Installing springs
03-28-2004, 07:42 PM
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Installing springs
Well i got my H&R sport springs on today, and didnt have too much trouble for it being my first time doing this sorta thing...
When i started out my car had about a four finger gap from the top of the tire (14" rims with 65 series tires) to the bottom of the fender.
Now after driving around for a little while the car now has a tight two finger gap all the way around, handles much better, a lot less body roll, better cornering traction.
Im going to give a short DIY on this so people who dont know might be able to learn from this, since i was not able to find a good write-up on this....
first off i jacked up the drivers side of my car ( I did one side at a time so i could double check my work and make sure everything was right with the other side)
Once you get your wheels off you will need to pop your hood, and your hatch/trunk.
**FRONTS**
-Remove the two nuts (14mm) on your shock tower in the engine bay using a deep socket or wrench.
-Remove the two bolts holding the brake line to the shock body (only on the fronts), using a 12 or 13mm socket.
-Then on the back of the shock there will be another 14mm bolt that you will need to remove to be able to remove the shock from the fork.
- After that remove the 18mm bolt that connects the fork to the A-arm.
-Now wiggle the shock to remove it from the fork, and slide it out.
-To remove the spring from the shock you will need a 5mm allen wrench, and a 14mm wrench.
(NOTE: If you do not have a spring compressor you can place the shock between two heavy things to absorb the impact of the spring while removing the top hat bolt. (ie: old tires, blocks of wood etc..))
- Now lay the shock on its side, so neither of the ends are facing you, of course. Put the allen wrench inside the bolt thats sticking up, and start to remove the nut using the 14mm wrench.
- When the nut is almost off MAKE SURE that you have two heavy things to absorb the impact of the spring, IF YOU DO NOT THE SPRING WILL SHOOT OUT AND MAY CAUSE AN INJURY!!. Or you can do it the safe way and use a spring compressor...
- Now just put on your new spring by reverseing all of the said steps.
**REAR**
-Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the shock to the Lower Control Arm (LCA) using a 14mm socket.
- Now remove the two bolts at the top of the shock tower using a 14mm deep socket.
(*NOTE: To get the shock out you will need to do one of two things: 1) Remove the bolt that connects the LCA to the rear brake assembly, or 2) Remove the bolt connecting the LCA to the rear subframe. Both of these bolts are 14mm)
-Now that youve got the shock out you can do the same steps to remove the spring that you used on the fronts.
- Not to reinstall the shock you bolt up the two bolts at the top of the shock tower.
-Then lift up the LCA to connect the shock to the LCA.
- Now you might have to use a jack to lift the LCA up to either the brake assembly, or subframe.
Now go back and doubel check that you have everything connected correctly, and that all bolts/nuts are tight and enjoy.
**NOTE**: If the spring shoots out and the washers go everywhere here is the order to put everything back together..
1) Place the BUMPSTOP so that the smallest side faces downward towards the body of the shock.
2) Now put the washer that has a TAPERED side on top of the bumpstop.
3) Next put the dust sheild (Big black dealy) over top of the bumpstop.
4) Put the black washer on top of that.
5) Put the spring on
6) Put on the TOP HAT, make sure that you have BOTH of the RUBBER peices, with the metal rod running through both.
7) Put on the top WASHER so that the EDGES are stickin UP.
This is about as indepth as i can get, i can post some pics if needed.....
When i started out my car had about a four finger gap from the top of the tire (14" rims with 65 series tires) to the bottom of the fender.
Now after driving around for a little while the car now has a tight two finger gap all the way around, handles much better, a lot less body roll, better cornering traction.
Im going to give a short DIY on this so people who dont know might be able to learn from this, since i was not able to find a good write-up on this....
first off i jacked up the drivers side of my car ( I did one side at a time so i could double check my work and make sure everything was right with the other side)
Once you get your wheels off you will need to pop your hood, and your hatch/trunk.
**FRONTS**
-Remove the two nuts (14mm) on your shock tower in the engine bay using a deep socket or wrench.
-Remove the two bolts holding the brake line to the shock body (only on the fronts), using a 12 or 13mm socket.
-Then on the back of the shock there will be another 14mm bolt that you will need to remove to be able to remove the shock from the fork.
- After that remove the 18mm bolt that connects the fork to the A-arm.
-Now wiggle the shock to remove it from the fork, and slide it out.
-To remove the spring from the shock you will need a 5mm allen wrench, and a 14mm wrench.
(NOTE: If you do not have a spring compressor you can place the shock between two heavy things to absorb the impact of the spring while removing the top hat bolt. (ie: old tires, blocks of wood etc..))
- Now lay the shock on its side, so neither of the ends are facing you, of course. Put the allen wrench inside the bolt thats sticking up, and start to remove the nut using the 14mm wrench.
- When the nut is almost off MAKE SURE that you have two heavy things to absorb the impact of the spring, IF YOU DO NOT THE SPRING WILL SHOOT OUT AND MAY CAUSE AN INJURY!!. Or you can do it the safe way and use a spring compressor...
- Now just put on your new spring by reverseing all of the said steps.
**REAR**
-Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the shock to the Lower Control Arm (LCA) using a 14mm socket.
