unFOB4U

I've been surfing the net and came across 2 different approaches for installing a ITR sway bar.

1. Using a beaks kit

2. Reversing the GSR Brakets (left and right) and adding a sway bar bushing
kit as shown on http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/ITRon5G.html

Is one way better than the other, or is it safer if I would do both?


[Modified by unFOB4U, 6:42 PM 9/20/2001]

cjb92

beaks kit is by far better. the hybrid method is guaranteed to rip out with a large bar.

jg

If you have stiff enough rear springs, the subframe shouldn't tear. I'm running 450's in the back of my hatch and the "hybrid method" of mounting the ITR swaybar, and have had absolutely no signs of metal stretching or cracking.

Bumnah

beaks hands down. i've heard the hybrid way causes tear outs also. I'd go with beaks.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Where can I buy the Beaks system? and how much?

Bumnah

i can get the beaks kit

e-mail me at bumnah@yahoo.com


i think it's going for $60 shipped..

or send you directly to beaks...
just shoot me an e-mail

unFOB4U

Is this the same as the beaks kit? http://www.geocities.com/bretq/mounting_kit.html

I haven't seen any pics or what the kit consists of, but is this the same thing?
Does beaks have a website? I'm having a real hard time trying to find anything on it except from HT.

Bumnah

nope that's the bsq kit.

i have the beaks kit. here is a pic of how it is installed on my car with the itr rear sway bar.





Beaks kit has a plate chich goes on the inside of your subframe, and another piece which you mount your ITR bar to. Makes it real nice and solid. I'd really recommend it.

e-mail I think I've got some more pics of it.

Bumnah

Here are the installation directions you get from beaks when you order the kit. I'm just cutting and pasting and attaching the pics which came with the instructions:


Beaks' ITR Rear Swaybar Reinforcement Kit (S.R.K.) Installation Instructions

Disclaimer
The work and procedures shown and described in these instructions are intended for use by people having average skill and knowledge of the subjects. Caution: If you are inexperienced in using any of the tools or equipment depicted or any of the procedures described, or are in doubt that the work and procedures shown and described may not be safe in your chosen situation, consult a person skilled in the performance of the work or procedure. Throughout this information there are specific safety recommendations given, please pay careful attention to each of these. The creator of the information in these files disclaim any liability for injury or damage arising out of any failure or omission to perform the work or procedure shown and described. Your performance is at your own risk.

The reinforcement kit can be mounted on the following cars equipped w/ or w/o ABS:
‘94-’00 Acura Integra (expt. Type-R)
‘92-‘95 Honda Civic
‘93-’97 Honda Civic del Sol

Here are the parts supplied with the kit:
1) support plate (qty. 2)
2) nut plate (qty. 2)
3) bushing bracket bolts, 5/16"-18 x 1 1/2" (qty. 4)
4) bushing bracket lock washers, 5/16" (qty. 4)

Here are the additional parts that you will need for the ITR rear swaybar setup:
1) 52300-ST7-Z01 Integra Type-R rear anti-sway bar
2) 52315-ST7-Z01 swaybar bushing (2 needed)
3) 52308-SS0-000 bushing bracket (2 needed)
4) 52316-ST7-Z00 endlink bushing (2 needed)
5) 52312-ST7-Z00 endlink bushing collar (4 needed)
6) Stock Civic EX or Integra (any model) swaybar endlink assembly (2 needed)
7) Hi-temp grease

Here are the tools that will be needed: 13mm socket, 10mm socket, rachet, hammer, heavy-duty scissors/wire-cutter, electric drill, 3/8" drill bit, & chisel (optional).


Installation Instructions


1) Jack up the car at all 4 corners and support it with jack stands. Remove the rear muffler section (optional). Caution: Failure to keep the car level while elevated can result in the car slipping off the jack stands!!!

2) For cars equipped with factory rear swaybar: Remove the lower control arm (LCA) pivot bolts on the subframe. Disconnect the endlink bolts at two ends of the swaybar. Remove the swaybar assembly including the stock step bracket from the subframe. For ABS equipped cars: Remove ABS sensor wire bracket (2 bolts each side) from the subframe. (See Figure 1.)

3) For cars equipped with factory rear swaybar: Remove the spot-welded nuts from the upper & lower swaybar mount from inside the subframe (Figure 2). The nut can be removed by using a chisel and a hammer (Figure 3). Strike the welds directly until the nuts are removed. Or from the outside of the subframe, thread on an M8 bolt half way and hit the bolt head with a hammer. Be careful not to damage the sheet metal. For ABS equipped cars: Remove the lower ABS sensor wire weld-nut in the same manner.

4) Temporarily place the nut plate inside the subframe (Figure 4) and install the support plate to the nut plate (See Figure 5). Adjust the support plate so that it is perpendicular to the ground. Mark the center of the lower mounting hole on the subframe with a pen.

