhere around 1100 rpm..I forget the exact number) it will then cut off the fuel injectors to slow the engine down. Thats when you get the surging idle.
So besides a vacuum leak, what else can cause this? Well, like I said....anything that allows extra air to enter. Sometimes IACV can stick and not close far enough to keep the idle low. This is maybe why it was suggested and replaced on your car. Lets hope it was a honda part and not a poor quality aftermarket one. I have seen throttle cables too tightly adjusted and constantly tugging it open a tad. there is alo the issue of the fast idle thermal valve, which if equipped will be under the throttle body with two small antifreeze hoses attached to it. This part I admit have never looked at carefully and not sure exactly how much control or purpose it has. I usually just keep and run the ones without them.
Its only common for hondas to idle poorly when there is a problem in this system. Make sure your intake manifold and throtttle body are tightly sealed up and there is not any extra air getting in...not rocket science here, just not many people seem to fully understand where to look and how to fix it.
Everything you said is correct. If the idle is climbing, air is getting in period. It's either via a vacuum leak, or an "idle control" system that is allowing bypass air in. The two idle control systems are the IACV and the thermo valve.
The thermo valve is actually super simple. It's a unit that expands when heated by coolant (i.e. the coolant lines that run to the thermo valve housing). A shaft and a valve is essentially connected to the unit that expands. Once expanded the valve shuts thus cutting off bypass air to the manifold.
The thermo valve uses the hole on the lower left (when facing the throttle body) inside the tip of the throttle body. When your coolant temp is below "operating" that hole should be pulling a vacuum. This is allowing extra air in until the motor warms up. Once your coolant comes up to temp, the unit expands and the valve shuts. Therefore, if your lower hole in the throttle body has vacuum after the motor is warm, that's a problem.
You have to disassemble the unit underneath the throttle body and identify the problem. Mostly it seems the seal for the valve comes unscrewed. This round ring should NOT be screwed on all the way. You want it to NOT be sealed when cold, then sealed once warm. It's a pretty straightforward unit.
I think I am going to have to do a write up for Honda-techers because this is certainly a common issue for alot of you. I was once one of those people so I know how it is. It really just requires you have an understanding of the system though, and once you do you'll be able to repair it.
For those of you going to dealers and they can't fix your car, don't be surprised. The dealer techs aren't the honda wizards some make them out to be. They are great at changing timing belts and doing recall repairs, but very few of them are very good at true troubleshooting. I know several dealer techs and my knowledge far surpasses theirs in many areas.
01-01-2007, 03:54 AM
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondastrtracr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drive a 99-00 Civic which if the car Idled correctly it might as well be show room material. I have done every thing... It is an automatic</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, this started real well. You said everyone should understand the idle system...then you got to a point that you didn't understand.
Everything you said is correct. If the idle is climbing, air is getting in period. It's either via a vacuum leak, or an "idle control" system that is allowing bypass air in. The two idle control systems are the IACV and the thermo valve.
The thermo valve is actually super simple. It's a unit that expands when heated by coolant (i.e. the coolant lines that run to the thermo valve housing). A shaft and a valve is essentially connected to the unit that expands. Once expanded the valve shuts thus cutting off bypass air to the manifold.
The thermo valve uses the hole on the lower left (when facing the throttle body) inside the tip of the throttle body. When your coolant temp is below "operating" that hole should be pulling a vacuum. This is allowing extra air in until the motor warms up. Once your coolant comes up to temp, the unit expands and the valve shuts. Therefore, if your lower hole in the throttle body has vacuum after the motor is warm, that's a problem.
You have to disassemble the unit underneath the throttle body and identify the problem. Mostly it seems the seal for the valve comes unscrewed. This round ring should NOT be screwed on all the way. You want it to NOT be sealed when cold, then sealed once warm. It's a pretty straightforward unit.
I think I am going to have to do a write up for Honda-techers because this is certainly a common issue for alot of you. I was once one of those people so I know how it is. It really just requires you have an understanding of the system though, and once you do you'll be able to repair it.
For those of you going to dealers and they can't fix your car, don't be surprised. The dealer techs aren't the honda wizards some make them out to be. They are great at changing timing belts and doing recall repairs, but very few of them are very good at true troubleshooting. I know several dealer techs and my knowledge far surpasses theirs in many areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, this started out really well...until you started talking about a part that isn't even present on the OP's car. But good info for those who actually do have it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, this started real well. You said everyone should understand the idle system...then you got to a point that you didn't understand.
Everything you said is correct. If the idle is climbing, air is getting in period. It's either via a vacuum leak, or an "idle control" system that is allowing bypass air in. The two idle control systems are the IACV and the thermo valve.
