SL0-hatch

Well, i just picked up a jdm b20b motor and noticed that it doesn't have a knock sensor nor does it have a cranks sensor. What should i do about this. I've got a 96 ek hatch. Will my car run sh*tty without those two sensors? what can i do to get these sensors. can i just buy a knock sensor and install it into the back of the block where its suppose to go cause i believe i saw a threaded whole for it. as for the cranks sensor what should i do? please help me cause the car is my daily!

infinitypro12

I say you need them and my supporting evidence; however, it would be beneficial to pick up a Haynes for a CRV and you car. I would also reccomend building the motor up a little before you drop it in, B20 VTECs are hella sweet. Someone else might have to anser the mounting portion because I have never had an issue and mine are fine.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&r...3Acrank+sensor

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&r...3Aknock+sensor

But then again from what I remember it will run if they are hooked up to the harness and not where they are suppose to be and you might as well do it 100% legit, so you don't have to go back and do it again.

SL0-hatch

thanks but how would i hook them up seeing that the jdm motors dont come with knock or crank sensor?

Groovinator

what ecu are you running? If its the one that came with the motor then you should be good to go, as it doesn't look for those two sensors to begin with.

dame-ningen

i believe only vtec engines come with knock sensors. but OBD-2 engines come with crank sensors.

just do this, get an OBD-1 LS ecu, and get the jumper harness for OBD-2a to OBD-1 and there you have it, no crank sensor and no knock sensor. (and alot less CEL's now that you'd be OBD-1)

waynecoSI

http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

go there and it will tell you how to take care of your crank sensor problem if you decide to stay obd2

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Here is a good thread about B20s:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20-non-vtec-faq-guide-including-p8r-head-information-1467903/



According to the above link, "All 99-00 B20's have a knock sensor, regardless of where it comes from, which signifies the high compression 9.6:1 motor. If your B20 does NOT have a knock sensor, it is not the 9.6:1 compression motor"

SL0-hatch

thanks for all the info. and as for the motor i have a 97 jdm one. anyone no what to do about the knock sensor if i decide to keep it obd-2?

ecko_3420

iTrader: (1)

Im about to do this...is there any disadvantage to using obd1?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

OBD1 is advantageous for tuning purposes. It also uses less sensors than OBD2.

SL0-hatch

okay so i guess ill just be going with the obd1 ecu and conversion harness.

b20c

your obd2-a car nonvtec car doesn't need a knock or the obd2-b 99-2000 crank pickup, jus use ls or b20 dizzy ls ecu and up your fuel pressure.Bro

P12 EG6

there is no reason to keep it obd2 because a b20 wont smog anyways, so there are no gains to keeping it, you should get a knock sensor, unless your running an ecu made for a car without, and if your gonna run obd2 youll need the crank postition sensor.

rick_rabies

whats the average b20vtec hp? with gsr head.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Depends on your state laws. In RI, there is no restriction on the motor, but they plug right onto the OBD2 port for emissions.

SLO-hatch, if you "plug in" for inspection in CT, you're going to have to make it work. KS can be added fairly easily and Katman's CFK trick that waynecoSI linked is even easier.

Did you know you bought the 8.8:1 motor instead of the 9.6:1? You sound surprised that it didn't have a knock sensor.

SL0-hatch

yea i knew i bought the lower compression one. just didn't know that it didn't come with a crank sensor.

thanks for all the info guys!

ecko_3420

iTrader: (1)

just wondiring how mch did you get your engine and tranny for?

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Me too. Did you get it from the guy in Danbury who had (5) JDM longblocks he was selling? I posted in his thread in the Northeast forum, as many did, and no one ever responded.

SL0-hatch

no i got it through a trade for my messed up gsr motor. and also got 100 bucks out of it. and got to keep my arp head studs... you guys think its a good deal? and it was the one that came with the giraffe intake mani. and the p8r head.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

I think it's a good deal if it you wanted a running motor.

Now trade it to me for my messed up y8 swap.

SL0-hatch

hahah... nice try. lol!

rick_rabies

i see.. no dif than an lsvtec

b20turbojason

if it was me and all i was running was that B20 i would just leave it obb2. get a obd2 LS ecu get a obd2 oil pump and obd2 distributor. oh and get the crank sensor and ECU. After that wiring is a breeze. Thats if you want to pass inspection. smog dont matter in CT like it does in cali. Here in texas as long as there are no codes on a OBD2 car it will pass emissions. So idealy it would have been better to get a OBD2 swap. or you could just go OBD1 and not buy as many parts. but if it is anything like here in texas you will be out of luck on inspection.

SL0-hatch

it is an obd2 motor. i don't know why it didn't come with the crank sensor. but probably cause its jdm. as for the obd2 ls ecu. i hooked on up to it but it ran shitty, probably cause i didn't have a knock nor crank sensor. right now i've got an obd1 ls ecu with a conversion harness on it. it runs like a champ. never really had a non-vtec car befor and it pulls pretty nice although vtec is great. but i have to pass emmisions again this year so it sucks. but until then i guess ill just keep running the obd1 ecu.