90civichb

I bought my LS from a friend locally. When I purchased it, it had an aem fuel rail and adjustable FPR. We made a deal to lower the price if he got these parts back.. I let him swap the rails and FPR.

Some time during the uninstall/reinstall of the parts he disconnect a sensor on my IM. I'm not sure what the sensor is called, but it is right below the fpr on the IM. I just noticed it yesterday while I was showing the car to a potential buyer.. he asked why the CEL was on and I told him I had no clue.. Then i noticed this sensor unplugged. I plugged it back in and restarted the car.. It immediately began to jump from 700 to 1500 repeatedly..

It wasn't doing this prior to plugging that sensor back in.. My question is, was the unplugged sensor the culprit, or is there something else I should be looking for? I only started it that one time after plugging in the sensor and am not sure how to reset the ECU to see if the problem will go away.

Any suggestions or help would be awesome

90civichb

anybody got some help for me?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Reset the ecu.

1) Pull the negative battery cable off for about 10 minutes.

2) Pull the ecu fuse under the hood in the engine bay fuse box

90civichb

I reset the ECU by pulling the ECU underhood fuse for 1 min.

I started the car and it ran fine.. I still had a really high idle so I started playing with the line that my boost gauge (use to be turbo.. still had the line..) was connected to.. The jumping idle started again.. I inspected to find out that the lower portion of this line is loose where it connects to the im.. I don't see how it holds itself in there.. Its under the fuel rail and doesn't look like it screws in or anything.. help would be awesome with this.

I also found another rubber line that is disconnected.. I don't think it has ever been connected since I installed the LS though.. anyone know where it goes?

A couple of pics:

The sensor that was disconnect:



The line that I played with and is loose at the connection to the IM below the fuel rail:


Misc. Disconnected Line (line comming off the circled piece):

90civichb

bump

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

You don't have to worry about those lines being a tad loose at the IM and the evap. Those are all emissions equipment. The line running from the IM to the spot behind the rail runs to a black box on the back of the motor. It ventilates the crankcase. The other line is for emissions and so forth. If you HAD a boost guage and the line is still there, I would remove that line and replace it. As for the sensor, the is your IAT (intake air temperature). Good luck on the sale

90civichb

I have a boost gauge still.. just using as a vac gauge.

The line I'm worred about is the one that goes from the top of the IM to the spot below the fuel rail. Once I reset the ECU the car idled fine until I moved that rubber hose. Then the crazy idle started again...

Sorry if I am not being clear enough.. I just felt like such an idiot when I started it up for this guy, only to have it act up.. made me look like a liar.. Know what I mean?

2lua

so do you still have cels? find out what are they if you having cels, and jumping idle could be that you are having a vaccum leaks, or dirty iavc, fitv.

90civichb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so do you still have cels? find out what are they if you having cels, and jumping idle could be that you are having a vaccum leaks, or dirty iavc, fitv.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, after attaching the IAT, the CEL went away. But before the jumping idle started back up, the car was still idling at about 1800 rpms.. There is def. a vac leak somewhere, but I'm not sure where.. I can't see any disconnected hoses.

90civichb

bump for more possible solutions

90civichb

bump for help.. I don't understand why no one has helped.. if it wasn't tech related I'd get a ton of flames.. but tech gets no responses.. what happened here?

Thanks to the few that did

90civichb

bump

.Radical_Edward.

I'm betting your IACV is the culprit. Clean it, reset your ECU and try again. Also, did you list what CEL's your ECU was telling you?

Check your PCV valve

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracrombie82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm betting your IACV is the culprit. Clean it, reset your ECU and try again. Also, did you list what CEL's your ECU was telling you?

Check your PCV valve</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never seen one of these get "dirty" as so many people say. I have never seen them cause this problem either.

.Radical_Edward.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never seen one of these get "dirty" as so many people say. I have never seen them cause this problem either. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Start your car and pull your PCV, while your engine is still cold and see what happens.

*Also, not to mention "dirty" is actually mean as clogged etc. But they do get "dirty"


Any luck to what codes the CEL's were?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go do the following:

Warm the car up to normal temp.

Remove the intake tube to the throttle body. There will be either two holes onthe left side (as you look at it), or one.

Cover the top hole with your finger. Does the idle quit surging or does it die?

Repeat the same procedure for the bottom hole.

Report your findings, please.

90civichb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Go do the following:

Warm the car up to normal temp.

Remove the intake tube to the throttle body. There will be either two holes onthe left side (as you look at it), or one.

Cover the top hole with your finger. Does the idle quit surging or does it die?

Repeat the same procedure for the bottom hole.

Report your findings, please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did this.

The side hole, when covered up, dropped the idle very low and the idle jumping went away.

The bottom hole, when covered up, also dropped the idle lower and stopped the jumping. It was not as low as the idle dropped when I covered the side hole..

Does this tell you anything I should check? Thanks for the help man....

BTW I didn't check the CEL code before plugging the sensor back in. The unplugged sensor was the only thing causing the cel though.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did this.

The side hole, when covered up, dropped the idle very low and the idle jumping went away.

The bottom hole, when covered up, also dropped the idle lower and stopped the jumping. It was not as low as the idle dropped when I covered the side hole..

Does this tell you anything I should check? Thanks for the help man....

BTW I didn't check the CEL code before plugging the sensor back in. The unplugged sensor was the only thing causing the cel though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your fitv is hosed. It should be below the tb on the intake manifold. You will need to unbolt it (3 bolt) and then remove the two screws holding the plate on in the back. See that plastic deal? Its unthreaded itself out creating a large vac leak. Thread that puppy back in and then replace the cover and bolt it back up. Problem should be solved.

90civichb

I'll do that tomorrow and see what happens.. thanks for the help

jonathancrx

hey I would like to know about that procedure ith covering up the holes in the tb. What its supose to do and not. also what is the thing under the tb that can come loose and create a leak?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonathancrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey I would like to know about that procedure ith covering up the holes in the tb. What its supose to do and not. also what is the thing under the tb that can come loose and create a leak?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Simple. The top hole is the passage to the IACV, the lower hole is the passage the FITV (if equipped). The FITV was removed I believe in 96 for most of the Honda engines with the introduction of OBD-2. Plugging the top one doesn't really show TOO much except for how much air the IACV is bypassing the TB to maintain idle. The lower one however should NEVER have suction on a car that is up to normal operating temperature and thus shows if you have a faulty FITV as stated above.

FITV = Fast Idle Thermal Valve
IACV = Idle Air Control Valve

jdmjohnny

if u have a fast idle check that if the idle is jumping there is a plastic screw in there and it is prob open..u need to close it and ur idle should b fine couple of my friends car wit b series swaps have done this...so it should work

90civichb

tightened the part and it seemed to work... The guy just came and bought the car.. thanks for all the help.. If he brings it back, I'll be back.. lol

FOOLINJECTOR

Can i get son pics or ideas of where these would be on a Jdm B16? Thanks
FITV = Fast Idle Thermal Valve
IACV = Idle Air Control Valve

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOOLINJECTOR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can i get son pics or ideas of where these would be on a Jdm B16? Thanks
FITV = Fast Idle Thermal Valve
IACV = Idle Air Control Valve</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already told you where they are. I have no pics for you. The FITV is under the TB bolted onto the intake manifold. The IACV is bolted to the back of the intake manifold with two bolts. Both items have two coolant lines running to them.