RJason1111

Thanks everyone for contributing to this site. It has helped me quadruple my car knowledge in the last couple months. I am still a noob though.

I have been troubleshooting a loss of power in hot weather and at freeway speeds. When traveling 70 mph on the freeway, or even 50 mph in town for that matter. If I floor the throttle, the car "slowly begins" to pick up speed. Example, from 70 to 80 mph can take 10 seconds (first 3 seconds nothing happens). I remember my car having more power 8 years ago when I bought it... LOL.

Another symptom that might be related is the car seems to have an awesome feel and power when it's 50 degrees F outside, and a consistent idle of 850 RPMs.... When it's hot outside, 85 degrees F or so, the idle varies, one minute it's 600, five minutes later it's 700, five minutes later it's 650. And the awesome feel and power are gone. The car simply loses power when the outside temps are warm.

So, here's what I know and have done, based on what I've learned here...

D15B7 '94 Civic LX 1.5L (180K on it, bought at 110K, love civics)

Recent work: timing adjusted, radiator replaced, MTF changed, Oil/filter changed, new plugs/wires/dist/cap/PCV/air filter/fuel filter, PSF changed, new Raxles axles, cleaned IACV, tightened doughnut in FITV, water/steam treated combustion chamber through brake booster vacuum. :-)

Work To Be Done Still: Auto-RX in oil. Can of B-12 in fuel tank. Double Check Timing. Valve Adjustment.

Here's where I need advice, please. Interpreting Compression Test.

Results of compression test. It took 12-14 cranks to get each cylinder to stabilize on the highest reading. Most cylinders had a low first puff and slowly rose up in compression (example: 60, 90, 120, 145, 155, 165, 180, 190, 195, 196, 197, 198). Fuel pump disabled, distributor disconnected, throttle to the floor, ran the test twice.

(Cylinder) - First Puff/Max 1/Max 2

(#1) - 60/199/203
(#2) - 60/195/203
(#3) - 60/194/209
(#4) - 60/204/207

Manual says 135 MIN, 185 NORMAL. Manual also says high readings could be due to carbon buildup. I've also read that the first puff should be at least half of the max ???

WET TEST increase about 30 PSI per cylinder. (i.e.. #2 was 235 WET)

Side Note: I ran extensive vacuum tests/checks and everything is good. The gauge read about 18 constantly. Flooring the throttle made the vacuum gauge jump down to zero. Releasing the throttle caused it to jump up to like 28, and quickly back down to stabilize at 18.

Strong Compression, good vacuum, coolant keeping temps good, I'm down to fuel supply as my problem. At this point I'm really hoping the can of B-12 in the gas tank will fix my problems, but I wanted a pro here to tell me based off the compression test if my Engine is still good.

As a total "student" to this stuff at this point. I could use some advice.

Thanks, Robert

angel_i

it might be that you are used to driving your car.

Former User

Welcome.

Tough problem. Can I assume you have no CEL codes?

Other items to consider:

-Faulty coil and/or igniter unit in the distributor. As I understand it, the coil and igniter last about 150K miles.

-Faulty distributor sensors, though this usually throws a CEL code.

-Clogged cat or fuel injectors

RJason1111

Thanks Ron,

I'm going to test the coil and ignitor as per the Haynes manual.

For now, it turns out I have bigger problems. The valve cover leak has, over the years, caused the back plastic on the timing belt cover go soft. In an attempt to get the cover off and check the timing, I bent the plastic up good enough to cause it to rub against the gears. The GOOD news is I am about 65K into this timing belt, so I'm due anyway.

I can buy the cover, belt, tensioner, and water pump online for about $200 shipped, and find an inexpensive mechanic to replace it for $300. Totaling $500.

Any mechanic can handle a Honda timing belt right? it's not something I would need to take to a honda specialist.

Oh, the things that need attention at 180K are numerous.

Sorry, to take this thread off on a tangent.

Robert

Murk 'EM

honda timing is the easiest timing belt a mechanic can do.
as for your compression problems you probably have carbon built up on the piston.. what do your plugs look like cause the plugs are your eye in to the combustion chamber, they tell you whats going on in side