98slowvicEX

Hey everyone. I sold my del sol a few days ago and was able to pick up a 99 civic ex with a b16a swap for an insane price of 1800$. I have been going over everything on this car to make sure it's sound and have run across a few problems. I am very familiar with sohc engines. This is m first dohc vtec.

First you will see in one picture of the throttle body that it appears someone used some kind of sealant in the bottom hole of the throttle body... I'm not sure if that **** is just stuck in their from moving through the passage, or done on purpose? or maybe has to be done when swapping in the b16a?

Second... notice a problem with those spark plugs!?! they are autolite, wtf! I have never put anything but ngk in a honda. Will these autolites be fine or should i go get the ngks?

Third question would be about the infamous leak on the passenger front corner of the block. Looks like head gasket. But compression is consistent. It's not the valve cover, dist o-ring or v-tec solenoid...

Fourth is a broken valve cover bolt, i assume just drill it out and re-tap?

Also have a very slight 3rd gear grind. Just replace the manual trans fluid and hope for the best?

itsnotfast

First, the crap in the throttle body should not be in there. My guess would be that the previous owner likely had a surging idle problem or some sort of vacuum leak and that was a quick fix to mask the acual problem. Second the plugs dont look to bad, however, like you I have only even run NGK in my Hondas. Third, get a bolt in that distributor, it may not improve the drivablility or function of the car but that bolt should be in there none the less. As for the valve cover bolt, there is no drilling necessary. Fourth, that oil leak is likely the head gasket, if its not coming from the cam cap or the vtec solenoid as you have said, and it should be changed. The oil doesn't have to come from the combustion chamber, it could be coming from the oil galleys from the head to the crank case. Lastly all you need to do is take the valve cover off and put some vise grips on the broken stud and unscrew it. I would replace the one across from it as well as that is not the proper stud. There seems to be a few cut corners with this car. Go over everything in the bay and make sure everything looks right. Good luck with the car!

itsnotfast

Also, not knowing when the last tune up was done as you have just bought this car. I would go ahead and replace the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor button.

98slowvicEX

im wondering if i should leave the crap in that hole in the throttle body... i mean if i take it out and the car runs like **** that would suck.

Lasky

ok so whoever sold you the car has plugged the FITV (fast idle thermo valve) which helps the car idle when its cold by allowing more air into the engine to keep the A/F ratio normal. If I were you I would take that rope or whatever it is out and make sure the FITV is properly working which im assuming it isnt due to the fact that he plugged it with something. To check to see if its working wait until the car is at normal operating temperature the put your finger over the hole and see if theres suction, if there is any more than just the slightest amount suction then you have a bad FITV and you need to go through these steps right here (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-fix-your-idleing-woes-fitv-iacv-2153910/)

I would go get some new spark plugs, he sold the car to you for 1800 I doubt he kept up on the little things

Now for the leak, I dont see much oil or grime on the engine but the little that I do see may be from either a leaky valve cover gasket or from the most likely cause on a B series engine.. the cam sealll

and i would just drill the bolt out and retap the hole

Lasky

The FITV is not supposed to do anything once the car is warmed up its only for keeping the idle normal when you first start the car

Drop_A_Dookie

car needs alittle work but a 99ex with a b16 swap for 1800. its worth it

98slowvicEX

ok guys im going to pull that sealant crap out of the throttle body and see what happens. I guess worst thing that could happen is it won't idle right when cold? Idle does loop slightly when warm but im pretty sure it needs a tune up. The car was a trade in at a local auto sales place. Guy thought the motor was a normal ex motor

One more thing, i have a very slight 3rd gear grind. Its not all the time, but most of the time. If i shift insanely slow or really low rpms it won't grind. Is it worth the 15$ worth of synocromesh trans fluid to try and fix? keep in mind i am currently laid off. If i can take back these 2 quarts of pennzoil syncromesh i can buy new spark plugs

98slowvicEX

So i need some advice... I'm strapped for cash big time for about 2 weeks. Should i get ngk plugs or keep the syncromesh trans fliuid to try and fix my 3rd gear grind? It's one, or the other

94EG8

Personally I wouldn't necessarily do either. GM syncromesh might get rid of the third gear grind, but the underlying issue remains. Right now it might just be a worn syncro or broken syncro spring. Leave it and you'll need a gear and sleeve (expensive) for sure. I'd just bank the money.

Vindicator9000

The 3rd gear grind is pretty ubiquitous on B16 transmissions, isn't going to go away. Sychromesh might mask it a bit.

I've been driving on my B16 transmission (b18c1 engine) with a third and 5th grind for over 2 years and 40,000 miles. Mine tend to grind if I shift into them above certain rpms. I've gotten to where I double-clutch third and fifth without even thinking about it if I'm above the rpms where the grind seems to appear.

The grinding is coming from worn-out sychros. Double-clutching allows you to complete the shift without the transmission having to engage the synchros at all. Synchros exist to match the speeds of the two gears trying to mesh. Double-clutching matches the speeds without the help of a sychro.

Back before synchronized transmissions were invented, you used to have to do it in all cars, all gears. Truckers still have to on some trucks. It doesn't hurt the transmission at all, and will save your synchros, although possibly at the cost of some shortened life to the clutch cylinders and pressure plate, since you're using them more.

There's a bit of an added risk too, because double clutching does make it much more possible to force the transmission into a gear where it doesn't belong... like 2nd into 1st instead of 3rd at 8000rpm. Your sychros trying to mesh are the reason it grinds if you make a bad shift. Take them out of the equation, and it's much easier to force a bad shift and overrev. As long as you don't shift like an idiot, that won't be a problem.

I guess my point is that you learn to live with the grind after awhile to the point that you don't even notice it. If you change up your clutch technique, you can drive it for years without grinding it at all.

And yes, you probably should get it fixed right at some point.

Mad-Mike

iTrader: (1)

Hey on my EM1 I'm missing the same bolt on the distributor. What size is the bolt?

93b18cx

1800 is a pretty good deal!

Getownit

1800 is a steal for that but eh the throttle body part is in fact because they had an idle roll. lol i know because metal tape will fix it in a jiff. but um id sugggest you do like home boy said do a quick tune up. get ngk's stock throttle body throw that **** away i used tape not that sealing ****. yup run a tap get that ho outta their! id also do what he said like 3 above me and grind that **** out bank up bread but personally i wouldnt get new gears id just find a good buddy that has a reliable trans for a decent deal :D GL with your car.