ht834

If it was the CMC the car would feel like it needs a clutch. And it wouldn't go into gear. Maybe this will help, also when your bleeding the clutch take a whole bottle of Honda brake fluid and turn it upside down into the reservoir that what when your bleeding the fluid doesn't run out and you end with more air than when you started. Don't worry the bottle will seal itself with the reservoir

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Bump 'cuz people are deserting you.... and I'm still concerned about the instant shift failure.
It goes into gear...but no go...the clutch is still there...when released there is contact between the disc and pp...but no go...damn, I won't speculate further 'til you get it fully bled.
Get another person out there and old school that bitch 'til its bled. pump 3-5 times....crack bleeder screw and tighten...release pedal/repeat.

You need some heavy hitters to check in.

ht834

Make sure when your pumping the pedal you do it by hand

cueballsi

ok well try this now.... look under the hood at the slave and the pin pushing the end fo the fork. Have him/her press on the clutch, see if the pin moves, then have them release, see if the pin retracts. Also, doe the pedel return by itself once you press on it?

the only think i can think of is that your clutch is not dis engaging all the way... why i am not too sure.

or is your e-brake on????? j/k let me now what is up

cueballsi

DING DING DING DING!!!! I think I have it..... LMAO I was looking at your picture on the first page..... the dam master rod is too long.... adjust it to make it shorter...... your master is always engaged so even if you let go, the master is still pushing some fluid into the slave, which then pushes the pin. If you shorten the rod it will reduce the amount of fluid, which will then pull the pin back a little, disengaging your clutch.


I BET!!!! If you start your car right now with your problem, you can shift through all your gears without pressing on your clutch... if this does happen, then my theory is right... if it is not.... try it anyways!!!

JDM_SOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cueballsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DING DING DING DING!!!! I think I have it..... LMAO I was looking at your picture on the first page..... the dam master rod is too long.... adjust it to make it shorter...... your master is always engaged so even if you let go, the master is still pushing some fluid into the slave, which then pushes the pin. If you shorten the rod it will reduce the amount of fluid, which will then pull the pin back a little, disengaging your clutch.


I BET!!!! If you start your car right now with your problem, you can shift through all your gears without pressing on your clutch... if this does happen, then my theory is right... if it is not.... try it anyways!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Houston, we have a problem.... I guess I found out the hardway of why you shouldnt buy **** off EBAY even though marked as GREAT PRODUCT..!!! I reached my hand into tranny at slave cylinder area, and feeling around felt kinda weird so i was able to grab a chunk of something... And look what we pulled out... Can we say SHITTY CLUTCH..!!!

JDM_SOHC

bump for a quick laugh

turbociviccoupe

hahaha... lo fucken l

ht834

That sucks, OEM only way to go!!

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Are there pics in this post? Can't see 'em.
So the friction surface let go?

JDM_SOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B and B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there pics in this post? Can't see 'em.
So the friction surface let go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha yeah my clutch just ripped apart... an yeah I was going to go OEM but would an OEM clutch be able to handle around 210-225 hp..?? Thats what i put up when boosted last so Im figuring next go will be around the same... I just dont wanna have to rip off my tranny again in a couple months, im kinda gettin tired of it lol...

::edit::

i was told once u get what u pay for, so im figuring thiis kit may be alright.. its still off of EBAY but anywhere else is like over 500 and I dont have that right now... or if anyone knows anywhere that has good priced clutch kits & flywheels could u PLEASE lemme know.... thanks in advance...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...idget

ht834

What kind of power output are you looking for to match your clutch? SOHC?

JDM_SOHC

just a small t3 kit that I peiced together a while back for a friend that I ended up snaggin back off of him before he killed it lol.. completely tuned i wanna be puttin out at least 215hp to the wheels.. i realize thats very acheiveable but im a D/D not a track enthusiast so I'm not gonna be pushing it to the limit.. an besides its a bitch to get internals for mine cuz i cant find forged pistons for D15's anywhere without being custom built... so yeah I want just a nice little clutch thats gonna hold up at least 250hp just incase I boost more...

RudeLudeHatch

Exedy is the way to go

JDM_SOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLudeHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exedy is the way to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i've heard that before so i figured i'd try and stick by that... i havent heard to much bad stuff about them... an i figure a nice exedy clutch setup with a lightened fidanza flywheel an ill be alright... as far as stages go, how big of a difference does it really make..??? are the different stages of clutches basically the more tq they can handle..??

JDM_SOHC

would i get an exedy oe replacement, or should i get into the stages an stuff..???

ht834

Go here for your pistons

http://www.honda-performance.c...d=356

And as far as your clutch goes I have a ACT clutch kit in my TypeR and its been in there for 28k miles and it still has a srong pedal feel and grabs hard to. I would go for the ACT kit with the xtreme PP
here

http://www.nipponpower.com/pro...k=199

J_biz_ness

did you figure out what it was im haveing the same problem

go250mph

Sounds like a throw out bearing fork issue. Not installed right. Or fell crooked upon install. But I'd think if it were that, you would have a little fluid leaking on the ground from the slave cylinder over extending. Did you do what they call "BENCH BLEEDING" the slave cylinder before you installed it? You gotta get every bit of air out of it before it's installed on some vehicles.