Derek Perez

So I've been experiencing some problems with my JDM D 15 B OBD II stage III VTEC, I pulled a d16y8 for the d15b and wastnt able to figure out the vtec for about two years running the p2p-a31 ex ecu. well today I got it working properly and let me tell you my heart was racing! The difference is night and day once you unleash the power of the stage three you'll never look back .
Anyways the problem kind of started when I picked up my motor at the JDM place the guy told me to hook up my stock ECu green vtec wire to the green and yellow wire on the dual VTEC solenoid. This actually worked but I didn't realize I was only kicking in to 16 valve mode and 5600 rpm's which wasn't bad but def not right. So I ordered a buddy club vcon VTEC controller and through trial and error because I hooked up the buddy club to the Redwire honestly I burned out a duel vtec solenoid which are hard to find because I didn't realize I had it backwards . I seen a thread on eco-modders where the guy said that the green is for stage two and the red was For stage three hi Cam also if you look at the dual VTEC solenoid one solenoid has h stamped on it (hi Cam) and you look at the Other solenoid has a m stamp on it for mid. ( didn't notice till today) so I contacted Steven from H motors and he looked up the wiring diagram and he confirmed that Red was actually for high cam mode. So I just wired the Buddy club up to the green wire and my ecu to the Redwire put a 10 amp fuse on the buddy club and worked good but I am putting on a 1.5 ohm resistor tomorrow to drop the Voltage to 12v! (Don't wanna bUrn another vtec solenoid!) Good luck by the way your welcome I didn't have to share this info, wish I was able to figure it out sooner!

Jimi Hondrix

Three stage Vtec info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-stage_VTEC
Apparently you must have an HX model Civic running in either ecomomy or standard mode. Unleashing a whopping 27 hp in "high power" (lol) mode is a power upgrade but not too significant...better than economy mode though and cheap power.

Derek Perez

No sir I'm not running vtec-e, it's jdm 3 stage vtec! I figured that no one would be really that versed in this knowledge that's why I posted this but it's OK don't feel like a noob, but most people don't even know this motor exists. Most people have no idea how to operate the dual sillinoid... some specs if you want to know "The D15B has always been in the shadow of its larger, more powerful 1.6l brothers. When the DOHC ZC was the top engine, the D15B came in both single and double carb'ed SOHC versions, the dual-carb version delivering as high as 105ps in the CRX 15X. When VTEC became available, two versions of VTEC D15Bs were developed for the EG-series (1991-1995) Civic. One is the well-knowned VTEC-E which delivered an incredible 20+km/l mileage. The other is the VTEC D15B, a power implementation. The VTEC D15B is a very significant engine variant because Honda used VTEC to make it possible to generate as much power as a DOHC design from its SOHC configuration. Thus the VTEC-D15B generates 130ps and redlines at 7200rpm, ably replacing the DOHC ZC design despite having 100cc less displacement and one cam-shaft less !" Here's the link D15B 1.5l SOHC VTEC ( also from link in case you don't want to read entire link ," a merging of the earlier VTEC-E and power-VTEC variants. Thus we now finally get power and economy in one great engine; incredible as it seems, on the 3-stage VTEC D15B, Honda actually delivered the best of both worlds.")

Derek Perez

Another thing to point out at jdm d15b haters, this motor has the most aggressive soho camshaft Honda has made more aggressive than the z-6,

"Right off the bat, obviously the D15B has advanced timing and more duration. However the lift is almost identical after comparing the two cams. There has been rumors of a thin lobe z6 cam that is more aggressive but that is a debate itself. While the numbers do not suggest much of a difference in lift, the duration on the c322 JDM cam is more, in other words the ramps start sooner and end later. Moreover, whether their is a magical USDM z6 cam somewhere out there with more lift, I doubt that it has more duration, so the d15b cam is the most aggressive stock d series cam found." Link- https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-m...6-cam-2431505/

Btw Jimmy Hondrix, what are you running in your Honda? Trust me I've been researching this for two years and I do all my own work, my d15b has 128hp redline 7200 comp 9/1 130 torque (torque is higher than a b18!) now that's a 1.5 liter ****!!!! Checkout this YouTube video...