5) Remove both the support and nut plates. With an electric drill and a 3/8" drill bit, drill a new hole for the lower mounting hole at the marked center location (See Figure 5.). The new hole may overlap the existing ABS sensor bracket hole. In which case, enlarge the ABS bracket hole until the correct alignment is reached. Enlarge the upper mounting hole with the same size drill bit.

6) Insert the Type-R endlink bushing and bushing collar into each end of the Type-R swaybar (Figure 7). Apply a coat of hi-temp grease on the inside surface of the swaybar bushing to prevent squeaking noise. Place the bushing over the swaybar, then place swaybar bushing bracket over bushing.

7) Attach the Type-R swaybar to the stock endlinks using bolts removed in step 2, but do not torque down the bolts. Assemble the support plate and the 5/16" mounting bolt/washer over the bushing bracket.

8) Install the swaybar assembly onto the subframe with the nut plate inside the subframe. (See Figure 8.) Install the lower mounting bolt and washer. Torque down the upper and lower bolts alternately to 16 ft-lb.

9) For ABS equipped cars: Trim the ABS sensor wire bracket so that only the upper mount hole remains (Figure 9). Reinstall the ABS sensor wire.

10) Reinstall the LCA pivot bolts and muffler. Lower the car and torque the endlink bolts to the manufacturer's specifications (16 ft-lb). Test drive the vehicle and re-torque all bolts after test drive.

Warning: The Integra Type-R rear swaybar will cause the car more likely to oversteer!!! Use extreme caution when test driving and do not push the limit of the vehicle until you are acquainted with the new setup.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Hey Bumnah, I emailed you and I have just checked out the very informative layout of pics, looks really easy to install...can't wait till I get my ITR bar in also. oh and what bushing kit are you using? is it the ES kit? Thanks!!

senpai

How about for a 6G Civic EX coupe?

I know the 'hybrid' way, but the beaks kit you guys talk about are for 5G.

GZR4DR

I used the BSQ way. Went to the hardware store, and bought the pieces. Installed it, and in about 1.5 hours i was done. Would have been done sooner if i had an electric saw instead of a hand one.

I previously had the Hybrid way. Then like everyone else, i tore the subframe just a little. Caught it before any major damage. And i didnt even round race. Save your money, do it the BSQ way, and you will be set. I actually used the same bushings and brackets listed in the hybrid page, then used the metal plates from the BSQ kit. Its up to you. If your a do-it-yourself guy, go buy the parts yourself from Home Depot or a local hardware store and save $60. Thats what i did.

SlickRedSi

I keep seeing info on the 5th Generation Civics with Beaks setup but nothing about the 6th Generation Civic setup with beaks. Is there a pic or actually someone did this setup???????

Bumnah

if you are gonna put the itr rear sway bar on the 6th gen just bolt it directly to the subframe. i believe the subframe on the 6th gen is thicker. you don't need a kit to put the itr rear sway bar on the 6th gens.

ToneyTigre

are you sure dood? our 6th gen civics have thicker subframes and wont ripp??

TurboSedan

No, I have a 6th gen and the ITR bar is in my basment because it cracked my subframe. I used the Si endlinks and mounting brackets. I say get a reinforcement kit, or just get the 19mm ST bar.

SlickRedSi

Well actually you need the Endlinks from the Acura Integra Type-R. The SI's endlinks nor the mounting brackets won't work very well without modification. I believe you don't need to modify the endlinks from a ITR. Just a straight fit. There is a Tip and Tricks thing on Club SI site that tells you what to do. If you still have the bar, I may be interested in the bar. How long have you had it and for how much????

TurboSedan

It is not for sale at this point, but if I decide to sell here soon I will let ya know buddy.

Real_E-AT

this is a good honda-tech post! we need more like this!

SlickRedSi

Sounds good to me there good buddy. Actually I am trying to get me a CTR Sway bar(Anti-Roll Bar). I hear they fit up perfectly without any modification. I have a guy looking for me one now. But those damn parts are hard to find. Oh well. Thanks anyway.


[Modified by SlickRedSi, 6:58 PM 10/22/2001]

WykidEH

What's the Website for the Beaks kit?

Jackson

beaks is currently building their website now, they are also in production of the srk for the ek's. i have an ek with my itr bar sitting in my room until the kit comes out. i think it should be within the next week or so, hopefully.
Tony

SlickRedSi

So, they are making a kit for the EK (96-00) model Civics??? And it should be out next week right???

dogpile5

i just did this install on my 95 EG coupe. i must say, the BEAKS SRK is pricey, but well worth the price considering the risk you are taking to the subframe. i took a s*#tload of pics from last weekend and make a writeup on my website. check it out:
http://www.fastasknutz.com/team/justin.html

itrhybrid

Damn you Justin. I need to stay away from you. Now you got me wanting to do this on my car. I keep saying to myself Cam gears first, cam gears first.

James