josh green

I am buying the motor i believe tomorrow and I have searched on this site and k20a.org for a parts list of what I need to do the COMPLETE swap. I need motor, tranny, jdm ecu, shifter box and cables, mounts, wireing harness. What else is there that I need to have it ALL in the car and driveable.

JDM_Ej

patience.

josh green

I know I have seen one on this site before but i cant find it. I have been looking for it for the last 2 days every time I get on the computer.

Jon V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by josh green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am buying the motor i believe tomorrow and I have searched on this site and k20a.org for a parts list of what I need to do the COMPLETE swap. I need motor, tranny, jdm ecu, shifter box and cables, mounts, wireing harness. What else is there that I need to have it ALL in the car and driveable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check around some more on K20a.org, if not here. You can find it.

Off the top of my head I know you need some of the Fuel system stuff, and a custom header.

also why do you say JDM ECU ? because it has no immobilizer? I'm not sure that you can run a JDM ECU on a USDM K20a2... Hondata is teh way to go. unless the AEM computer has come out yet...

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

read this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1057810

I hope you know what you are getting into...

Mounts ~ $500
Header $350 (hasport) - $1000 + (DTR, TrueRace, Rcrew, Hytech, & soon Pacman)
Axles ~ $250 profab - $400+ (hasport / DSS)
Harness ~ $250+ (hybrid-racing / hasport)
Radiator - can relocate OEM or get aftermkt Fluidyne, C&R etc
Rail aftermkt or mod'd OEM ($150 +)
Fuel Lines ~ varies
Fuel Regulator ~ varies
Shifter Box ~ varies can use stock with limitations
Coolant temp sensor and fan switch ~ B-series / Hasport
intake ~ custom or some B-series
Mid Pipe ~ custom
Shifter cables (OEM) RSX-S
Throttle cable (OEM) EP3 for k20a2 or 96+ Dx/GSR for jdm k20a
Shifter linkage Clips (OEM)
*EP3 idler pulley ~$80 - to eliminate Power Steering
*custom length belt to run EP3 idler pulley
*Power Steering ~$250 run custom lines & notch hood
RSX-S clutch slave cylinder ~ varies
custom clutch line ~ varies
*A/C ~ custom lines - relocate condensor, need A/C compressor
USDM ECU - need to remove immobilizer ~varies est $150-$300
*K-pro is $850 + the original ECU (removes immobilizer)
*Tuning & Install labor

might want to look into clutch, flywheel, LSD upgrades as well - if going o be street legal you'll probably need to throw in a hi-flow catalytic converter

* optional - some options may eliminate another ie going for P/S custom lines you don't need the EP3 idler pulley



Modified by adirondackR at 3:51 PM 1/12/2005

sockvtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by josh green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am buying the motor i believe tomorrow and I have searched on this site and k20a.org for a parts list of what I need to do the COMPLETE swap. I need motor, tranny, jdm ecu, shifter box and cables, mounts, wireing harness. What else is there that I need to have it ALL in the car and driveable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

some people might say for you to not waste money on the k series but personally if you have the money you should because the b series will soon be 0wned by the k series....me, i dont have enough money for a d-series oil pan which i need lol but when i do get money ill be doin the b series swap

josh green

why do i need, fuel lines and regulator, temp switch should be on the motor already, why is ep3 pulley needed to rid p/s? slave cyl should be on tranny and who can make clutch lines?

Special-K-Coupe

you need a new fuel rail and regulator cause the k series doesn't have a return line from your fuel pump. the pullley is need to have the belt fit unless you get a belt that will fit without the power steering pump. i know theres more cause i gone through the whole mess

31flavorscivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoomzoom92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some people might say for you to not waste money on the k series but personally if you have the money you should because the b series will soon be 0wned by the k series....me, i dont have enough money for a d-series oil pan which i need lol but when i do get money ill be doin the b series swap </TD></TR></TABLE>

K series is the future of Honda performance. Bump for the early adopter!!!

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by josh green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do i need, fuel lines and regulator, temp switch should be on the motor already, why is ep3 pulley needed to rid p/s? slave cyl should be on tranny and who can make clutch lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

RSX temp is sent through a multiplexor (digital communication line from sensor to ECU to RSX-S gauge cluster) hence you need a B-series sensor that runs off of regular voltage. RSX does not have a regulator or a return line & is a returnless system hence the need for all that.

you need to rid P/S becauses stock RSX lines don't fit & need to be reroute (estimated $250 for custom lines) if you like to keep P/S (& also notch the hood)
EP3 idler pulley eliminates all that & keeps the engine balanced (for lack of a better term) for about $100 ($80 for pulley & bracket & $20 for the aftermkt belt)

slave cylinder IS NOT included with most swaps - i believe it sits on the firewall of an RSX. Custom clutch line is just a certain length of clutch line (you can probably get at local autoparts store)

you should serch archive topics this has all been covered before

josh green

what mods are needed to do to the factory fuel rail? I have a temp sensor from a ls block that we have laying around. I didnt plan on keeping p/s b/c my car didnt have it to begin with. Buying the pulley is no problem, why couldnt you use a k20a3 belt? With the different pulley wouldnt the belt have the same length of the a3? If I have to get the slave cyl its not a problem, and custom clutch lines and fuel lines I can use steel braided lines. As far as wireing, is it like any other swap?

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

stock rail must be mod'd for a return line...or just buy one from AEM, Golden Eagle, etc... for $100-150

EP3 belt will not work!!! believe me you should need a belt 50.5" 7 rib from local auto parts store.

http://www.k20a.org/phpBB2/vie...light=

NY93CivicEx

i looked at the k20 before i bought my h22... and i decided on going with the h22 because it seems a little less of a problem to get in to my 93 civic..

is that true? (h is easier then k)

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NY93CivicEx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i looked at the k20 before i bought my h22... and i decided on going with the h22 because it seems a little less of a problem to get in to my 93 civic..

is that true? (h is easier then k)</TD></TR></TABLE>

not so much easier but much cheaper...