Jimi Hondrix

That torque number is impressive if it's been dyno documented. Also, most of it doesn't come on until after 5k rpms.
Mine's a 1995 Civic EX with a '99 JDM B20B. Integra LS 5-speed manual. I also do all mine own work as most do here. Neither one of our cars is going to pin you back to your seat with power but, fun in cornering if suspension is right..

My guess is that a JDM D15b and JDM B20B is similar in price so not sure what the advantage would be in purchasing the D over the B..unless I'm completely wrong about my price guess. However, the D would be less modifications needed during swap. Pretty cool that you educated yourself about it and got it all sorted out..that's part of the fun with these cars/engines.

Does your car have the Multimatic transmission mentioned in the article?

JRCivic1

By your own video, it appears that you went 0-60 mph in 11 seconds... which sounds about exactly what the car would do with the D16Y8 in it. So what makes this D15B "feel" so much more impressive to you ???

Derek Perez

Jr civic 1, honestly before I was able to activate the mid range VTEC I was stuck in eco-mode. 12v mode until I got to high cam vtec so now that I unlock my mid range vtec power it's a difference For night and day for me but for you guys, Jimmy Hondrick he's gotta b20 so he's got a little more power than me for sure, but now that I activated my mid range power My car pulling hard I can actually feel it. Btw I have skunk2 pro series intake manifold, skunk2 60mm throttle body, knn cold air intake, accel coil, header/downpipe, high flow cat, magnaflow exhaust, 10.2 VMS spark plug wires, and NGK racing spark plugs. I have some skunk2 alpha Springs and retainers I'm putting in next week. I also just mounted my zex dry nitrous kit. Which I'm not going to even try until I get a Obd1 ECU chipped, I already have a obd2a-obd1 conversion harness. So I'll have to get back to you guys to let you know what it's like once I get it chipped and hit a 35 shot nitrous with this set up!

but trust me the car is pretty fast around 2000 pounds I'm probably running at least 140 hp with my mods right now, I was racing around with a 350z last night accidentally hit the limiter ☹️. Hope she's all right I'm bout to change out the oil and add a little bit of engine restore just in case...

Derek Perez

Jr civic 1 btw. That's just a video I found on line I think my car could probably take off faster than that with the Setup I have. Let me see if I get a chance I'll take a video today ������. By the way you guys could probably both smoke me I was just saying the car is way faster than it was����������

TomCat39

The advantage isn't in stock mode except for the fuel economy. The 3 stage if run properly will get you decent SOHC power with the added benefit of the HX/VX vtec-e economy.

Where the motor seriously shines is when you turbo it. One gent turbo'd his 3 stage d15b and stated he had quality torque from low to high, not just mid to high or high etc.

He ended up with a 5th gen coupe that was getting 55MPG average with 228hp with solid low end and mid end power.

That's where the motor shines, is torque throughout the full range as it has cams for each section to keep torque maxed at all times.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...rbo-11881.html

Derek Perez

Yes tomcat I agree I was actually going to turbo but advice from my build advisor Turned me off, he said turbos take more wear and tear in hot and dry climates and since I live in SoCal I decided just to do go with nitrous and bolt ons, also trying to stay in reasonable budget. So far I have about three grand into my car that includes two motors, aftermarket parts, rims and tires. So I figure a turbo plus internals would run me another 3 grand. I think this build is cool superlight all motor (I'm only using 35 shot nitrous=minimal) I can still smoke some guys with more hp than me!

I have a 1.5 liter motor sticker on my car that I'm sure will **** off anyone off that I can beat in a race... or even just pass...

Derek Perez

no I'm just running a usdm 5speed s40 stock ex trans, by the way the multimatic is automatic, but I'm sure it outperforms the usdm sluggish auto tranny... the motor was 850$ at hmotorsonline in Burbank, but most places want around 900$, definitely cheaper than a B20, and everything bolts on as far as the swap. My build advisor has the same car as me 96 Ek, but he has a fully built B20 designed by Bisimoto, he said his engine build is about 10,000$. His car is awesome mine is definitely cooler and faster than most cars on the road...

