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===REPLACING DRUM TO DISC===



^this is my car before the rear disc conversion^



^first off remove this two philips screw holding down the armrest (i just have those 2 holding it in place while OEM armrest has those 2 and 2 more in the rear)



^then roll back the rear carpet until you can see the 2 ebrake cables. unscrew the adjuster nut so you can get some slack to remove those hammer head thingy. after both cables are loose, push the 2 rubber garment things down so that after you remove the two 12mm bolts from underneath, slide under the car and pull the cables free.



^after the cable is out remove the 14mm toe bolt and the two 17mm bolts holding the arm up.^



^then remove the lca bolt (thats the wrong bolt. i meant to remove the bolt to the right of it)



^finally unscrew the 10mm for the brake line. after you unscrew the line get some pliers and remove the clip thats holding it in place. little drops of brake fluid will be dripping so get something to catch it. then remove the two 14mm camber bolts and the whole trailing arm should start to drop. ( in this case, as i was removing the bolts, i brace the trailing arm on my thighs.^



^should look like this after removal. (sorry for the crooked pic. i was tired)^



^finished. one side that is . as for installing, just follow the steps in reverse.^

===REPLACING ROTORS===



^thats what happens when its been in the junkyard for a whiles^



^first remove the two 10mm bolts holding the sheild thing up top. then remove the two 12mm bolts holding the caliper. ^



^then remove the two 14mm bolts holding that thingy? (the thing the pads seat on)^



^should look like this after^



^those two rotor screws didnt have a chance to strip. (thats my hoodrich mini) ^



^brembo blanks from nopionline $47(great place. fast shipping )

after you mount the new rotors on, reverse the steps. i know i missed some steps, as in bleeding, pumping, installing pads, refilling fluids, but you get the idea. this post too some time so you guys enjoy



finished both sides.



^while im posting pics, here's my car a few months back^



^and heres it is 2 years ago when i had the b18b, silverstone metallic that i enjoyed for 2 months before someone reversed into my driver fender and door^



^now it been thru a major makeover. dont mind the valvecover and mounts. they're black now.^

diearzte2

Awesome. These are the DIYs I dont mind seeing. None of that ricey bs

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diearzte2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome. These are the DIYs I dont mind seeing. None of that ricey bs

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going have another one sometime this week on upgrading your MC/Booster. I didn have enough time because i had to go to work today. Im probably going to do it this weekend when im free.

AmginE

hey good post.

your car is too bright for my taste though.

JDMlyfestyle

dont you have to get a different proportioning valve when doing a rear brake conversion? and what MC/booster is an upgrade from an EG

G U E C O

nice wirte up. i liked the color before, but thats my opinion so who cares right.

Hondas are us

IMO- back to silver....

good write up, nice to see some that are actualy usefull upgrades every now and then

stripes777

how much were all the parts and how long did it take u? im going to do this, but imma save up for new springs and shocks first. did u change ya prop. valve?

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont you have to get a different proportioning valve when doing a rear brake conversion? and what MC/booster is an upgrade from an EG</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont have to but itll help. right now im running the stock mc/booster and pv. its stops pretty good right now. im going to install either the nonabs mc/booster or the R mc/booster that i got from a friend sometime this week.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock93cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice wirte up. i liked the color before, but thats my opinion so who cares right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks. and yup thats your opinion

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondasareus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO- back to silver....</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah never sport the same paint twice. IMO i rather custom paint over OEM. next color will be some more kandy. its cheaper.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stripes777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much were all the parts and how long did it take u? im going to do this, but imma save up for new springs and shocks first. did u change ya prop. valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$150 for the whole trailing arm from the junk yard. $46 for the rotors. type R mc/booster, RS mc/booster, and 4040 freebie from some friends around the way. im not sure whic mc/booster i will install yet. as for how long, about 4 hrs by myself maybe 3½ if i didnt take pics. but i had my brother come out after and pump the brakes

Emong3

Nice Post and car!
I have some questions:
1. To convert it to disk brakes, do you have to replace the whole trailing arm assy?
2. How about cable sor the e-brake, did you replace it too or did the old cable bolt on?
Thanks!

mycivicstoo(s)low

Wow! That's really green!

Nice car
Nice howto

EGlovr

good write up mang. props to a good lookin car too

Fuster_Cluck

Now I have no excuse not to install the GSR discs sitting in the garage

Great write-up!! Nice hatch. Kind of exotic for me. I really loved the silver look you had 2 years ago.

Lscivichatch92

dude change that color to make it a little more low profile cuz them cops gonna get you everytime with ur car like that

Ricey McRicerton

Good writeup. A little more thorough than mine to say the least. to you for taking all those pictures.

As far as the MC/BB and prop valve goes. With the 4040 prop valve you just undo the lines you have and rehook the lines into the new prop valve. No flaring required.

Same with the new MC. It's 2 bolts to hold it to the BB and then a couple of nuts to get the hard lines out.

I don't know how to get the BB out.

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know how to get the BB out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
4 nuts behind firewall, and a clip and pin that holds the BB onto the brake arm

SIowner

nice right up

EGhatched

do you have to change out the rear brake lines when doing this swap. I"m about to do a swap from a 00 si.

pdiggitydogg

gloves?? Sissy

good write-up.......I forgot to do mine

wisjdmhonda

I wanna do this to my hatch. Thanks for the info. p.s. i see you have some Heineken beer bottle caps on your shift boot.

Street Ghost

Nice write-up

Which ebrake cables did you use?

dohc notec

good write up i have done this to my friends EK. also good chioce on the color. my car is a samba green del sol which is similar in color

to being different

lsvtec hatch05

good write up. i have rear discs for mine but work takes up too much time for me to actually take the time to do it

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGhatched &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to change out the rear brake lines when doing this swap. I"m about to do a swap from a 00 si.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. You will need the rear brake lines. I used some ITR E-brake cables and can't get them to release all the way....I think...I dunno. I'm still in the middle of it and am kinda stuck.

toEknEEg

i JUST finished my FULL brake swap on my car including MC/booster and prop valve. ill be posting up tomorrow morning. im tired as hell right now

nice write up though look for mine tomorrow afternoon