The thermo valve is actually super simple. It's a unit that expands when heated by coolant (i.e. the coolant lines that run to the thermo valve housing). A shaft and a valve is essentially connected to the unit that expands. Once expanded the valve shuts thus cutting off bypass air to the manifold.
The thermo valve uses the hole on the lower left (when facing the throttle body) inside the tip of the throttle body. When your coolant temp is below "operating" that hole should be pulling a vacuum. This is allowing extra air in until the motor warms up. Once your coolant comes up to temp, the unit expands and the valve shuts. Therefore, if your lower hole in the throttle body has vacuum after the motor is warm, that's a problem.
You have to disassemble the unit underneath the throttle body and identify the problem. Mostly it seems the seal for the valve comes unscrewed. This round ring should NOT be screwed on all the way. You want it to NOT be sealed when cold, then sealed once warm. It's a pretty straightforward unit.
I think I am going to have to do a write up for Honda-techers because this is certainly a common issue for alot of you. I was once one of those people so I know how it is. It really just requires you have an understanding of the system though, and once you do you'll be able to repair it.
For those of you going to dealers and they can't fix your car, don't be surprised. The dealer techs aren't the honda wizards some make them out to be. They are great at changing timing belts and doing recall repairs, but very few of them are very good at true troubleshooting. I know several dealer techs and my knowledge far surpasses theirs in many areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, this started out really well...until you started talking about a part that isn't even present on the OP's car. But good info for those who actually do have it.
01-01-2007, 06:12 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, this started real well. You said everyone should understand the idle system...then you got to a point that you didn't understand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, its not that I don't understand it, its just that I have never taken the time to see all the details and be able to descibe it like you have. Thanks for clearing that up. Also, they serve no pupose in my eyes because I never run that part, and my motors always idle the way they should. I always just toss them in the garbage. Perhaps it allows even more air the the IACV can, so that the engine will race more when cold? Hopefully you can chime in.
I first saw these when working on old 22R toyota motors.They have the same thermo valve and its sole purpose is to control idle, there is no electrical part. When there was rust or crap in the cooling system it would easily clog the passageway and the idle would surge the exact same as a honda engine does. Super annoying!
Well, this started real well. You said everyone should understand the idle system...then you got to a point that you didn't understand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, its not that I don't understand it, its just that I have never taken the time to see all the details and be able to descibe it like you have. Thanks for clearing that up. Also, they serve no pupose in my eyes because I never run that part, and my motors always idle the way they should. I always just toss them in the garbage. Perhaps it allows even more air the the IACV can, so that the engine will race more when cold? Hopefully you can chime in.
I first saw these when working on old 22R toyota motors.They have the same thermo valve and its sole purpose is to control idle, there is no electrical part. When there was rust or crap in the cooling system it would easily clog the passageway and the idle would surge the exact same as a honda engine does. Super annoying!
01-01-2007, 07:20 AM
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there is no FITV in his car, the easiest fix out there is take appart your IACV and spray some deep creep in there, clean off the screen, change oil filter and PCV valve. Ive had idle problems with a bad oil filter, second i changed it, problem fixed.
01-01-2007, 10:33 AM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, this started out really well...until you started talking about a part that isn't even present on the OP's car. But good info for those who actually do have it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, to be honest I didn't thoroughly read the O.P.'s post on his owning an automatic, but thanks for clearing that up for us all. I was just addressing what is for the mostpart common.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, its not that I don't understand it, its just that I have never taken the time to see all the details and be able to descibe it like you have. Thanks for clearing that up. Also, they serve no pupose in my eyes because I never run that part, and my motors always idle the way they should. I always just toss them in the garbage. Perhaps it allows even more air the the IACV can, so that the engine will race more when cold? Hopefully you can chime in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, honestly Honda did put the thing there for a purpose. They are simple straightforward units, you should take one apart when you get a chance. The first time I took one apart I supported it in a pan of water on the stove...watched it expand and all.
The problem I have found several times on other guys' cars is that the throttle body gasket develops a leak between the passages of the thermo valve and the intake manifold. This will actually allow air to be constant even if the valve works.
You should run them though, they are pretty simple and very unlikely to fail function wise. They actually just unscrew themselves and you have problems then.
Like I said, I should do a write up here soon for troubleshooting these idle problems.
Well, to be honest I didn't thoroughly read the O.P.'s post on his owning an automatic, but thanks for clearing that up for us all. I was just addressing what is for the mostpart common.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, its not that I don't understand it, its just that I have never taken the time to see all the details and be able to descibe it like you have. Thanks for clearing that up. Also, they serve no pupose in my eyes because I never run that part, and my motors always idle the way they should. I always just toss them in the garbage. Perhaps it allows even more air the the IACV can, so that the engine will race more when cold? Hopefully you can chime in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, honestly Honda did put the thing there for a purpose. They are simple straightforward units, you should take one apart when you get a chance. The first time I took one apart I supported it in a pan of water on the stove...watched it expand and all.
