Gump

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Installed them in a b16a2 with stock cam gears, checked the timing and FPR, and it's still running really rough and stalls if I give it some gas. I wasn't able to install them with aftermarket gears cause I believe the gears I have are defective. Can anyone tell me whats going on?

EM1Guru

have you messed around with the idle screw?

Luserkid

You sure you put the timing belt on correctly. And its nice and tight? I had the same problem way back in the day, its a bitch to get it just right.

hialeahzbg

you have to adjust your valves. this is a must! that's why your car turns off!

Daniel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hialeahzbg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to adjust your valves. this is a must! that's why your car turns off!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, if you've already checked the timing, and it's okay, make sure your valves are adjusted correctly. I don't know how they do it for B-series cams, but for my D-series, Skunk2 provided the specs of intake and exhaust valve lash for use with the cam. Incorrect valve lash can definitely cause the engine to stall out. It happened on my stock cam because the valve lash was too tight ... not even a lot, just a little, and it caused the engine to sputter and occassionally stall out at idle.

DOHCtorTHRUST

my best bet is the timing.. although it might be slightly off it still should be able to run. crappy but it'll run.

redo the timing and see what happens. you mentioned about the FPR... is it a aftermarket FPR? if so what psi is it set at?

mines ran kinda choppy with low pressure..

Gump

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When I put it to TDC the cam gears line up, but how do I know if the crank is off? Do I line up the white mark on the crank pully with another mark on the motor? If so it's line up with a mark on the timing cover.

Yes it's an aftermarket FPR, it's was set at 45 then I lowered it to 40.

Is it absolutly necessary to do a valve adjustment after a cam install? Cause I thought I would be able to drive my car to Sears to pick up the necessary tools, and then do the valve adjustment later today when the motor cooled down


Modified by Gump at 4:57 PM 4/27/2004

Gump

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up, need to figure this out ASAP

dunkd

VALVES!

Gump

iTrader: (1)

Valves? Are you saying it needs a valve adjustment? As soon as my buddy comes, I'll be heading off to Sears. Can anyone tell my how to tell if the crank is at TDC?

00EM1Si

I have the same problem where my car starts with a rough idle and stalls when you give it gas...I had a shop install my Stage 1's on and they did a valve adjustment and it Idles hard because they are "aggressive cams" thats what they told me but I lowered my Fuel PSI at 30-33 so the car won't stall. it doesnt stall anymore, but its idles kinda low...

Jayboy

You've got to be kidding me! You put cams in and you dont even know that you HAVE to adjust your valves? Think of it, the cams are obviously bigger so wouldnt that effect how much your valves and such would open? You should have had some specs on the valve lash w/your cams.

Do it right the first time!

Gump

iTrader: (1)

I knew that I had to do a valve adjustment, but I didn't know that I had to do it right away, I thought I can get away driving the car two miles to buy the tools.

JDMlyfestyle

Yup its a Huge must to adjust your valves. As for TDC on the crank pulley there is a little white mark on the Pulley its self and line it up with the little mark on the lower timing belt cover.

Gump

iTrader: (1)

Learn something new everyday

My motor is at TDC, marks on the cam gears and on the pully all line up.