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The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions

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Old 08-16-2003, 02:15 PM
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Default The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions

I did some searchin on this matter and found a lot of good arguements. I jus like to get some stuff straight before anything.

Im planning on resurfacing my rotors, jus because its a temporary solution untill I can save enuff for brembos. Now, Im also planning on new pads jus because I would figure buying new pads would also help decrease warpage since the rotors will be thinner, and more prone to warpin.
Ive search that this is good because the pad will have a fresh, cleaner, even rotor to chomp on. But I also searched that rotors and pads should be worn into each other because this will help break them in.

Which would you do, of have you done?
Also, for those who have resurfaced, if you bring your own (new) pads in won't they install it for free because it's normal process to reinstall everything?
Also, I have kyokugens and I do NOT have a torque wrench, I jus tighten by hand pretty hard and I hear this can affect rotors? I dont wanna strip my lugs but I cant help but wonder what torque specs on lugs have to do with rotors.

Thanks guys!
Old 08-16-2003, 02:22 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (SLeePeR012)

It's always good to resurface the rotors, yes.

Are you doing this yourself??? Most auto places will resurface rotors for about 10 bucks a piece.

And about the torquing....

The lugs squeeze the rotors between the hubs and the wheels. If the lugs are unevenlly torqued, the wheel can "wobble" supposedly and cause uneven wear on the rotor. It's a good idea to torque them....if you don't have a torque wrench, most big tire shops will torque them for you for free. Just bring in your car and then snug them up for you

to break them in right...drive the car normal for about 500 miles. After this, do a set of stops from about 60 mph increasing pedal pressure each time until you actually lock up the tires. This will break in the rotors/pads to each other "coreectly"....

first time, use about 1/4 pedal pressure to stop, then 3/8's, then 1/2, then 3/4's, then full pressure.
Old 08-16-2003, 02:36 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (Emerika)

yes you will probibly want to change the pads as well as they might not have worn completly evenly and combined with resurfaced even rotors the pads might cause damage to the rotors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The lugs squeeze the rotors between the hubs and the wheels. If the lugs are unevenlly torqued, the wheel can "wobble" supposedly and cause uneven wear on the rotor. It's a good idea to torque them....if you don't have a torque wrench, most big tire shops will torque them for you for free. Just bring in your car and then snug them up for you
</TD></TR></TABLE>

right on, i have a torque wrench so i always keep them at an even 75ft-lbs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to break them in right...drive the car normal for about 500 miles. After this, do a set of stops from about 60 mph increasing pedal pressure each time until you actually lock up the tires. This will break in the rotors/pads to each other "coreectly"....

first time, use about 1/4 pedal pressure to stop, then 3/8's, then 1/2, then 3/4's, then full pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i did my breakin a little different and hear that its ok to do it both ways, my way i installed the pads after work, drove home normally came back the next day and after work i went out on the auto cross track and gave em hell. they seem to have worn evenly and there is no squeeking.
Old 08-16-2003, 02:39 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (tek_civic)

haha. If you're gonna brake your car hard, then break in the rotors hard.


Many different ways to do it...kinda like breaking in engines.
Old 08-16-2003, 02:59 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (Emerika)

lol ya, many people say take it easy on an engine rebuild for break in, but when we rebuild the race engines at the track, once their done its 10 laps at 6k rpm. probibly not the best way to do it if you buy a jdm motor and its been sittin for a couple years.

hey when you tuned your buddies fpr, did you have the vacume(boost) line attached or did you pinch it off?
Old 08-17-2003, 12:04 AM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (tek_civic)

Yea Im gonna get it done someplace around town.
So pads and rotors, same time, A-OK.
Would you think they would install new pads (supplied by me) free? Basically is paying for resurfaced rotors, usually like 10 bucks a rotor, also include labor?

Also, I think our lugs are supposed to be 85lb-ft? Is this correct?

Thanks for all the info guys.
Old 08-17-2003, 12:45 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (SLeePeR012)

Emerika, I kno you're online.....

*Bump
Old 08-17-2003, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: The issue on: Resurface rotors and Brake other questions (SLeePeR012)

when are you planning on getting your new brakes? the brembros or whateve you're about to get.
if i were you and needed new pads but planning on getting new brakes soon i would jus buy some
cheapo pads and jus throw them on until the new ****. jus to keep things short to break in pads it only
takes about 20 good stops. imo thats all they need.
Old 08-17-2003, 01:24 PM
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I'd be careful with the kyokugens, they're prone to be stripped by the key. You might end up with a lug nut stuck for good.
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