brockscivic

Ok, i have a 93 Honda Civic EX sedan WITH ABS...and it has a bad master cylinder. I was looking for a replacement...and i can get any year Integra master cylinder and booster for the same price.

Is it true that i have to reflare any of the lines? Or would a 94-95 teg fit better than a 96-01.

brockscivic

bump for someone who needs to know...going to pick one up tomorrow

pdiggitydogg

you have abs...you wont have to reflare anything
you will have to bend things, depending on what you have, where you get the mc, and where its from originally....no big deal (use a tool)

see the "post helpful faqs" thread at the top of the forum, pg4 or so, for my how-to

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Any 94-95 Integrs RS will work. I have a 1995 EX ABS MC, but I am currently in CA for the next 3.5 weeks. A 90-93 Integra 1" will also work.

LeftCorner

To use the 94+ Integra 1" MC you're going to need to reposition one of the hard lines.

brockscivic

Thanks guys....ill check out that thread..

So basically...since i have ABS...i wont have to reflare but i will have to bend...thats cool

which is the best to use? the 1"?

pdiggitydogg

well...it doesnt get any bigger than 1"
cant go wrong with that

brockscivic

ok cool...ill let you guys know how it goes....

and Pdiggitydogg...you wouldnt by chance know where i can find the tool to bleed the abs system do you?

brockscivic

I just had a thought...

looking at the different master cylinders...i noticed that the lines exit the same for 94-01 Tegs and 96-00 civics...so here is my thinking. Why not swap the line that differs for one from an integra or 96-00 civic with ABS. That way i can avoid bending the lines, and still have the mack daddy 1" master cylinder.

Marauder

Do you have other brake upgrades??

If not, you can be loosing braking power. Going with a larger sized master cylinder, you will lower the line pressure and reduce the braking torque on your brake system.

brockscivic

not as of the moment...but im preparing for the future

pdiggitydogg

the 1/16" difference that exists between the 1" itr mc and the 15/16" abs mc that you alread own isnt going to be an issue...in fact, it isnt even going to be noticable
(i should have thought/mentioned that earlier)

and nope, dont know anyhting about a tool for abs bleeding

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 1/16" difference that exists between the 1" itr mc and the 15/16" abs mc that you alread own isnt going to be an issue...in fact, it isnt even going to be noticable
(i should have thought/mentioned that earlier)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, changing from a 15/16 to a 1 inch master cylinder, you are increasing the cylinder area by 14% which in turn reduces the hydraulic force multiplication by 14%.

Simply put, you'll have to apply 14% more force with your foot than before to acheive the same stopping distance.

pdiggitydogg

14% more force isnt at all noticeable if the larger booster that's matched to the 1" mc is used
Hell, id be surprised if you could notice the difference without changing the booster

brockscivic

well, i went and picked up the MC and BB today. And believe it or not...the only problem is that the stock line fittings are so bad from the previous owner...the 10 mm flare nut wrench wont even take it off...so im stuck...again only this time with nothing to drive.

I bought a 40" section of straight brake line from Autozone...only has 2 small fittings. Nowhere around here has an outfit to reflare the line either. So idk...any ideas?

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14% more force isnt at all noticeable if the larger booster that's matched to the 1" mc is used
Hell, id be surprised if you could notice the difference without changing the booster</TD></TR></TABLE>

No matter how you want to justify it...its still a PERFORMANCE LOSS.

pdiggitydogg

Your telling me then, that if it takes 5lbs of pressure to the pedal using the 15/16" mc...using the 1", your leg will have to apply 0.7lbs of additional pressure. And thats a "performance loss", because a leg is doing more work to push more fluid due to a larger cylinder? Sorry...huh??

That also means, that the itr 1" brake mc, with larger booster, is at a disadvantage to 15/16" mc, while both are pushing a 57mm caliper piston?
Honda really screwed that one up, didnt they? They should have just put the 7/8" mc on everything with larger caliper pistons.

-

Autozone rents flaring tool sets
and you can do it yourself
http://www.joesfalcon.com/gentip2/gentip2.html
just practice on a junk piece first

brockscivic

ok...got it installed...pedal is a bit mushy and goes about 3/4 the way down. im thinking bleeding...?

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No matter how you want to justify it...its still a PERFORMANCE LOSS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

While momentary brake-torque will indeed be decreased by the volume differential of the cylinder, the range of torque application before impending lockup should also increase by the same percentile, thus giving your system more flexibility and modulation at the expense of instantaneous brake-torque. Since your leg won't have any problem - I hope - compensating for the raw increase in necessary force, the result is a wider range of brake application.



And yes, to the OP, you need to bleed it very well.

brockscivic

Thanks Archidictus, that was a relief to hear some good news...and yes my leg can withstand that extra pound of pressure.

As for the brakes, they'll be bled monday at my local garage. Damn, i wish i had that ABS tool

brockscivic

Well, i can honestly say that i am not very happy at the moment. After driving the car about 25 miles, parking it, and starting to drive it back home the pedal starts to do the same exact thing it did before (with the old MC, which was leaking at the booster).

Sometimes, i go to a stopsign or stoplight and the longer i hold the pedal the farther it goes down...exactly like before. The brakes havent been bled yet...but i dont think it would make it this severe.

whats up with it?

brockscivic

well, a happy ending to the story...i went back this morning and traded in the master cylinder for another and its 'effin beautiful. Nice solid pedal feel even without bleeding...but ill have them flushed and refilled with some nice DOT 4 fluid.

Any ideas on what brand of fluid? Is Solder Seal (same company that makes gunk and other products) Super heavy duty DOT4 any good? Valvoline Synthetic?

And finally, how much...one quart...two?