snowboardgeek1

Here are pics of my modded ITR air box. I got the idea to modify my airbox from BSQ:

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch

The parts you'll need:

4" diameter thin-walled (1/8" wall thickness) PVC pipe ($7.99 for 10 ft. section)
1 - 4" thin-walled 90° PVC long sweep elbow ($3.99)
1 - 4" thin-walled 90° PVC street elbow ($4.29)
1 - No. 4 hub connector/coupler ($6.29)
1 - 4" diameter x 4" long speaker port (this part serves as the air horn) ($1.70 plus $7.00 for shipping)
1 - hose clamp (4.25-4.5" diameter hose clamp) ($1.49 estimated price)
1 – 0.75" wide x 1/8" thick x 10" (approx.) long aluminum stock (this is for the mounting bracket) ($3.29 estimated price for 3" section)
PVC cement ($2.99)
black paint (flat or satin) ($3.99 estimated price)

So the cost is around $40 for all the materials. The hardest thing to find was the thin walled PVC piping to attach to the bottom of the air box. Do it best, Lowes, and Home depot didn't have it in my area. I had to go to a special plumbing store to purchase a 10ft stock. Good thing its cheap.

Pics will be shown below.

I was looking for a CAI for my type R motor. I used to own an AEM Hybrid CAI but I ended up selling it to my neighbor. I honestly didn't like the way the car responded with this intake. The car felt "laggy." I didn't feel any increase of power vs. my AEM 2.5" short ram until 6-6500 RPMs. And the power increase wasn't much at all. I didn't dyno the car so I can't say for sure if there was an increase of power with the AEM hybrid CAI but my butt dyno is pretty damn accurate lol. And my butt dyno told me that the increase in power wasn't enough to justify the big price tag if I were to get another CAI.

So my search for another CAI started on ebay. I found CAI's made for Integra LS/RS as well as 92-95 Civic's. I needed something that had a 3" diameter piping. To make a long story short, here's a thread I started a few days ago.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2165544

I decided to make my own CAI with my Type R intake box. I wanted to make it similar to a comptech icebox as well as a mugen intake box. The Mugen intake box uses 4" diameter piping for the cold air extension, which the comptech box uses 3" piping.

The install wasn't too bad, but it wasn't easy. Most of the time spent was trying to get the intake's cold air extension placed perfectly as well as figuring out a way where the intake box won't hit the hood of the car.

First thing you have to do is cut the thin walled PVC pipe to 7 in. Attach it to the bottom of the intake box with the coupler (it has a worm band around it). Then attach the other two PVC pipes/elbows and have it look similar to this:



Do a test fit and make sure the bottom extension faces the way you want it to. I used the PVC cement to join the bottom two cold air extensions together. Only do this when you're ready to finalize your installation. Also, I had to notch my clutch line bracket to make sure the intake sat down correctly in the engine bay. In addition, I had to install the intake box bracket to the "bottom" of the shock tower bracket. Its hard to explain but the pics are shown below. I had to do this to make sure the intake box sat down as far as it could so the hood would clear. I haven't installed the air horn yet, because it hasn't been shipped, but once I get it in, I'll install it and take pics.

As for performance...I highly recommend this setup. Not only does it look stock which I like, but I feel the throttle response is A LOT better compared to the AEM CAI as well as more power throughout the RPM range. You will definitely feel a difference in torque in the midrange which I felt right away. Again, this is with my highly accurate butt dyno so take it for what its worth. I will dyno this setup vs. the AEM CAI, but it'll be a while before I do this. I want to upgrade a few more things first (header and exhaust) before I bring the car in to get it dyno'd.

For the price in parts, its a worthwhile upgrade if you have a spare airbox. I would consider making a "kit" if there's any interest. I would have to charge at least $60-70.00 considering the time making the kit as well as sourcing the parts, and even then, it might not be worth it to me. Anyhow, here's the pics:

v.i.massive

good write up

VRD^sam

thats awesome, im doing this tomorrow

civic.slow

wtfbbq? really PVC pipe?

why not aluminized steel? not hard to weld

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic.slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtfbbq? really PVC pipe?

why not aluminized steel? not hard to weld </TD></TR></TABLE>

PVC pipe doesn't hold heat like metal of any kind, especially steel, does.



Plus anyone with a a partial brain can do this as opposed to having welding skills to weld up a stell piece in the same shape.

jordanhxc

sorry is this is stupid but..what's the appeal of the stock air box?... just because it's clean?

