JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF
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JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF
My swap is a JDM B18C Type-R. I originally had the factory exhaust on it and had the piping upped to 2 1/2 inch all the way to the resonator. It sounded real nice; it had a decent rumble with very little to no sputtering. The problem now is that last week I installed a Tri-Y header on it and kept the piping the same, I can tell from the sound that the exhaust its flowing a little more freely but now when I push the motor it sounds like a ricer. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this; I’m assuming that I lost some of my back pressure and that’s why it sounds the way it does. Does anyone have a solution for this?
Thanx!!!
Thanx!!!
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Re: JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF (Nic)
did you use a new gasket where the header would meet the head? Wouldn't hurt to try a new one if you didn't.
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Re: JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF (j_scobar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j_scobar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My swap is a JDM B18C Type-R. I originally had the factory exhaust on it and had the piping upped to 2 1/2 inch all the way to the resonator. It sounded real nice; it had a decent rumble with very little to no sputtering. The problem now is that last week I installed a Tri-Y header on it and kept the piping the same, I can tell from the sound that the exhaust its flowing a little more freely but now when I push the motor it sounds like a ricer. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this; I’m assuming that I lost some of my back pressure and that’s why it sounds the way it does. Does anyone have a solution for this?
Thanx!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take it off right now!! we can't have you "sounding like a ricer".
Thanx!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take it off right now!! we can't have you "sounding like a ricer".
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Re: JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF (povs9)
you can either get a better resonator or put in a second one. if you got a cheap muffler shop no name muffler, you can also try a better name brand one. maybe like a greddy sp2 (used most likely bc they went bankrupt i believe) or apexi. third option is that you can try and live with it... i wouldn't know, i'd probably take that header off and not put it back until i got a decent res and muffler on the car to shut the header up...
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Re: JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF (Ek4 life)
When I had the brackets welded on, I was under the car when the guy was checking for leaks and we couldn't find any. I'm pretty certain that there are no leaks. I think my only other option is to try a different resonator. I'll try an apexi, which would be the best for my swap an N1?
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Re: (hawtness120)
no don't get the n1... it doesn't do much but make noise... get the other one thats like a stock replacement... not sure what they call em... OE-R's??
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Re: (j_scobar)
Take it too a muffler shop and get them to inspect it for cracks. My 99 Civic was probably the most "riced" sound you good get, just horrible, I took my car in to get another resonator installed and turns out there was a lot of big cracks around the old resonator. they welded them up and wow my car sounds clean , deep and not anything like a civic
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Re: (turbojdmhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbojdmhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you are prolly leaking exhaust from that region see if u cant weld them up </TD></TR></TABLE>
My header touched the flywheel cover too. I see that you removed yours, do you run with it off all the time? I'm asking cause i was thinkin' of doing the same thing.
you are prolly leaking exhaust from that region see if u cant weld them up </TD></TR></TABLE>
My header touched the flywheel cover too. I see that you removed yours, do you run with it off all the time? I'm asking cause i was thinkin' of doing the same thing.
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Re: (NOCEL)
yeah, I still have the cat on there, I think I'm ganna loose it though. I put it on in the beginning to see what it would do when running it through for inspection, It didn't pass with my swap, i just haven't taken it off.
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Re: (j_scobar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j_scobar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My header touched the flywheel cover too. I see that you removed yours, do you run with it off all the time? I'm asking cause i was thinkin' of doing the same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had mine off for almost 2 years. For whatever reason, the guy who did my auto to manual swap didn't use the flywheel cover that I gave him. It was all bent up anyway though. I heard that when you remove them, they almost always get bent up and crap.
I ordered a bunch of auto to manual parts from someone here and I KNEW to expect to see that bent since I read it here many times. If you do remove the cover, make sure the header doesn't grind against the flywheel
Ohh and having that flywheel cover off saved me alot of time by allowing me to jam the flywheel teeth to remove the SUPER SUPER SUPER TIGHT crank pulley bolt
If you can deal with the header and cover tapping, just leave it on. If not, ehh.. remove it. Just don't drive on very rocky fields for long periods of time at high rpm where it could catch a rock.
My header touched the flywheel cover too. I see that you removed yours, do you run with it off all the time? I'm asking cause i was thinkin' of doing the same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had mine off for almost 2 years. For whatever reason, the guy who did my auto to manual swap didn't use the flywheel cover that I gave him. It was all bent up anyway though. I heard that when you remove them, they almost always get bent up and crap.
I ordered a bunch of auto to manual parts from someone here and I KNEW to expect to see that bent since I read it here many times. If you do remove the cover, make sure the header doesn't grind against the flywheel
Ohh and having that flywheel cover off saved me alot of time by allowing me to jam the flywheel teeth to remove the SUPER SUPER SUPER TIGHT crank pulley bolt
If you can deal with the header and cover tapping, just leave it on. If not, ehh.. remove it. Just don't drive on very rocky fields for long periods of time at high rpm where it could catch a rock.
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Re: (JDM_MOB)
When I did my swap I remember that my old D series motor had a metal plate cover protecting the flywheel. I'm thinking that it should fit on my B series so that might be a solution. I'll have to wait till I get back in town to try it though. Does anyone know it this would work?
#22
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Re: (sageuvagony)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had mine off for almost 2 years. For whatever reason, the guy who did my auto to manual swap didn't use the flywheel cover that I gave him. It was all bent up anyway though. I heard that when you remove them, they almost always get bent up and crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They get bent up when they're abused, stepped on, etc. They don't get bent up from simple removal and installation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ordered a bunch of auto to manual parts from someone here and I KNEW to expect to see that bent since I read it here many times. If you do remove the cover, make sure the header doesn't grind against the flywheel </TD></TR></TABLE>
Considering the header would have to somehow be routed into a recessed area inside the bell housing, I would write this up as rather implausible. Unless of course you've somehow managed to bend your header so bad that it got shoved up in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ohh and having that flywheel cover off saved me alot of time by allowing me to jam the flywheel teeth to remove the SUPER SUPER SUPER TIGHT crank pulley bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, you could just put the car in gear and have someone step on the brake pedal.
They get bent up when they're abused, stepped on, etc. They don't get bent up from simple removal and installation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ordered a bunch of auto to manual parts from someone here and I KNEW to expect to see that bent since I read it here many times. If you do remove the cover, make sure the header doesn't grind against the flywheel </TD></TR></TABLE>
Considering the header would have to somehow be routed into a recessed area inside the bell housing, I would write this up as rather implausible. Unless of course you've somehow managed to bend your header so bad that it got shoved up in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ohh and having that flywheel cover off saved me alot of time by allowing me to jam the flywheel teeth to remove the SUPER SUPER SUPER TIGHT crank pulley bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, you could just put the car in gear and have someone step on the brake pedal.
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Re: JDM B18C-R... Installed a header, now it sounds like a ricer...WTF (Ek4 life)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ek4 life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a longer Resonator </TD></TR></TABLE>