Tad

Hi,
I Just got some new neuspeed koni's for my eg hatch.
actually had held off getting them due to the price, but I found a set within my pricerange so I went for it.

NOW, first off,
when you adjust the firmness, is the ENTIRE piston rod supposed to turn, or just the little *** on the end of it??
on my agx's you pushed in the **** and turned it, and the rod stayed in place(it said if you spin the rod you could damage the agx, so I want to make sure its not the same on my koni's).

ALSO, does anyone know where I might get ahold of an extra set of front spring perches?
I have some coilover sleeves I want to use, and they should fit right on the front perches. Im prety sure they'll fit on the rears, but i'd be alot more confident using them on the fronts, cuz its a flush fit.

SO where could I get these?
used is fine.

I was originally just going to go out and buy some metal washers with a 42mm inner diameter, and put the sleeves on those... but I cant find any washers that big hehe.

thanks!

Tad

OH, also,
if you want to order yourself up a set
contact autosportwholesale@verizon.net.
He gave me very good service, and responded promptly to all my emails. And the price is right.
he sells them for 489 on ebay, buy it now!!

SkyeC

I got my Neuspeed/Konis for 500 shipped from the same guy. Shipped same day, very good service.

No, the piston rod isn't supposed to spin when you adjust the firmness, otherwise you're not adjusting anything, are you? If it's installed and properly bolted in, it shouldn't be spinning.

I'm waiting on a couple other suspension parts before I install mine, let us know how you like yours'.

As far as your coil-over situation, I'd get the Koni "coil-over" conversion or call GC and get their Koni-specific kit with custom rates of your liking.

Tad

ok,
its proly cuz they arent installed yet that its spining, haha(wel i didnt let it spin far at all, stopped when the whole rod started to move)

and I dont have gc's, I have arospeed sleeves
and i want to keep them.
not interested in paying 20bux a corner for gc's sleeve/adaptor either.

i'm going to keep trying hardware stores tomorrow to find that washer,
it should work just fine.

lean

I've got neuspeed koni's matched with h&r race on my lude and love em. I paid about $615 shippef for em back in June (a little more expensive for the prelude plus $75 next day air. ). Next suspension I'm gonna get are teins, but if I had to get shocks/springs, I'd get these again. Love em. Have fun!

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got neuspeed koni's matched with h&r race on my lude and love em. I paid about $615 shippef for em back in June (a little more expensive for the prelude plus $75 next day air. ). Next suspension I'm gonna get are teins, but if I had to get shocks/springs, I'd get these again. Love em. Have fun!</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, thanks..
a bit ot but thanks.
heres a tip, if you dont put the brake bracket on the teins at all, you should be able to gain almost an inch of travel up front.

Jer

im confused a little. why are they neuspeed koni's and not just koni's? i thought the neuspeed koni's were the newer version of the full bodied coilovers offered by neuspeed. is neuspeed and koni now part of the same company? thanks in advance for any info to clear this up.

VX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GERM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im confused a little.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Quick archived search:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=201511
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334494
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=315463
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=376689
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=383593
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=464121
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=419957
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=513245
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=548580
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=673246

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GERM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks in advance for any info to clear this up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No prob.

RCHB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got neuspeed koni's matched with h&r race on my lude and love em. I paid about $615 shippef for em back in June (a little more expensive for the prelude plus $75 next day air. ). Next suspension I'm gonna get are teins, but if I had to get shocks/springs, I'd get these again. Love em. Have fun!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got the same setup, but for a civic....and cheaper

Tad

ok now were real ot

VX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOW, first off, when you adjust the firmness, is the ENTIRE piston rod supposed to turn, or just the little *** on the end of it??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just to confirm, the shock piston rod is not supposed to turn while you adjust the rebound firmness.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALSO, does anyone know where I might get ahold of an extra set of front spring perches? SO where could I get these?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://arospeed.com/product_in...d=630

OT: In your other thread: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aah, ok. sounds good. and if its that close of a fit, it is possible to remove material from the fork without damaging it. especially if its only a small ammount. (you can also get older civic forks with are thicker.. then remove material from them).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have any experience w/ removing material from the damping forks.

But If you just lube em' up and but some back into it, you won't need to remove any material from the forks trying to get the shocks down in them.

Just becareful not to strip the screw when trying to tighten it up (torquing it down). I stripped 2 screws.

Make sure to thread the screw in a little before putting the shock into the lower forks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
No Prob.

CRX Lee

Once in the car, the piston rod will not turn when you turn the KONI adjuster ****. If youa re adjusyting them off the car, simply hold the rod in one hand and turn the **** with the other as you can keep the rod from turning just with hand grip since it doesn't take that much force to turn the adjuster. The adjuster mechanism will stop at the max and min settings and for Hondas that is generally about 1.75 or so total turns.

