Integra Rear Disc Conversion on an EG hatch. (lots of pics)
03-27-2004, 01:12 PM
#26
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Re: (toEknEEg)
Originally Posted by Emong3
Nice Post and car!
I have some questions:
1. To convert it to disk brakes, do you have to replace the whole trailing arm assy?
2. How about cable sor the e-brake, did you replace it too or did the old cable bolt on?
Thanks!
I have some questions:
1. To convert it to disk brakes, do you have to replace the whole trailing arm assy?
2. How about cable sor the e-brake, did you replace it too or did the old cable bolt on?
Thanks!
2. the brake cables was from the integra also. 4 door.
Originally Posted by Hybrid93Hatch
Now I have no excuse not to install the GSR discs sitting in the garage
Great write-up!! Nice hatch. Kind of exotic for me. I really loved the silver look you had 2 years ago.
Great write-up!! Nice hatch. Kind of exotic for me. I really loved the silver look you had 2 years ago.
Originally Posted by Lscivichatch92
dude change that color to make it a little more low profile cuz them cops gonna get you everytime with ur car like that
j/k. but seriously i havent got harassed by the cops and ive had this color for a little over a year now. knock on wood
Originally Posted by Emerika
4 nuts behind firewall, and a clip and pin that holds the BB onto the brake arm
but the two top nuts are a PITA to get off. i had to use extensions with a swivel head to reach the nut.
Originally Posted by EGhatched
do you have to change out the rear brake lines when doing this swap. I"m about to do a swap from a 00 si.
Originally Posted by pdiggitydogg
gloves?? Sissy 
good write-up.......I forgot to do mine
good write-up.......I forgot to do mine
Originally Posted by wisjdmhonda
I wanna do this to my hatch. Thanks for the info. p.s. i see you have some Heineken beer bottle caps on your shift boot.
. see avatar. 
Originally Posted by JDM Ninja
Nice write-up
Which ebrake cables did you use?
Which ebrake cables did you use?
Originally Posted by dohc notec
good write up i have done this to my friends EK. also good chioce on the color. my car is a samba green del sol which is similar in color
to being different
to being different
03-27-2004, 01:44 PM
#27
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Re: Integra Rear Disc Conversion on an EG hatch. (=GAMEOVA=)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by =GAMEOVA= »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
^finally unscrew the 10mm for the brake line. ......................
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must use a <U>http://FLARE NUT WRENCH</U> for the brake lines. If you actually did get away with using a normal 10mm then congrajufuckinglations, I'm not gonna argue with you, just thought I had to mention this as I now have to remove one of my brake lines with vice grips.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT
edit..... nice writeup btw.
edit again... don't mean to sound harsh, still just a little pissed as I was told it was unnecessary...
^finally unscrew the 10mm for the brake line. ......................
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must use a <U>http://FLARE NUT WRENCH</U> for the brake lines. If you actually did get away with using a normal 10mm then congrajufuckinglations, I'm not gonna argue with you, just thought I had to mention this as I now have to remove one of my brake lines with vice grips.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT
edit..... nice writeup btw.
edit again... don't mean to sound harsh, still just a little pissed as I was told it was unnecessary...
03-27-2004, 03:47 PM
#30
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Re: Integra Rear Disc Conversion on an EG hatch. (miahmouse)
didnt have the flared one so i use the regular open end. it works but just be careful not to strip it with the regular wrench
03-27-2004, 06:44 PM
#33
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Re: (Ej6andslow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ej6andslow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.importrp.com
$22.99 for rear rotors
</TD></TR></TABLE>
$21.58 http://www.nopionline.com
$22.99 for rear rotors
</TD></TR></TABLE>
$21.58 http://www.nopionline.com
11-19-2004, 06:52 PM
#38
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Re: Integra Rear Disc Conversion on an EG hatch. ([G][A][M][E])
I did that Integ' armrest thing too. After a while, it just didn't look right where they joined. So, I just took it off.
Didn't know NOPI was still around. Nice work.
Didn't know NOPI was still around. Nice work.
11-20-2004, 01:20 PM
#40
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Re: Integra Rear Disc Conversion on an EG hatch. ([G][A][M][E])
Great post. I am in the process of droppin a 22 in my car and putting rear disc conversion in.
