Installing an axle
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Installing an axle
Hey, this is my first post. I have looked at the DIY for installing an axle and I plan on replacing my driver's side axle because my car pulls to the left a little when I drive and when I go past 60-70, I get a vibration. Also, when I jacked up my car, there's a lot of play with the wheel.
Here's my question. Should I replace the lower ball joints and control arm while I'm at it? My car has a lot of miles, do these parts usually where out and break or something? Thanks.
I drive a 1994 Honda Civic Coupe EX w/o ABS 140k miles if that helps.
Here's my question. Should I replace the lower ball joints and control arm while I'm at it? My car has a lot of miles, do these parts usually where out and break or something? Thanks.
I drive a 1994 Honda Civic Coupe EX w/o ABS 140k miles if that helps.
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Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
are you sure its your axle thats the problem? have you checked your alignment, tires, etc? is your CV joint ripped, popping? if your axle is the problem, i would just replace that and see if that corrects the problem before i moved on to something else.
#3
Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
When you turn sharp, if you hear a clicking noise, then its time for a new axle. Or if the CV boot is ripped then its time for a new axle. When you have play in your wheel when you jack it up, then you need to replace the lower ball joints. I did both my axles for about $100, as opposed to around $900 from a repair shop (just goes to show you how much of a rip off those places are).
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Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
>I would highly recommend putting ur car up on a lift... inspect it with a flash light
>Look for worn or torn bushings and missing hardware
>Check to see if ur lugs are on tight... check the tires for uneven wear
>Look to see if the tread is worn in some irregular pattern
>Look under the hood... towards ur towers... look to see ur >struts/shocks/coilovers ?re fastened and torqued down to spec
If you really need to replace ur axel:::
1. Remove 4/5 lugs... remove wheel
2. Swing back caliper and unclip brake lines if desired (self explanitory)
3. Look for 2 or 4 ---- 1/4'' screws on ur rotors... remove those screws.
Then remove the big bolt... it is actually a huge nut that spins on the axel
to keep ur rotor on
4. Remove the rotor
5. I used an impact gun to spin off the big bolt and a stud remover to remove
the wheel fasteners/studs
6. next slip the axel out... slip the next one in... reverse the process and
torque to spec
7. last step... buy a HELMS manual and b like damn I should have done this
sooner
......
I just saw ur post about u having a civic ex 94 w/o abs
dude you are due to maintain everything unless you have been keeping up with general maintainence
bushings bearings and hardwares life might be shortened due to the climate
depending upon how much water the underside of ur cars sees will determine the life of each component
recently past months maintainence for my 93 civic d15b7
ignition wires
6a spark plugs (non gapped)
rotor and cap
replace headgasket... I recommend any metal gasket... they raise compression by 0.1 to 0.3 in some applications
replace timing belt
compression test
replace/charge battery
replace brake pads
flush rad
flush and desludgify the exhaust from headers back
replace/clean air cleaner
lube or use graphite to make ur throttle body cable easy to move
tire rotation
oil change....................... use a stabilizer like LUCAS
tranny fluid change......... LUCAS stabilizer with a 10w30 or higher SAE did wonders for my tranny y series
My friend uses royal purple 10w40 w 20% stabilizer in his b series tranny
it works well
replaced all fuses and relays
a few others.. i cant remember
it runs like it rolled off the lot
I'd say it has another 100k in it for the time being
>Look for worn or torn bushings and missing hardware
>Check to see if ur lugs are on tight... check the tires for uneven wear
>Look to see if the tread is worn in some irregular pattern
>Look under the hood... towards ur towers... look to see ur >struts/shocks/coilovers ?re fastened and torqued down to spec
If you really need to replace ur axel:::
1. Remove 4/5 lugs... remove wheel
2. Swing back caliper and unclip brake lines if desired (self explanitory)
3. Look for 2 or 4 ---- 1/4'' screws on ur rotors... remove those screws.
Then remove the big bolt... it is actually a huge nut that spins on the axel
to keep ur rotor on
4. Remove the rotor
5. I used an impact gun to spin off the big bolt and a stud remover to remove
the wheel fasteners/studs
6. next slip the axel out... slip the next one in... reverse the process and
torque to spec
7. last step... buy a HELMS manual and b like damn I should have done this
sooner
......
I just saw ur post about u having a civic ex 94 w/o abs
dude you are due to maintain everything unless you have been keeping up with general maintainence
bushings bearings and hardwares life might be shortened due to the climate
depending upon how much water the underside of ur cars sees will determine the life of each component
recently past months maintainence for my 93 civic d15b7
ignition wires
6a spark plugs (non gapped)
rotor and cap
replace headgasket... I recommend any metal gasket... they raise compression by 0.1 to 0.3 in some applications
replace timing belt
compression test
replace/charge battery
replace brake pads
flush rad
flush and desludgify the exhaust from headers back
replace/clean air cleaner
lube or use graphite to make ur throttle body cable easy to move
tire rotation
oil change....................... use a stabilizer like LUCAS
tranny fluid change......... LUCAS stabilizer with a 10w30 or higher SAE did wonders for my tranny y series
My friend uses royal purple 10w40 w 20% stabilizer in his b series tranny
it works well
replaced all fuses and relays
a few others.. i cant remember
it runs like it rolled off the lot
I'd say it has another 100k in it for the time being
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Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanDaMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when I go past 60-70, I get a vibration. Also, when I jacked up my car, there's a lot of play with the wheel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing.
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Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
Thanks for your replies. I'm pretty sure it's the axle because there's some grease leaking - unless it could be the wheel bearing like Screwtap suggested. Btw, Elwuudz, thats a lot of maintainence things you mentioned. I think I only had a new alternator
battery
spark plugs/wires, and I plan on draining the tranny fluid twice (once while changing the oil and once while changing the axle)
I think I'll wait til it's warmer then I'll install the axle. I ordered it on ebay for $65 shipped. If it still pulls/vibrates, then I'll replace the wheel bearings. Thanks guys.
battery
spark plugs/wires, and I plan on draining the tranny fluid twice (once while changing the oil and once while changing the axle)
I think I'll wait til it's warmer then I'll install the axle. I ordered it on ebay for $65 shipped. If it still pulls/vibrates, then I'll replace the wheel bearings. Thanks guys.
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#8
Re: Installing an axle (DanDaMan)
Yeah front axis suck ive replaced my drivers front 3 times got use to the process its not that complicated at all but There should be a wear indicater on the ball joints make sure that none of your control arms are bent or anything like that
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