Quetzolcotl

ok, for you serious engine tuners I am sure you are familiar with intake manifolds and thier tuning affects. large plenums are good for turbo, smaller for n/a. long runners put the power earlier, short runners are for top end.

if you need a refresher course or are not aware of such things look here: http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=466
page 2 has all the calculations

so this is what I want to know: does anyone know the dimensions of the skunk2 or edelbrock intake manifolds for d series? I know that for b-series edelbrock has a larger plenum than skunk2. edelbrock also says that the runners are 9" long for d's, which would mean that its power would peak at ~8,800 rmp. Seeing as how our beloved civics redline at 7500 that does not do any good.

You can go by the hype of added horsepower but without any indepth knowledge of what we are buying it might be worthless for your application. Mine engine is a high compression n/a and I am building it for mid-range power. So far the z6 IM looks the best because I can't find any info of the aftermarket IM's.

Quetzolcotl

I'll throw OBX IM's into the mix too. I've heard that they have shorter runners than either the z6 or y8 manifolds (both are about the same). that means that they are good for top end power.

infinatenexus

I have a Skunk2 D series manifold,, but I havent finished the motor yet so I cant comment on it too much.

As for the peak power at 8.8K on the Skunk2, that falls right into the power band of most modified D series,,, like mine

TABIAS

i have been wondering the same my self, i have a 97 civic i/h/e and i was looking at a intake manifold either skunk or eldlebrock which is better? Im going for n/a i can't find where to order the eldebrock or how much is costs, i have also heard that the skunk mani really helps out when you get into the 8's which is kinda hard for me at this point (haha) some one let me know which is better and were i can get it at a good price-

infinatenexus

I got the Shunk2 from lightningmotorsports.com for 269 shipped, and they had it on my door in three days

Marauder

Seems you didn't do a search on the Edelbrock manifold

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=645896
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=645494

The Edelbrock manifold WILL make 4-5 whp as a bolt on if you have I/H/E, any fairly close to that on a still stock engine. This is with a 6800 rpm rev limit on a Y8 engine. Since the stock manifold peaks at that rev limit, going higher than that will show even more gains.

Spade's car will be dyno'd soon to show the after horsepower.

Quetzolcotl

I did see those. there is almost no information to be had about specifics.

Smith Wise

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is with a 6800 rpm rev limit on a Y8 engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

7200 rev limit, did you mean the engine's power peaks at 6800? I believe it peaks around 6600 give or take -+ 50.

Skunk 2 seems to be the best bang for your buck. I have heard nothing but good stories after the tricky installation. 90% of the people that install them get some fluctuating idle and/or vaccum leak easily correctable after searching the H-T archives

Marauder

7200 rev limit for OBD 1 cars, a D16Y8 rev limiter kicks in a 6800

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quetzolcotl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">edelbrock also says that the runners are 9" long for d's, which would mean that its power would peak at ~8,800 rmp. Seeing as how our beloved civics redline at 7500 that does not do any good.

You can go by the hype of added horsepower but without any indepth knowledge of what we are buying it might be worthless for your application. Mine engine is a high compression n/a and I am building it for mid-range power. So far the z6 IM looks the best because I can't find any info of the aftermarket IM's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you are saying that just because some theoretical equation says that the manifold will deliver peak power at 8800 rpm, that the manifold wont work on your car. What did the equations say about the Z6 manifold?

If a before and after dyno showed more power with an aftermarket manifold, wouldn't that be a better choice to go with a engine that has more mods than just bolt-ons?

You say you want more specifics on the manifold....but you don't specify what you are looking for. Since I can't see the link you posted, I can't help you at all since I don't want to register with a integra website just to read an article.

You this this post I made a while back? Has a dyno chart I believe on page 2
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=591168

Smith Wise

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7200 rev limit for OBD 1 cars, a D16Y8 rev limiter kicks in a 6800</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll have to pay closer attention next time I'm in my neighbor's ej8

nevermind: i read your sig

Marauder

the stock tach signal reads high.....on the dyno, the ignition pickup says 6800 rpm.

Quetzolcotl

I have an extra z6 mani at home and will look at it soon and post when I can. I think I have the info for the y8 too somewhere.

You deffinately should join Team Integra. Their article section has more in depth helpful info than anywhere else I have found bar none. You will totally understand what I am talking about after reading that short informative article.

What is really important is not how much HP a given bolt on will add, its how it will work with your engine package. Here is some big quotes to help clarify:

&lt;q&gt;Relationship of Intake Port to Torque Peak
For a given intake port design, the cross-sectional area of the runner affects the location of an engine's torque peak in the RPM band. The runner length and shape is also very important, but the cross-sectional area will be the strongest determining factor.
Basically, the smaller the runner diameter, the less air potential there is. As the runner gets longer, inertia in the column of air will increase the flow at lower rpms and will tend to decrease the flow at higher rpms. Once again, inlet port cross-sectional area will be the main determinant of total airflow potential.

Keep in mind that these calculations must be used in conjunction with header tube diameter and length, valve size, head flow, and camshaft selection. For instance, if your camshaft is designed to peak at 4500 RPM, but your manifold and headers are tuned for 6500 RPM, your actual torque peak will fall somewhere between 4500 and 6500 RPM, and the useable torque band from 2500 to 4500 rpm will be lengthened and flattened. On the other hand, if you match the intake, headers, heads, and camshaft all for 5000 rpm, the torque peak will fall very close to 5000 RPM. Also, keep in mind that peak torque and peak horsepower do not occur at the same rpm and that when you shift it is always better to fall back to a region of maximum torque instead of trying to "climb the mountain" to get back to your next redline shift point. We cannot emphasize enough that you must view the engine as a complete system and not concentrate on only one aspect of it.&lt;/q&gt;

What I want to know is what manifold will work best with my application. Plus knowing the specs on edelbrock, OBX, and skunk2 manifolds will allow other people to know what manifold will fit thier engine package the best.

Marauder

That information is nothing new to me. Everything falls back onto the Helmholtz equations. There are comercially available software that you are able to enter all of the vehicles parameters and anaylze that information. That's for powertrain engineers and not the weekend tunner.

From my understanding and working one engines, runner length seems to determine the tuning on a engine more so than runner area. The area seems to be influenced by the displacement, bore and stroke of the engine. The same is true for Honda's at they are for chevy V8 engines.

Quetzolcotl

yes, it is all about helmholtz. Luckily there are online calculators you can use so you don't have to buy software. its true this stuff is not really for the weekend tuner, but for me if i am going to spend $300 on a part I want to make sure that I am not wasting money and it will be of some benefit.

so maybe then the focus should just be on what the runner length is, and how large the plenums are.

Quetzolcotl

any more input from anybody?