- Now remove the two bolts at the top of the shock tower using a 14mm deep socket.
(*NOTE: To get the shock out you will need to do one of two things: 1) Remove the bolt that connects the LCA to the rear brake assembly, or 2) Remove the bolt connecting the LCA to the rear subframe. Both of these bolts are 14mm)
-Now that youve got the shock out you can do the same steps to remove the spring that you used on the fronts.
- Not to reinstall the shock you bolt up the two bolts at the top of the shock tower.
-Then lift up the LCA to connect the shock to the LCA.
- Now you might have to use a jack to lift the LCA up to either the brake assembly, or subframe.
Now go back and doubel check that you have everything connected correctly, and that all bolts/nuts are tight and enjoy.
**NOTE**: If the spring shoots out and the washers go everywhere here is the order to put everything back together..
1) Place the BUMPSTOP so that the smallest side faces downward towards the body of the shock.
2) Now put the washer that has a TAPERED side on top of the bumpstop.
3) Next put the dust sheild (Big black dealy) over top of the bumpstop.
4) Put the black washer on top of that.
5) Put the spring on
6) Put on the TOP HAT, make sure that you have BOTH of the RUBBER peices, with the metal rod running through both.
7) Put on the top WASHER so that the EDGES are stickin UP.
This is about as indepth as i can get, i can post some pics if needed.....
03-28-2004, 07:57 PM
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Re: Installing springs (Rev-Olution)
I wouldn't suggest not using spring compressors to people. If it's that big of a deal you can take it to a shock place and they'll take your springs off for under 40 bucks. Good writeup otherwise, but I think it's already been done with pics
03-28-2004, 08:01 PM
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my bad, i couldnt find any threads when i was gettring ready to do the install...You dont really NEED to use a spring compressor, however it is a good idea.
EDIT- And sorry, i didnt take pics during the whole process, but i can post pics of the areas that I am talking about if needed...Just figured that it should be detailed enough so you can visualize the areas that i am talking about.
More comments / questions / info is appreciated.
EDIT- And sorry, i didnt take pics during the whole process, but i can post pics of the areas that I am talking about if needed...Just figured that it should be detailed enough so you can visualize the areas that i am talking about.
More comments / questions / info is appreciated.
03-28-2004, 08:04 PM
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Re: (Rev-Olution)
I agree that with a little patience, caution, and common sense you can the assembly appart w/o the compressors, but some people don't have all those things at once 
03-28-2004, 08:12 PM
#5
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Re: (FrostySol)
You can do it without a spring compressor but you need to be careful. I've changed out my suspesion more times then I can count. It is very easy but I would find someone to walk you through it the first time.
03-28-2004, 08:22 PM
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Re: (turboman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It is very easy but I would find someone to walk you through it the first time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm....I disagree. The CONCEPT is easy enough, and the directions are easy, but to me, actually doing it is a BITCH. I can't stand working on suspension. Seized/stripped bolts/broken/rusted bolts. I live in New York so this is what I have to deal with. Once you have everything upgraded it is not nearly as hard, but when your changing out stock suspension on an older car that sees salty roads and what not, it is NOT fun.
Hmm....I disagree. The CONCEPT is easy enough, and the directions are easy, but to me, actually doing it is a BITCH. I can't stand working on suspension. Seized/stripped bolts/broken/rusted bolts. I live in New York so this is what I have to deal with. Once you have everything upgraded it is not nearly as hard, but when your changing out stock suspension on an older car that sees salty roads and what not, it is NOT fun.
03-28-2004, 08:30 PM
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Re: (sickSOLvtec)
while doing my suspension i took off the LCA's completely to get ready to install my GSR swaybar and LCA's, and i did not have one problem with seized bolts..everything came off just fine. I have heard that some cars have problems with seized bolts, but it seems that it doesnt happen all too often..i dont think this should deter people from doing this themselves, it helps to build confidence, and gives a lot more knowledge doing it first hand rather than taking your car to a shop to have them do it....
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03-28-2004, 08:39 PM
#8
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Re: Installing springs (Rev-Olution)
i did mine without a spring compressor. It was sketchy as ****. When the thing would finally break loose the **** would fly all the way across the yard 
. Definantely wish I had gotten the compressor 
.
. Definantely wish I had gotten the compressor .
03-28-2004, 08:49 PM
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Re: Installing springs (SOHC_MShue)
Thats why i advised the readers to place to heavy objects, like old tires etc, to absorb the impact, because as one would expect the "****" will fly about 15 feet. With the objects on BOTH sides of the spring/shock when the nut finally comes loose the objects will dampen the springs force, and help keep everything in that area. You should not have a problem doing it this way, however that is in MY OPINION, and should not be taken as gospel.
Just incase there is anyone who has half a brain, i would also advise you to not point the spring under compression at your face/ body while loosening the top bolt.
ANYONE doing this project takes all responsibility for their own actions. I am NOT by anymeans telling you to do this yourself. This is mearly a guide to help DIY'ers like myself to do this project. If you do not feel that you are able to do this task because you are not well versed with tools, are not mechanically inclined, or are dumb, then do not try this.