The problem I have found several times on other guys' cars is that the throttle body gasket develops a leak between the passages of the thermo valve and the intake manifold. This will actually allow air to be constant even if the valve works.
You should run them though, they are pretty simple and very unlikely to fail function wise. They actually just unscrew themselves and you have problems then.
Like I said, I should do a write up here soon for troubleshooting these idle problems.
01-04-2007, 12:39 AM
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (RC000E)
I apprecitate all the replies, and appreciate even more those who understand that it is an automatic with just the iacv. the only thing i have not tried would probably be the intake manifold gasket.... everything else may as well be new, no more than a couple month old. Two things I would like to add on is that the iacv when unplugged while the car is running the enginge will bounce up and down quickly. Also the TPS is within specs for voltage. I have however unplugged the TPS while the car is running and the car seems to idle smooth. I do know that u cant run with out the thing plugged in though. But if for some reason the problem was the tps, should it be throwing a tps code? Instead of the weekly IACV code 14?
P.S. Yes the car is modded I do want to point out that this problem has been going on since the car was 100 percent stock, but other than the idle like i said before the car runs great and for an automatic on nitrous it shuts up little punk kids really quick.
P.S. Yes the car is modded I do want to point out that this problem has been going on since the car was 100 percent stock, but other than the idle like i said before the car runs great and for an automatic on nitrous it shuts up little punk kids really quick.
01-04-2007, 06:41 AM
#21
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (hondastrtracr)
People who mess with the idle speed screw without knowing what it does tend to mess up their own idle and cause idle hunting.
With the IACV disconnected, the car should idle 400-450 RPM. If it idles higher than that, then you adjust this screw. If the base idle's too high, it'll compete with the IACV set idle and cause hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor.
With the IACV disconnected, the car should idle 400-450 RPM. If it idles higher than that, then you adjust this screw. If the base idle's too high, it'll compete with the IACV set idle and cause hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor.
01-04-2007, 06:54 AM
#22
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the IACV disconnected, the car should idle 400-450 RPM. If it idles higher than that, then you adjust this screw. If the base idle's too high, it'll compete with the IACV set idle and cause hunting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This doesn't apply to a 3-wire IACV though. You never unplug a 3-wire IACV when setting the idle. Their construction doesn't allow them to close off the air passage completely like a 2-wire style IACV does. If anything, unplugging a 3-wire IACV causes the idle to raise a hair.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People who mess with the idle speed screw without knowing what it does tend to mess up their own idle and cause idle hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
This doesn't apply to a 3-wire IACV though. You never unplug a 3-wire IACV when setting the idle. Their construction doesn't allow them to close off the air passage completely like a 2-wire style IACV does. If anything, unplugging a 3-wire IACV causes the idle to raise a hair.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People who mess with the idle speed screw without knowing what it does tend to mess up their own idle and cause idle hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
01-04-2007, 06:58 AM
#23
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People who mess with the idle speed screw without knowing what it does tend to mess up their own idle and cause idle hunting.
With the IACV disconnected, the car should idle 400-450 RPM. If it idles higher than that, then you adjust this screw. If the base idle's too high, it'll compete with the IACV set idle and cause hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, expletive that screw.
I was doing everything right, couldn't get the idle to ******* change. I looked it up in Haynes, did it according to them (which wasn't far off than what I was doing, just more ****), and still nothing changed.
In the end I simply put the idle screw back to where it was and adjusted the throttle cable and got my idle to 7/800 RPM.
Idles perfectly, only serge is when the fan kicks on...and that's only one "dip."
Source: Method recommended by Archidictus. Ownage for low idles instead of that queer *** idle set screw which doesn't work. Though for bouncy/surging idles I'm not so sure.
Anyways...
I had MAJOR idle problems in my probe. I fixed it the half *** way. I blocked off the IACV (completely), widened the idle screw opening deal a bit, and turned the idle screw up. It did idle a little low (say 600), but it was even. That was simply b/c I was too ******* cheap to puy a new IACV. Though it's mounted in the TB on the probe and I swapped the entire TB setup from another probe and it didn't go away. The whole system can be a pain in the *** when you have a fucked up idle.
Just don't do what I did, start changing certain parts then you end up not knowing which parts are fucked and which ones aren't, and what is doing what, and why...it became a ******* mess b/c I shoulda wrote stuff down instead of ******* with it.
A nice way to start kickin **** out the way though is the infamous..pressure test.
