Porcaporcaporca

Hi everyone, I tried searching the threads but couldn't find anything same with the google. 1992 civic dx 1.5 non-vtec Automatic

Here's my issue, Ive had the car over a year now and just recently it has been leaving me stranded a few times. The first time it happened I was driving like normal, nothing crazy (its an automatic) when all of a sudden i notice the RPM's dropped and car shuts off. Almost as i had turned the key off. Radio was on all lights where on and everything normal. It was just the engine that tuned off on me. Luckily i was able to coast off enough to get on the shoulder safely.

I turned the key back and tried to turn it on (tried several times), all i got was the engine cranking but not able to turn it over. looking under the hood there was nothing out of the ordinary everything looked good, i didnt know what to do. I end up calling for someone to pick me up and while i was waiting i figured to try it one more time ( about 15 minutes had passed by at this point) and boom the car turned on as if nothing was wrong and i was on my way again, straight home.


trouble shooting/Replicating the issue
-normal driving (turns off maybe after 30min sometimes not at all)
-while driving accelerate as to pass a car (more than often this is when it shuts off)
-letting the car run on idle on the driveway (maybe after 30 minutes sometimes longer, it starts to spurt and shuts off ) <im guessing fuel>

In all of these occasions, the car would not start back up unless i let it sit for a couple minutes to an hour.


Things i've done since
-new fuel relay switch
-spark plugs /cables/dizzy cap
-fuel filter
-timing belt & water pump (why not, i was already there.
-thermostat

Lately
Exhaust fumes smell a little rich. Maybe its not having full combustion of the mixture.

Future plans
-New fuel pump
-new distributor

I have to pass smog this year and taking it to do the test only the tech said it was producing too many emissions and wouldnt pass 2-3 test that are required in Cali.

Any help would be awesome guys, maybe someone has had this issue or a better understanding of what it may be that is causing this for me and point me into that direction


Thanks everyone

K-G

Just went through something similar. I had two fully charged good batteries I thought were bad.
Turns out my alternator wasn’t properly charging my battery.
What would happen is my full battery would run the car fine.
As the battery died lights got dim and it started to sputter like crazy and my rpm gauge goes nuts then dies.
If the car sat for an hour or so it will start up right and drive for 10 mins without and issue then start acting up again.
If I was able to start the car up and shut it off it wouldn’t turn back on again unless it sat.
But my motor never stalled on me. Just wouldn’t be able to give more than 10% throttle cuz it would sputter.

K-G

Ps: autozone does alternator testing but I don’t know how accurate they are.
when I bought my type s I had a bad battery and their system said the battery was good. Replaced battery and never had starting problem again. And she sits for weeks sometimes now

LiteraCola

This is a classic case of throwing money at a problem, hoping that it'll fix itself. An issue like this takes a little testing a troubleshooting. Have you checked/tested anything? I've attached a photo from my Factory Service Manual (I only have a 96-00 FSM, but yours should be about the same) for testing the ignition coil and ignition control module. Get yourself a multi-meter and let us know what you find. I've got a feeling one of these may be your issue, especially since this issue mainly arises when the car is hot.

Good looking hatch, by the way.

LiteraCola

As for your issue, get yourself a multi-meter too. An easy way to test your battery and alternator is to first check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine off (Should be around 12V). Start the car and check the voltage at the battery again. the voltage should be around 14V). If the battery voltage drops while the car is running, then your alternator isn't doing its job of charging the battery. The same could be said for too much voltage at the battery with the engine running....

mk378

As @LiteraCola said, a common problem is for the ICM inside the distributor to stop working when it is hot then work again when it cools off. And also as the others said, quit "parts changing" and do some tests before buying more parts.

When it will not start, do the cranks but won't start testing drill. Again you have to do these tests after it has stalled, during the time while it will not start. Testing when everything is working OK won't find anything.
* Turn key on but don't crank. Check that the CEL cycles on and back off and the fuel pump primes.
* Pull the brake handle up. The "brake" warning light should be on when the key is on and while cranking. This light is on the same circuit as the ignition.
* Check for spark at one or more of the plug wires, using spark tester or a spare spark plug. If you use a plug, the spark should be bright white, not a little yellow or blue one.
* Crank for 15 seconds continuously, then without turning the key off put a jumper in the ECU test plug and see if any codes are set.

K-G

fixed it yesterday. First my alternator went and then my TPS went. Thanks for the reply though ! This is why I always keep my extra parts. Never sold my single cam lol

Porcaporcaporca

Thanks for this, I will run these test as soon as i get back home. Unfortunately it wont be for another 2 months because im out for work, but Ill update this thread once i do it. other than the fuel relay, everyting else needed to be done. i shouldve took pics of the timing belt. that thing wasnt looking good .

Thanks again to you and everyone else

Alex98

New distributor should fix this problem. Had the exact same symptoms on my integra. I replaced a bunch of parts as well before giving up and taking it to my mechanic. He said I was getting intermittent power to the plugs and changed out the distributor. Problem solved.