Aphelion

Is there a trick to this bolt? I guess it connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle, is that correct? I broke a ratchet trying to get it off (I had a feeling it was going to break, but I had never broken one and wondered what kind of force it takes).

Aphelion

Also, I'm trying to change my axle - it is necessary to take this bolt out?

LVB18Civic

First off, Try using an impact gun or a large braker bar to loose the lower ball joint nut. Second, If you are changing an axle it depends on what kind of car you have and if it's an auto trans or manual. If its a manual you will have to brake that bolt loose and seperate the ball joint from the lower arm. I just use a big hammer to strike the side.(DO NOT hit the threads or they will mushroom and the nut will not go back on)

Aphelion

Thanks bro Yeah it's a manual 94 si. I didn't know it was called the lower ball joint nut. Thanks for your help

LVB18Civic

No problem.

_BEN_

Did you remove the cotter pin? It can be a total bitch if you sheared the pin.

Also squirt it down with some penatrant spray, wd, pb, liquid wrench, brake cleaner...ect

Once you get the nut off you will have you next challenge. Getting the two pieces apart.

Aphelion

lol I'm not a TOTAL newb, I did remove the cotter pin thanks for asking though.

I have to go get a floor jack to get the arm up high enough to use my impact, so I'm just going to wait till tomorrow and go get the pitman puller at the same time since I'm afraid to use a BFH I didn't even think about using some WD or PB. I guess it can soak overnight

Aphelion

oh hey, another question.. is using non-impact sockets on an impact gun a *really* bad idea?

LVB18Civic

It can be unsafe but i have done it in a pinch. Make sure the sockets are lifetime warrantied.

_BEN_

I split sockets all the time. When the guy at sears ask I just say that I had a 5 foot cheater bar and it split. I have yet to break a socket withthe impact wrech yet though.

I have broken a few socket wrenches too. With the cheater. Supposedly 3/8 drives are good for 150 ftlbs. hehe

wannabe_si

you can pop the lower ball joint using a 3/8ths craftsman ratchet!!!
there was a video around here somewhere
but usually just take a big hammer and hit the knuckle right next to the bolt!
it will pop the joint if you hit it hard enough

_BEN_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wannabe_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can pop the lower ball joint using a 3/8ths craftsman ratchet!!!
there was a video around here somewhere
but usually just take a big hammer and hit the knuckle right next to the bolt!
it will pop the joint if you hit it hard enough </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I remember seeing that.
here it is.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

Gumbey75

theres a tool for that. you can rent it at autozone its called adjustable jaw or sumthing like that.. do it the right way its much easier. its under 100$ to rent it and they give it to you back once you return the tool. heres the link. http://www.autozone.com/servle...e.jsp itll be your best friend trust me

97civicdx

its easier to just bang the nub on the lower control arm with a hammer i think.

Aphelion

haha that video is great! I'm gonna try that before I go get the puller tomorrow.

civicboisi

use a 1/2 inch ratchet with a 17mm socket...any socket wouldn't matter...i think its a 17...anyways, after you get the nut off, turn the knuckle away from you and hit that **** with a 5lb hammer...if you're scared to ruin the threads....PUT THE NUT BACK ON FINGER TIGHT! Common sense people...so wat if you ruin the nut, at least ur not replacing a lower ball joint insted. Just AIM and wack away...remember...its in the WRIST...not how hard you hit it...also an air chisle would do the trick in less then 5 secs.

Aphelion

thank you for the help so far guys

I am bumping this thread because this damn nut won't come off. It's been soaking in 'deep creep' (seafoam brand pb blaster) for a few hours, but no luck! I'm using a 1/2" electric "craftsman industrial" impact wrench. Should I be using a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench? The nut is only 17mm in size, I'm afraid if I go get a huge breaker bar and all that I'll break something... it's not like the huge 32mm axle nut that you can put all kinds of pressure on. Ideas?

pdiggitydogg

put a torch on the nut

Aphelion

thanks diggity. that plus using a solid wrench instead of a socket or impact wrench is how I got mine loose. it was hard as hell to turn, all the way down, but surprisingly the threads weren't stripped. I guess it was just rusted on. I opened the box of the new axle, and there's a notice on the top: "The lower ball joint nut may be seized on. To prevent having to remove a seized bolt, install the axle in this fashion:" haha. Oh well, I'm glad the nut is unseized.

Aphelion

well ****. I'm putting the thing back together now and the bolt that the nut goes on is just spinning. Does this mean I get to replace my ball joint? And if so, is it something that I can do today, or something I have to wait for the dealership to be open to do? dammit!

pdiggitydogg

Try cleaning the bolt section with a wire brush and get a new castle nut from the store (not hardware...they probably wont have one)

civicboisi

if the nuts spinning...jack that **** up by the lower control arm and then tighten it down...that or have someone stand on top and tighten it down...just need some sorta weight on the knuckle...remember to jack it up high to the point where it won't move no more then attempt to tighten...

Aphelion

thanks guys! I found out that the dumbass pitman puller actually mushroomed the end of the bolt (what a waste of money, the kick-the-wrench method was the only thing that worked). So I ended up taking a dremel to the last 4 threads.. after some sexy sandin' that castle nut went on fine, with an impact. Got it up high enough to put the cotter pin back in. I'm going to check the cotter pin in the morning to make sure that there aren't any problems. I just took it for a spin, and I have no more clunking! Also no more braking squeal since I replaced my shitty AAP "economy" brakes with some ceramic Napa brakes

Tad

ahhh I don't even use the cotter pins anymore..
just make sure the bolt is torque'd down real good...


that reminds me though. I should double check that it hasnt come loose

pdiggitydogg

So do you have a cotter pin hole anymore?
If not I really suggest a lock nut on the bottom