Just changed pads in my 93' Coupe, got a problem now.
06-14-2004, 07:20 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Atlanta, TX, USA
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just changed pads in my 93' Coupe, got a problem now.
I changed the front pads in my 1993 Coupe. I couldn't get the caliper back on w/ both new pads on the passenger side, and I was in a rush to get to work, so I stuck the old INSIDE brake pad back on.
I drove around like that for a few days, then yesterday I decided to try and put the other pad in. Couldn't get piston all the way in, and didn't have a proper C Clamp, so I lightly loosened the brake bleed screw, and slid caliper on and immediately tightened.
Took it out for a test drive, now the car pulls to the left when braking. Also, I press down hard enough, only the left tire will lock up.
Did I get air in the lines? Do I need to bleed the system? Or would this because of having a slightly thicker pad on the inside of one of the calipers?
I drove around like that for a few days, then yesterday I decided to try and put the other pad in. Couldn't get piston all the way in, and didn't have a proper C Clamp, so I lightly loosened the brake bleed screw, and slid caliper on and immediately tightened.
Took it out for a test drive, now the car pulls to the left when braking. Also, I press down hard enough, only the left tire will lock up.
Did I get air in the lines? Do I need to bleed the system? Or would this because of having a slightly thicker pad on the inside of one of the calipers?
06-14-2004, 07:45 AM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Just changed pads in my 93' Coupe, got a problem now. (Attoir)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Attoir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did I get air in the lines? Do I need to bleed the system? Or would this because of having a slightly thicker pad on the inside of one of the calipers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The answer to all of your questions is yes, I beleive. If you open up the bleed screw, you should always bleed your system. It may not cause your problem, but you should always bleed.
If you have different pads on the left and right, that could be causing the lock-up. Also, why wouldn't the caliper piston retract all the way? It's possible you have bad calipers in the first place.
Did I get air in the lines? Do I need to bleed the system? Or would this because of having a slightly thicker pad on the inside of one of the calipers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The answer to all of your questions is yes, I beleive. If you open up the bleed screw, you should always bleed your system. It may not cause your problem, but you should always bleed.
If you have different pads on the left and right, that could be causing the lock-up. Also, why wouldn't the caliper piston retract all the way? It's possible you have bad calipers in the first place.
06-14-2004, 08:23 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Just changed pads in my 93' Coupe, got a problem now. (EX_AutoXer)
bleed i did that before on my girls car on both sides and when i went to break it didnt stop haha but i was just test driving it so got home and fixed it by bleeding the breaks and it worked like a champ..
06-14-2004, 08:34 AM
#6
Electrician
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,709
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (EX R8ED)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX R8ED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wish I had an answer for you...somebody help this guy
bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't have an answer...simply don't post.
Yes, bleed the air out of the lines. You might of gotten air into the system and hence why it's pulling one way or the other. Sounds like the pads are engaging at different speeds (in terms of which are contacting first). Get a big ol' C-clamp from a local auto store or Home Depot, they're less than $10 and can save you a big amount of trouble.
Check for warpage on the rotors aswell. Might aswell cut them while you're at it.
bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't have an answer...simply don't post.
Yes, bleed the air out of the lines. You might of gotten air into the system and hence why it's pulling one way or the other. Sounds like the pads are engaging at different speeds (in terms of which are contacting first). Get a big ol' C-clamp from a local auto store or Home Depot, they're less than $10 and can save you a big amount of trouble.
Check for warpage on the rotors aswell. Might aswell cut them while you're at it.
06-14-2004, 08:42 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Dimi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't have an answer...simply don't post.
Yes, bleed the air out of the lines. You might of gotten air into the system and hence why it's pulling one way or the other. Sounds like the pads are engaging at different speeds (in terms of which are contacting first). Get a big ol' C-clamp from a local auto store or Home Depot, they're less than $10 and can save you a big amount of trouble.
Check for warpage on the rotors aswell. Might aswell cut them while you're at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get off this guys case.. he read the post, couldn't help, and was nice enough to bump it up for others. So **** off and don't tell people to "not post if they have nothing to say"... Thats just ******** style.
The problem sounds like a draggin caliper on the left side. When you compressed the piston back in, did the dust seal get cocked in there? This could cause a dragging caliper. The correct thing to do would be to check pressure at both the front calipers to see if fluid distribution is the same. I would start with bleeding the system. Make sure you are running the new pads ALL THE WAY AROUND on the front calipers. DO NOT use one old pad and one new pad. This is not smart. If the rotors are lipped, grooved, or slightly warped (check with a runout gauge), then you must turn them. I guess I shouldn't say must, but you SHOULD turn them if you want to do things correctly.
I don't think your problem is air in the lines like everyone else wants to believe... Air extremely compressable and would result, if anything, in lower pressures to one side of the system. Just doesn't sound to me like whats going on. After you compressed the calipers, did you check the fluid level in the master cylinder also to make sure it was not overfull?
If you don't have an answer...simply don't post.
Yes, bleed the air out of the lines. You might of gotten air into the system and hence why it's pulling one way or the other. Sounds like the pads are engaging at different speeds (in terms of which are contacting first). Get a big ol' C-clamp from a local auto store or Home Depot, they're less than $10 and can save you a big amount of trouble.
Check for warpage on the rotors aswell. Might aswell cut them while you're at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get off this guys case.. he read the post, couldn't help, and was nice enough to bump it up for others. So **** off and don't tell people to "not post if they have nothing to say"... Thats just ******** style.
The problem sounds like a draggin caliper on the left side. When you compressed the piston back in, did the dust seal get cocked in there? This could cause a dragging caliper. The correct thing to do would be to check pressure at both the front calipers to see if fluid distribution is the same. I would start with bleeding the system. Make sure you are running the new pads ALL THE WAY AROUND on the front calipers. DO NOT use one old pad and one new pad. This is not smart. If the rotors are lipped, grooved, or slightly warped (check with a runout gauge), then you must turn them. I guess I shouldn't say must, but you SHOULD turn them if you want to do things correctly.
I don't think your problem is air in the lines like everyone else wants to believe... Air extremely compressable and would result, if anything, in lower pressures to one side of the system. Just doesn't sound to me like whats going on. After you compressed the calipers, did you check the fluid level in the master cylinder also to make sure it was not overfull?
Trending Topics
06-14-2004, 08:49 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't think your problem is air in the lines like everyone else wants to believe... Air extremely compressable and would result, if anything, in lower pressures to one side of the system. Just doesn't sound to me like whats going on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said, I really don't think that was the problem either, but he did open the valve, so the system should be bled for safety's sake.
All the pads should be changed to determine what is the matter with the brakes, because the combination of pads isn't helping. What's most likely is there's a problem with the calipers binding, since he had trouble compressing them in the first place (but since it seemed to have worked when the valve was open, it could be just the lack of a clamp)
Change all the pads, bleed, then test to figure it out.
I don't think your problem is air in the lines like everyone else wants to believe... Air extremely compressable and would result, if anything, in lower pressures to one side of the system. Just doesn't sound to me like whats going on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said, I really don't think that was the problem either, but he did open the valve, so the system should be bled for safety's sake.
All the pads should be changed to determine what is the matter with the brakes, because the combination of pads isn't helping. What's most likely is there's a problem with the calipers binding, since he had trouble compressing them in the first place (but since it seemed to have worked when the valve was open, it could be just the lack of a clamp)
Change all the pads, bleed, then test to figure it out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
EngineNoO9
Honda Motorcycles
22
05-25-2006 04:58 PM