DO NOT just put a 42mm ID washer on to op the circlip in the groove on the KONIs. It is extremely important that whatever platform sits on top of the circlip must have a groove machines in the bottom side of it so that the circlip actually fits up inside the groove and is captured by it so that it cannot possibly expand. Look at the underside of the front spring perch or look at the underside of the seperate ring that the cup shaped rear spring perch sits on for the back of the Civic. This circlip must be captured and kept from expanding or the design doesn't sork, it is much weaker and risks falling down. The KONI perches have such a groove, the GC adapters have such a groove and the drop on sleeves that we make have the groove. No groove= no good. The problem with the cheap drop on sleeve systems like Arospeed, etc. is that to fit over every brand of shock, the ID must be big so they really don't fit any of them well. The KONI circlip system works very well (Bilstein uses it on some cars too) but it is all based on the circlip being captured to get the full strength and safety. If you spent the money to get the good shocks (and they are the best) take the effort to make sure they are installed right.

The Neuspeed KONIs have 5 circlip groove locations and thus give you ore ride height adjustment options and also have a 20 mm rebound stop so they are shorter at max extension off thecar so a short aftermarket spring will still have some preload at full droop and won't fall out of the upper perch when you jack the car up. The valving and actual body length are exactly the same as the normal KONI Sport.

Hope this helps. Im you have any more questions, contact our tech folks at 859-586-4100 option 6 or info@koni-na.com.

CRX Lee

I don't have any experience w/ removing material from the damping forks.

But If you just lube em' up and but some back into it, you won't need to remove any material from the forks trying to get the shocks down in them.

Just becareful not to strip the screw when trying to tighten it up (torquing it down). I stripped 2 screws.

Make sure to thread the screw in a little before putting the shock into the lower forks.


No Prob.[/QUOTE]

Don't take any material off the fork, just leave off the brake line ring and install them on the car with the pinchbolt lined up with the dimple in the shock body but not tightened. With the pinchbolt started by 2 or 3 threads (thus piloting the bolt to where it will go and not stripping the threads), then take a straight blade screw driver or punch and drive it into the split in the back side of the fork so it is wedging the fork mouth wider open. When you have it wedged in pretty good and the top perch it in position on the car and the bottom fork bolt is through he control arm, take a floor jack and slowly push up on the lower control arm and the fork will be pushed father up on the shock bottom and you will see the end of the shock some out through the bottom of the fork. Sometimes you can get as much as 1/2 inch at the shock which is about 3/4 inch extra down stroke at the wheel. once the two side are descending down the same amount , remove the wedging tool and tighten the pinchbolt. If the two stick down different amoutns it could make the car sit unlevel unless you compensate by setting you lower perches differently. Once everything is tight, then use a zip tie to hold your brake line to the shock body.

I have done this for yours with my street and racing Hondas and it really helps get extra down travel room for lowered cars.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DO NOT just put a 42mm ID washer on to op the circlip in the groove on the KONIs. It is extremely important that whatever platform sits on top of the circlip must have a groove machines in the bottom side of it so that the circlip actually fits up inside the groove and is captured by it so that it cannot possibly expand. Look at the underside of the front spring perch or look at the underside of the seperate ring that the cup shaped rear spring perch sits on for the back of the Civic. This circlip must be captured and kept from expanding or the design doesn't sork, it is much weaker and risks falling down. The KONI perches have such a groove, the GC adapters have such a groove and the drop on sleeves that we make have the groove. No groove= no good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK what if I use the ring that goes under the cups, and then put a washer on top of that? the ring would capture the circlip great, then the sleeve would rest on the washer, which rests on the ring, which captures the clip.

?

SkyeC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't take any material off the fork, just leave off the brake line ring and install them on the car with the pinchbolt lined up with the dimple in the shock body but not tightened. With the pinchbolt started by 2 or 3 threads (thus piloting the bolt to where it will go and not stripping the threads), then take a straight blade screw driver or punch and drive it into the split in the back side of the fork so it is wedging the fork mouth wider open. When you have it wedged in pretty good and the top perch it in position on the car and the bottom fork bolt is through he control arm, take a floor jack and slowly push up on the lower control arm and the fork will be pushed father up on the shock bottom and you will see the end of the shock some out through the bottom of the fork. Sometimes you can get as much as 1/2 inch at the shock which is about 3/4 inch extra down stroke at the wheel. once the two side are descending down the same amount , remove the wedging tool and tighten the pinchbolt. If the two stick down different amoutns it could make the car sit unlevel unless you compensate by setting you lower perches differently. Once everything is tight, then use a zip tie to hold your brake line to the shock body. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the tip, Lee. I'll try this out next week with my Konis.

CRX Lee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OK what if I use the ring that goes under the cups, and then put a washer on top of that? the ring would capture the circlip great, then the sleeve would rest on the washer, which rests on the ring, which captures the clip.

?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That should be no problem if you put something on top of the ring that has the groove so the circlip to go into. Having the groove is the ket, above that just make sure that the sleeve sits squarely to the shock body so it does not **** at an angle and distribute the load unevenly. Good luck.