b18cKoupe

so what did the cel code(s) turn out to be?

djslim23

There are none :D I apologize, I typed now instead of no in my post earlier. That's the biggest shocker in this whole story. I expected to be dealing with the cel for months. First time that damn light has been off since I've owned the car

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

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djslim23

Finally a little update!

Now everything from the d15b's intake mani except the IACV is on the y5 mani (TPS, MAP sensor, EGR).

I checked the voltage on the map sensor and it appeared to be over 1V, wasn't clear since my voltmeter is analog. I wasn't sure which pin to check, but on one I got a huge spike, one I got nothing, and one it looked like just over 1V...but I'm thinkin I should get a digital one to be sure.

Now that everything is the same bar the IACV and I still have a surging idle (edit: turned out to be a vacuum leak between intake mani and head).

Thanks for the help so far

djslim23

T

djslim23

This line is pinched, but it doesn't effect the flow (tested it while running by squeezing with plyers).


Here you can see the loose EGR vacuum line, also the one curled back over the master cylinder is loose.


Loose EGR..


This guy goes to that valve on the fuel rail (doesn't interact with it), and to my pinky on the cannister...


1. Could that go there? (with a T connection possibly)


2. And that there?


(1st one was from the little black thing in the corner that also hooks up to cruise control, 2nd one is from EGR)

I don't think 1 & 2 have any relation to my issue but nonetheless, it will need to be fixed down the road.

And here's a video of startup

djslim23

After some late night research, I've stumbled across Civic HX people having similar problems due to a clogged IACV. So next I will clean that out and see what happens!

94EG8

To wire the econo light, take a look at the back of the cluster, find the bulb for the econo light, follow the traces, one will be a ground, the other will end up as a pin for one of the cluster plugs.

anishspring

Hi,
I had same kind of swap in my car, D15 non-vtec OBD2b to d15b 2 stage OBD2a
this thread is really useful, thanks a lot!
i am having problems when my car is in cold operation, it stalls and sometimes shuts off. But when operating temp reached, it works fine.
it might be a wiring issue, that i am going to fix thanks to you.
i am also going to connect the econo light on the dashboard soon.
As for the probs you are having, my mecanik might have some possible solutions,
tomorrow i will post pics of my engine bay, there are some minor differences and post also some possible solutions.
Cheers!

djslim23

Thank you 94EG8. I'll give it a shot. BTW, I owe it to you for some of this info I believe, I remember your avatar from d-series.org.

Anishspring- Hope this info does help! I'm trying to clean out the IACV today since when I plug it in it surges much more than when it's disconnected. on the ECONO light, I've been putting it off just so I can get the engine running, but I hope to get it soon.

djslim23

Welp, started her up after cleaning the iacv and at first I had a relatively smooth idle at about 2k. After about a minute of idling it began to fluctuate again, this time less harsh than before. The driving is tremendously better now that the iac is functioning. Now there is no violence between 0% Throttle and >20% or so. I'm thinking about bleeding the coolant and seeing if that does anything. Think the vacuum on the egr could have anything to do with it?

94EG8

If there is any air in the coolant it wont idle right, so bleed the coolant. I have seen one case of an EGR valve screwed so bad the car would barely run ('01 - '05 Civic) I was never on D-series.org btw, maybe you remember me from eghatchback or civic-eg? Either way thanks.

djslim23

Ok, bled the coolant and didn't make any noticeable changes. Huh, interesting about the EGR. Huh, sorry maybe it was here on H-T..must have been..thank you though.

For the EGR, I wonder if I should get a T connection to hook it up to the vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator.

djslim23

I wonder if I should use the EGR that came on the y5 intake and just repin the plug. It does not have a vacuum line, and 5 wires...but the p2j only looks for 3 so there shouldn't be a problem there...maybe I'll try that before I run to the store to grab a T

Amed Irizarry

Good Luck With Everything Bro

94EG8

D15Z1s used a 3 wire EGR valve that should work, so did '90 - 93 accords, don't know if the accord ones mount the same or not though.

djslim23

Hmm. I will try out the vacuum lines and see what happens, I think I have a leak going on.

94EG8

Also, just remembered that I've also seen a supra with a dirty EGR valve cause a screwed up idle, blew it out with compressed air and it worked fine.

anishspring

i have been driving my d15b for nearly 1 year without the EGR connected to intake mani, is it really necessary?

anishspring

concerning the rough idle, you might need to fine tune the throttle position sensor (TPS).

djslim23

Thanks guys. I'm going to see what I can do concerning a vacuum leak I found between the intake and the motor. If I still am having troubles I check out the TPS.

djslim23

After going over each nut on the intake again, I greatly reduced the idle fluctuation. However, it still has a little bit, but I hope that changes when I replace my vacuum lines.

customy8

You need a solenoid for the. Egr, not direct, vacuum to solenoid to egr and the evap hose connects to the niple off the throttle, no valve in between

shorty_boy

DJSlim,

I like what you have done. I'm working on putting this in an 89 HF converted to full obd2a.

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Duane_in_Japan

Dont T any vacuum line into the same fitting as the fuel pressure regulator. Post #48 is correct but the solenoid for the EGR must be ECM controlled. EGR cannot work while the engine is cold, while the engine is idling or while decellerating so it must be ECM controlled.

I am not sure of this year car but isnt the EVAP ECM controlled?? Does it not need a solenoid also?? Purge control. I believe post #31, where you are talking about the hose with your pinky goes to the charcoal canister, that would make the solenoid on the fuel rail area the Purge solenoid so it is good to go, that is ECM controlled.