I am in the process of droppin a 22 in my car and putting rear disc conversion in.
11-21-2004, 07:19 AM
#42
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Re: Re: (HatchbackSqueegee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchbackSqueegee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bumb for parts list that no one knows</TD></TR></TABLE>
11-22-2004, 11:25 AM
#44
most hood white kid
I have to tend with the other guys and say, that I liked your car better when it was silver with the 99-00 Si wheels, but hey man whatever floats your boat. Your car is stil super nice and that was a very thorough right up...I give it two thumbs up man!!
11-23-2004, 07:13 AM
#45
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Re: (egcoupe94)
maybe, maybe just one day I'll find the parts list for this project so I can do this to my own car until then I'll bump this post until I find the answer !?! 
11-23-2004, 07:24 AM
#47
Re: (HatchbackSqueegee)
If you fools would just look, I posted this a while ago in the <U>"Helpful FAQ's" </U>sticky thread at the top of this forum... Damn! 
Originally Posted by 94eg!
I have done the rear disc swap on my 94 civic cx. If you buy your parts used you will have to replace the rotors, pads, replace pad retaining springs & guides, and clean and relube the caliper guide pins (just letting you know since it may seem the only thing you have to buy is the swap). I bought mine from here
http://gallery.andale.com/stor...CatId=
They got the parts here in a week (shipping is super cheap), and after all the above servicing, worked great. The best part is that the rear disc swap comes with the 4040 (disc brake) proportioning valve (very difficult to install since you can't switch the mounting brackets with the civic one). Plus, import atuo salvage has the best customer service ever. If you have any problems just e-mail them
Costs:
Rear disc swap---------------$270 shipped from http://www.importautosalvage.com (with 4040 valve)
Front disc swap---------------$75 + shipping from http://www.hmotorsonline.com (as advertised)
New Brembo Rotors----------$20-$30 each at http://www.nopi.com (oem replacements)
New Axiss Ultimate Pads-----$20-$30 a pair at http://www.nopi.com
New caliper hardware--------$20 at autozone
Disc Brake Lube--------------$1 per packet at autozone (2 needed)
Brake Fluid--------------------$5 at autozone (get big bottle)
10mm Flare nut wrench------$3 at pep boys (a must for brake line nuts)
10 ft small clear tube---------$2 at home depot (cut into 4 pieces bleeding brakes)
Brake Cleaner-----------------$2 at autozone (cleans of new rotors)
Options:
Engine paint -------------$5 at autozone (paint calipers after clean up)
wire cup brush-----------$5 at lowes (clean up rust on hubs and calipers)
Hub Rings----------------$15 from http://www.tires.com (help keep your wheels balanced)
Notes:
If you do the front brakes you will need the 1991 civic ex 4 door's brake master cylinder (15/16)
It can be tricky to mount the drivers side e-brake cables from the integra. I had to purchase a $2 body bolt (looks like a black bee hive with a washer) from lowes to mount one of the brackets under the car into an existing chassis drain hole.
Depending on what pads you use, follow the manufacturers break-in process.
Since you will be replacing the lower balljoint you don't have to be particularly carful separating it, but the upper balljoints & tie rod balljoints will be reused. Make sure whatever tool you use to separate them doesn't damage them. Pickle fork bad (tears boots)... Ball joint separator good. It seems, however, the last 3 times I rented checkers front end kit, the ball joint tool was missing the cup that sits on the balljoints stud, and this led to the destruction of two of my ball joint studs making it impossible to get the suspension back together. Also be extra carful not to damage the castle nuts with the separator either. This will happen if the separator is resting on the nut instead of the stud (the nut should be screwed on far enough to keep the separator from sliding off the stud, but should not receive direct pressure).
Sorry to be long winded, but I've had bad experiences with balljoints
I almost forgot... If you are removing the rear lower arms use a ton of pb blaster or wd40 on the lower shock mounting bolts, and let it soak as long as possible (some guys wait over night). When I went to remove the bolt that connects the shock to the LCA, it just snaped the head right off (the bolts rust to the inside of the bushings). This meant that I had to buy a new shock or find someone to cut the old arm off the shock (I tried 3 different places and no one would help). I opted for a set of koni yellows and all new bolts instead. If all the bolts come out fine, order some replacements for the more rusty ones from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and add a little anti-sieze goo to the non threaded parts.
