pootie.teng

i've just recently installed integra rear disc brakes onto my 97 hatch...i've notice that the rotor seems to not have a lot of wear on them cause the calipers might not be clamping down on them...like, the rust that was there when i installed them is still there...and i've driven about 5k miles on them already...i've blead the brakes when i got them and then i blead them again bout a couple of weeks afterwards too...still seems they aren't clamping down well...

any help would be great...

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Does your car brake fine?

pootie.teng

yea it does...its just the rear brakes that is like that...fronts are fine...just wondering why the rust hasn't worn down yet on the back...i don't think its normal...

aak

i'm also having the same thing happen on mine. i swapped the bb/mc from the gsr as well. brakes feel great...soooo much better than before. i'm still using the stock civic prop valve. could that have anything to do with it?

pootie.teng

bump for more help...

sinister6

your rear brake is drum in original i suppose? although it might be weird that clamp just a little. u might as well change the prop valve.

BLUE EH3

pootie.teng

yea it was orignally a drum...i was think'n bout changing it to, but someone told me i didn't have too...thought they were the same as an si...and that only if you did it on an eg that you have to change the proportioning valve...

tracebuzta

if you slam on the brakes will they lock up? and does the ebrake hold the car still?

pootie.teng

yea e-brakes work fine and holds the car still even on a steep hill...well i don't know if the rear brakes lock up when i slam on the brakes but i know for sure the fronts do...

tracebuzta

thats really odd. i have integra rear brakes on my 96 hatch. and im using the stock bb/mc and i switched out the prop valve.

the prop valves looked the exact same but i swapped anyways. u could try that maybe.

my rears clamp down pretty hard

maybe new pads and rotors would help

pootie.teng

yea i'll try the prop valve out and see if it solves my problem...if not i'll let everyone know...by the way which prop valve did you use...

tracebuzta

4040 from an si

PhatBoy5015

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teckno_geek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i'll try the prop valve out and see if it solves my problem...if not i'll let everyone know...by the way which prop valve did you use...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't swap the proportioning valves. It won't help anything. If you check the OEM part numbers, all 96-00 Civic prop. valves are the same.

rogue420

if the pads arn't contacting the rotors at all(which sounds like the case), maybe the pistons in the calipers are siezed. you should take them off and test them.

pootie.teng

see that what i thought...i kind of figure they were the same...and yea i'll try to see if they are siezed...any idea on how to do this test...i'm assuming that i take off the calipers and then press the brakes alittle and see if they come out and if not then i have a problem...but then i'm gonna try to bleed the brakes again maybe use like 2 big bottles of brake fluid to bleed the rear brakes...if that fails too then i'll pull my gun out and just shot the dang thing...**** is fustrating me...thought i'd put better brakes on so i'll brake better but seems total opposite...

yecora

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatBoy5015 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't swap the proportioning valves. It won't help anything. If you check the OEM part numbers, all 96-00 Civic prop. valves are the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, prop valves for drum brakes and for disk brakes are different. On EDM civics.


To post creator - are you sure that calipers works fine? Change pads, and in process try to understand, how easily brake piston goes in caliper.

And anyway, if car stops fine and only rusty disks are annoing u, just leave e-brakes on for a few minutes on road once a day

pootie.teng

yea it is annoying...but thanks man...i'd didn't really want to chang the pads cause they have alot of meat left on them...i'll take them off and then push back the caliper and then i'll see if it works or not...thanks...

aak

i have brand new hawk pads, and the calipers turned in when i installed everything. still have stock prop valve(97LX 4DR), but car stops awesome. i can definitly tell it's not just the fronts working. also...just turned rotors before i put the pads on. some more help? and i've also been autocrossing with this setup twice, so you know i've used the brakes good and hard. still have the rust rings.

pootie.teng

so your saying that this problem is normal...cause you say you still have the rust on your rear brakes too...

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and see if you can remove the caliper pins by hand. If you can't, then they're seized.

The piston could be fine and applying braking force on the inner pad, but you would never know if you only look at it from the outside. Check both sides of the rotor and the pins.

sinister6

one more thing!
rear calipers, and pads-wise.

did you make sure the pad direction is right?
the side have a nipple is mean to go inside. also the pistons have to "screw" in and not push type like the front. or it may seized in no time.

the piston has a "+" there make sure it fit into the nipples..

aak

good point! i will check that tomorrow.