Pressure test your vacuum system. If it's good, it's probably your IACV or FITV (or not FITV in the OP's case) or something to that sort. If it's bad then you have a leak, there's a way to test where it's coming out but I don't remember anything specific about it. First step w/ bouncy idle 4 me is always vacuum pressure check. 'Cause if it comes back nice, then you can knock off the possibility that there's a vacuum leak right away. The only vacuum leak then is through one of the units.
@ OP About Hondas:
I don't know if it's a common problem amongst Hondas as it seems to be simply a common problem amongst all 4 bangers.
With the IACV disconnected, the car should idle 400-450 RPM. If it idles higher than that, then you adjust this screw. If the base idle's too high, it'll compete with the IACV set idle and cause hunting.
Look in the manual for the procedure for your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, expletive that screw.
I was doing everything right, couldn't get the idle to ******* change. I looked it up in Haynes, did it according to them (which wasn't far off than what I was doing, just more ****), and still nothing changed.
In the end I simply put the idle screw back to where it was and adjusted the throttle cable and got my idle to 7/800 RPM.
Idles perfectly, only serge is when the fan kicks on...and that's only one "dip."
Source: Method recommended by Archidictus. Ownage for low idles instead of that queer *** idle set screw which doesn't work. Though for bouncy/surging idles I'm not so sure.
Anyways...
I had MAJOR idle problems in my probe. I fixed it the half *** way. I blocked off the IACV (completely), widened the idle screw opening deal a bit, and turned the idle screw up. It did idle a little low (say 600), but it was even. That was simply b/c I was too ******* cheap to puy a new IACV. Though it's mounted in the TB on the probe and I swapped the entire TB setup from another probe and it didn't go away. The whole system can be a pain in the *** when you have a fucked up idle.
Just don't do what I did, start changing certain parts then you end up not knowing which parts are fucked and which ones aren't, and what is doing what, and why...it became a ******* mess b/c I shoulda wrote stuff down instead of ******* with it.
A nice way to start kickin **** out the way though is the infamous..pressure test.
Pressure test your vacuum system. If it's good, it's probably your IACV or FITV (or not FITV in the OP's case) or something to that sort. If it's bad then you have a leak, there's a way to test where it's coming out but I don't remember anything specific about it. First step w/ bouncy idle 4 me is always vacuum pressure check. 'Cause if it comes back nice, then you can knock off the possibility that there's a vacuum leak right away. The only vacuum leak then is through one of the units.
@ OP About Hondas:
I don't know if it's a common problem amongst Hondas as it seems to be simply a common problem amongst all 4 bangers.
01-04-2007, 07:44 AM
#24
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (Syndacate)
Yeah, 3 wire stepper motors IACVs are oddball.
When the idle set screw doesn't work, it usually means the idle passages in the throttle body are clogged up. I took my TB off and there was a little mountain of goo right under the idle set screw. Cleaned it off, cleaned the passages and all was right with the world. A vacuum leak will make that screw not work too.
When the idle set screw doesn't work, it usually means the idle passages in the throttle body are clogged up. I took my TB off and there was a little mountain of goo right under the idle set screw. Cleaned it off, cleaned the passages and all was right with the world. A vacuum leak will make that screw not work too.
01-04-2007, 07:48 AM
#25
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Re: Lets solve this never ending problem for Honda Owners! (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, 3 wire stepper motors IACVs are oddball.
When the idle set screw doesn't work, it usually means the idle passages in the throttle body are clogged up. I took my TB off and there was a little mountain of goo right under the idle set screw. Cleaned it off, cleaned the passages and all was right with the world. A vacuum leak will make that screw not work too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If it was a vacuum leak my idle would be weird. It's perfect, it was just low. Though it was probably that second one, the lil idle passages clogged with gunk 'n ****.
Oh well, re-adjusting the throttle cable worked perfectly
.
EDIT:
PS: Also improved throttle response by doing it that way. Not because it's closer to WOT (which it is), simply b/c when I originally looked at it, there was slack in the cable...took out the slack, tightened it over a little so it'd tug a bit to keep it around 700, haven't had a problem since.
When the idle set screw doesn't work, it usually means the idle passages in the throttle body are clogged up. I took my TB off and there was a little mountain of goo right under the idle set screw. Cleaned it off, cleaned the passages and all was right with the world. A vacuum leak will make that screw not work too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If it was a vacuum leak my idle would be weird. It's perfect, it was just low. Though it was probably that second one, the lil idle passages clogged with gunk 'n ****.
Oh well, re-adjusting the throttle cable worked perfectly
.EDIT:
PS: Also improved throttle response by doing it that way. Not because it's closer to WOT (which it is), simply b/c when I originally looked at it, there was slack in the cable...took out the slack, tightened it over a little so it'd tug a bit to keep it around 700, haven't had a problem since.