Any questions just e-mail me.
http://gallery.andale.com/stor...CatId=
They got the parts here in a week (shipping is super cheap), and after all the above servicing, worked great. The best part is that the rear disc swap comes with the 4040 (disc brake) proportioning valve (very difficult to install since you can't switch the mounting brackets with the civic one). Plus, import atuo salvage has the best customer service ever. If you have any problems just e-mail them
Costs:
Rear disc swap---------------$270 shipped from http://www.importautosalvage.com (with 4040 valve)
Front disc swap---------------$75 + shipping from http://www.hmotorsonline.com (as advertised)
New Brembo Rotors----------$20-$30 each at http://www.nopi.com (oem replacements)
New Axiss Ultimate Pads-----$20-$30 a pair at http://www.nopi.com
New caliper hardware--------$20 at autozone
Disc Brake Lube--------------$1 per packet at autozone (2 needed)
Brake Fluid--------------------$5 at autozone (get big bottle)
10mm Flare nut wrench------$3 at pep boys (a must for brake line nuts)
10 ft small clear tube---------$2 at home depot (cut into 4 pieces bleeding brakes)
Brake Cleaner-----------------$2 at autozone (cleans of new rotors)
Options:
Engine paint -------------$5 at autozone (paint calipers after clean up)
wire cup brush-----------$5 at lowes (clean up rust on hubs and calipers)
Hub Rings----------------$15 from http://www.tires.com (help keep your wheels balanced)
Notes:
If you do the front brakes you will need the 1991 civic ex 4 door's brake master cylinder (15/16)
It can be tricky to mount the drivers side e-brake cables from the integra. I had to purchase a $2 body bolt (looks like a black bee hive with a washer) from lowes to mount one of the brackets under the car into an existing chassis drain hole.
Depending on what pads you use, follow the manufacturers break-in process.
Since you will be replacing the lower balljoint you don't have to be particularly carful separating it, but the upper balljoints & tie rod balljoints will be reused. Make sure whatever tool you use to separate them doesn't damage them. Pickle fork bad (tears boots)... Ball joint separator good. It seems, however, the last 3 times I rented checkers front end kit, the ball joint tool was missing the cup that sits on the balljoints stud, and this led to the destruction of two of my ball joint studs making it impossible to get the suspension back together. Also be extra carful not to damage the castle nuts with the separator either. This will happen if the separator is resting on the nut instead of the stud (the nut should be screwed on far enough to keep the separator from sliding off the stud, but should not receive direct pressure).
Sorry to be long winded, but I've had bad experiences with balljoints
I almost forgot... If you are removing the rear lower arms use a ton of pb blaster or wd40 on the lower shock mounting bolts, and let it soak as long as possible (some guys wait over night). When I went to remove the bolt that connects the shock to the LCA, it just snaped the head right off (the bolts rust to the inside of the bushings). This meant that I had to buy a new shock or find someone to cut the old arm off the shock (I tried 3 different places and no one would help). I opted for a set of koni yellows and all new bolts instead. If all the bolts come out fine, order some replacements for the more rusty ones from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and add a little anti-sieze goo to the non threaded parts.
Any questions just e-mail me.
11-23-2004, 08:36 AM
#48
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Re: (toEknEEg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you fools would just look, I posted this a while ago in the <U>"Helpful FAQ's" </U>sticky thread at the top of this forum... Damn!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah his was better
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah his was better
11-23-2004, 08:54 AM
#49
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Re: (b18bcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nah his was better </TD></TR></TABLE>
True...lazy *** mechanic hates to read . Plus the bright green hatchie got me in.
nah his was better
</TD></TR></TABLE>True...lazy *** mechanic hates to read
. Plus the bright green hatchie got me in.
11-24-2004, 05:23 AM
#50
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rear disc swap---------------$270.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for clearing things up with specific parts list, your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for clearing things up with specific parts list, your help is greatly appreciated.