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jordanhxc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry is this is stupid but..what's the appeal of the stock air box?... just because it's clean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like it for it's stock looks, it's easy to customize and the filters are cheap ad easy to find.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jordanhxc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry is this is stupid but..what's the appeal of the stock air box?... just because it's clean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a more factory look, which appeals to a lot of people, and since the PVC is plastic and the airbox is plastic, and the tubing is rubber there is very little heat soak and transfer to the air being drawn into the engine.

sicones

enjoy the toxic gases PVC pipe gives off when it heats up, (I know its on the "cold air" section part), but PCV pipe still has no place being on a car

you could have done the same thing with mandrel bends of metal or aluminum piping and silicone couplers, (the proper way)

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">enjoy the toxic gases PVC pipe gives off when it heats up, (I know its on the "cold air" section part), but PCV pipe still has no place being on a car

you could have done the same thing with mandrel bends of metal or aluminum piping and silicone couplers, (the proper way)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you tell us at what temperature PVC starts to give off toxic fumes?

snowboardgeek1

I highly doubt the PVC will get heated up enough to give off toxic gases. If you guys want to do it with mandrel bend pipes, go right ahead. Whatever floats your boat.

p nut

http://www.madsci.org/posts/ar....html

I don't think anyone needs to worry about the PVC pipe catching on fire and inhaling the fumes. If it's hot enough that that part of the intake catches fire, you've got a lot more to worry about.

sicones

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you tell us at what temperature PVC starts to give off toxic fumes?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

PVC should never be heated past ~150*F, it probably gives off fumes past 500*+ (hence my comment was kinda a joke), and since that pipe is under the air box, almost completely out of the engine bay, it will proably never reach past 100*. Sooo your heat soaking in the metal comment is also


I would NEVER put PVC pipe on my car, it goes against every thing I belive in, mild steel mandrel bends are so cheap theres no reason not to use it

snowboardgeek1

Ok, so whats the point you're trying to make? First you say that I should enjoy having the toxic fumes emitting then you correct yourself saying since the piping is below the intake box, it probably never would reach past 100degrees F. Is your point just to say I should have just made it with mandrel bend piping?

If so, then I'll address that point. I didn't use mandrel bend mild steel piping because I don't have the tools to weld, I don't have anything that could cut the piping, and I just don't feel like doing it that way. The way I did it fit my needs and it was easy to do. The price associated with the materials is probably negligent.

If you use aluminum bends, how would you attach it to the bottom of the airbox? The hole in the bottom of the airbox is not circular, its more of an oval shape. Unless you cut that piece off and use fiberglass to make it to a perfect circle so the mild steel piping can fit around or under it. That seems like a PITA to me. Definitely seems to be more R&D but you're right, it'd probably hold up better.

Considering I braced my cold air extension pretty well (I didn't post pics of the brace but when I get back underneath the car, I'll take pics) I don't see the cold air extension coming off anytime soon. Its held on fairly tight.

snowboardgeek1

I totally agree.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

snowboardgeek1: I and most people who posted like what you did, it's pretty crafty and it saved the expense of buying an AM cold air box. There's always going to be a person that disagrees with what anyone does, which is opinion, so just ignore them. Nice thread and I'm sure the CAI will work nice!

snowboardgeek1

Oh I'm not offended at all. Everyone has their own opinion. I was just trying to address his point/concern. To each his own, I always say.

lol

snowboardgeek1

I also have another idea in mind. I purchased two air horns. I might cut a 4" circle to the bottom of the airbox, and attach one of the airhorns to it. That'll make it a true 4" cold air extension and there will be no kinks as there is now since I had to "shape" the PVC pipe to attach to the intake. To attach the air horn to the bottom of the intake box, you'd just have to secure it with screws/nuts & bolts or some plastic weld. Should be pretty easy.

sicones

I respect your responce, but I would never use PVC pipe, that is all...

snowboardgeek1

B18C5-EH2

A simple "I would have never used PVC pipe as I think it's ghetto" would have been a better reply than some "toxic fumes" reply.

snowboardgeek1

lol

93_EH3

This is an awesome write-up. I've been looking to do this same Integra airbox setup, but I'm trying to make it work on my 'still running strong' D16Z6 in my '93 Si. A/C lines kind of get in the way...

Just FYI, though, did anyone realize that by "cracking" open (i.e. pounding a flat head screwdriver into the seam of the box itself) the factory Integra resonator chamber (the ugly white box with black tubing), a factory fresh air tube can be found, which has an air horn on the end of it? Granted, it's not as large in diameter and the thing points upwards, but you can easily modify this with a hacksaw and a silicone coupler. Check it out:






Hope this helps!


Modified by 93_EH3 at 2:32 PM 12/7/2007

snowboardgeek1

I remember seeing that when I had an integra. You're still limited to that size of piping which is I believe 2.5-2.75". I like how the pipe connects to the bottom of the airbox cleanly though.

I still would try to do the mods I have done. You'll notice a pretty big difference in power. Going from 2.5/2.75" to 4" is a huge difference.

ware