Just incase there is anyone who has half a brain, i would also advise you to not point the spring under compression at your face/ body while loosening the top bolt.
ANYONE doing this project takes all responsibility for their own actions. I am NOT by anymeans telling you to do this yourself. This is mearly a guide to help DIY'ers like myself to do this project. If you do not feel that you are able to do this task because you are not well versed with tools, are not mechanically inclined, or are dumb, then do not try this.
03-28-2004, 09:34 PM
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Re: (Rev-Olution)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rev-Olution »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while doing my suspension i took off the LCA's completely to get ready to install my GSR swaybar and LCA's, and i did not have one problem with seized bolts..everything came off just fine. I have heard that some cars have problems with seized bolts, but it seems that it doesnt happen all too often..i dont think this should deter people from doing this themselves, it helps to build confidence, and gives a lot more knowledge doing it first hand rather than taking your car to a shop to have them do it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not telling people not to do it, I'm just saying that it's not always easy. You are wrong about seized bolts not happening very often, they are very common in rear LCA's especially. I snapped both of mine, as did my best friend in his crx, and another friend in his integra. I also stripped the allen key hole on the top of one of my shocks. I am still all bout doing it yourself and would never recommend people to not atleast try it once. But to me, suspension is the least fun I've had working on my car.
edit:good write-up by the way
I'm not telling people not to do it, I'm just saying that it's not always easy. You are wrong about seized bolts not happening very often, they are very common in rear LCA's especially. I snapped both of mine, as did my best friend in his crx, and another friend in his integra. I also stripped the allen key hole on the top of one of my shocks. I am still all bout doing it yourself and would never recommend people to not atleast try it once. But to me, suspension is the least fun I've had working on my car.
edit:good write-up by the way
03-28-2004, 10:45 PM
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Re: Installing springs (SOHC_MShue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did mine without a spring compressor. It was sketchy as ****. When the thing would finally break loose the **** would fly all the way across the yard . Definantely wish I had gotten the compressor .</TD></TR></TABLE>
not if you stand on the top hat and the spring while taking the nut off....you only need spring compressors if you are putting stock springs back on a car!
. Definantely wish I had gotten the compressor .</TD></TR></TABLE>not if you stand on the top hat and the spring while taking the nut off....you only need spring compressors if you are putting stock springs back on a car!
03-28-2004, 10:50 PM
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stripping bolts on the LCA is probobly the most common thing to do in a honda. i managed to torque the head off each bolt in the lca. it was easier to just go buy new bushings / bolts and do that while i was down there. Copperlube is your friend
i managed to torque the head off each bolt in the lca. it was easier to just go buy new bushings / bolts and do that while i was down there. Copperlube is your friend
03-28-2004, 10:52 PM
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Re: Installing springs (FrostySol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FrostySol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't suggest not using spring compressors to people. If it's that big of a deal you can take it to a shock place and they'll take your springs off for under 40 bucks. Good writeup otherwise, but I think it's already been done with pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can I get the link?
Good write-up though
Can I get the link?
Good write-up though
03-28-2004, 11:07 PM
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Re: (mattEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stripping bolts on the LCA is probobly the most common thing to do in a honda. i managed to torque the head off each bolt in the lca.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dang looks like i got lucky then , all of mine came off with ease...
Thanks for all the responses people.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FrostySol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it's already been done with pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^If you can find the link i would like to see it, i searched for a long *** time trying to find one, cause i didnt want anyone to flame me for askin. That is also why i put a fairly obvious title on this topic, so it will be easier to find under search.
i managed to torque the head off each bolt in the lca.</TD></TR></TABLE>Dang looks like i got lucky then
, all of mine came off with ease...Thanks for all the responses people.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FrostySol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it's already been done with pics</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^If you can find the link i would like to see it, i searched for a long *** time trying to find one, cause i didnt want anyone to flame me for askin
. That is also why i put a fairly obvious title on this topic, so it will be easier to find under search.
03-29-2004, 10:26 PM
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Re: (Rev-Olution)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rev-Olution »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you can find the link i would like to see it, i searched for a long *** time trying to find one, cause i didnt want anyone to flame me for askin. That is also why i put a fairly obvious title on this topic, so it will be easier to find under search.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm... I could've sworn that I saw it on here before... oh well, if you cant find the helms online anywhere someone send me an e-mail to remind me to scan that page of the book... it's really a simple process and once you get it down can be done in under 20 min (trust me, I know... I made a few mistakes while putting my suspension together so by the time I was done I could have the back struts off, disassembled, reassembled, and put back on in under 25 min).
If you can find the link i would like to see it, i searched for a long *** time trying to find one, cause i didnt want anyone to flame me for askin
. That is also why i put a fairly obvious title on this topic, so it will be easier to find under search.</TD></TR></TABLE>hmm... I could've sworn that I saw it on here before... oh well, if you cant find the helms online anywhere someone send me an e-mail to remind me to scan that page of the book... it's really a simple process and once you get it down can be done in under 20 min (trust me, I know... I made a few mistakes while putting my suspension together so by the time I was done I could have the back struts off, disassembled, reassembled, and put back on in under 25 min).
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