TomCat39

Here is the stock built dyno graphs for the D15B vtec and the D15B 3 stage vtec(-e):

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post13535203

Jimi Hondrix

Not hardly: https://www.jdmorlandoinc.com/produc...acura-engines/ Engines are stated to be between 45k-60k miles. JDM Orlando brings in low mileage motors, as a rule in the vicinity of 45 and 60k mile JDM Orlando brings in low mileage motors, as a rule in the vicinity of 45 and 60k mile JDM Orlando brings in low mileage motors, as a rule in the vicinity of 45 and 60k mile JDM Orlando brings Ridiculous waste of money of which he'd be lucky to recover half that amount if he sells the car. My intent is to keep my car for another three years and sell it for $500 more than I paid for it. Will be just over 100k miles on it when I sell it.

TomCat39

Really, just about any swap is not economical if your intent is to make money on these cars.

These kinds of things are for those who want to keep the car indefinitely, someone like me that has no intention of "making" money. More like a hobby. You spend way more than you ever make on a hobby.

I personally want to do this build with a turbo for my daily driver 5th gen hatch. I realize it's going to cost me between 3500-5000 to do with tuning and the turbo but then I'll have the car for another 20 years. Or at least until they push out gasoline engines and force electric cars in my area.

Jimi Hondrix

Living on the west coast of Florida I see the expense fishing hobbyist spend: 30k or more for a boat, 30k or more for a truck to pull it with and $400 for gas to and from fishing spots 40 miles out in the Gulf. I build guitar tube amps and speaker cabinets as a hobby but, rarely spend over $300. I am tempted to do a turbo build or V6 n/a into my '95 EX..but, it has to be earmarked money that's put aside to do so and must falll under a reasonable budget. As you stated it would be a very long term car and most likely not a daily driver.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hey Jimmy, you might want to edit one of your posts. It looks like they did some shitty scripting to sneak in some white lettered advertisement.

Jimi Hondrix

Derek Perez

Yeah to be honest I think he definitely spent allot of his money but he's a street racer and he is running a 75 shot nitrous I guess he races people for pinks so he might've already made his money back. My wife just bought a brand-new Nissan rogue almost $30,000 so I think my buddy still doing better pricewise. Personally on my car I mean I've almost replaced every part so I got about $3000 into it but it would've cost me more if I didn't do all the work by myself a here's a video I just made just kind of messing around I meant to put it on YouTube but the app I made it on wouldn't allow me to but check it out .

Derek Perez

my buddy runs nitrous it's kind of better than running turbo because turbo seals to get worn out quicker if you live in a hot dry climate but I guess Florida is not that dry he lives in Indio California where temperatures reach over 120° and he's usually below 20% humidity is really dry out there but remember whenever you go to V6 man you're losing all the lightness that your car has you're going to be front Heavy, you should consider just building a B 18 or a B 20 just all aftermarket internals forged pistons sleeve that bitch to like a 2.2 + skunk2 stage III Camshafts than run a 75 shot nitrousthat would be sick

Jimi Hondrix

A lot of heavily modded civics you see on the road are funded with drug money. Not saying this about you or your advisor because I don't know either of you but, those are the type of people that have or think they have the money to waste, not savvy enough or too short sighted to invest it.

V6 only adds an additional 100-150pounds, can be swapped for around 3k or less (depending on motor source) including harness and ECU.

TomCat39

As well, the V6 doesn't have the same inherent vibration issues as the inline 4 so can be larger displacement and easier more cost effective horsepower.

Derek Perez

omg that's too funny!!! I wish my car was funded by drug money, takes too long to earn it + I'm half Cuban that would be scareface style. My friend works at a hospital so basically funded by the pharmaceutical drugs money LMAO!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Tell that to the dual mass flywheel I just had to replace on my CM8 6/6...

TomCat39

Just look at inline 4's and inline and v6's

Largest inline 4 I've ever seen is 2.4L.

While I've seen many 6's in the 3.5 and bigger.

Why is that?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It isn't because of balance, it's because of bore:stroke ratios. Making a 3 liter I4 would result in an engine too tall to be feasible in most packages. Add two more cylinders, and suddenly you have the room to get up to 3 and 4 liters. Same reason you have 6 liter V8's, but no 6 liter V6's.