mikej94civex

i'm not really good with suspension so bare with me...i understrand a front camber kit replaces
the front upper control arms, and allows u to go +/- a few degrees to help with tire wear from lowerin
a car...what are so me negatives to these? r they reliable/safe?

btw any other info on these will b helpful, also info on the install would b greatly appreciated! =0

TunerN00b

Negatives:
Cost money (compared to OEM UCAs, which you already have)
Reduce available suspension travel (the biggest issue)
Increase the cost of alignments
Can include inferior quality ball joints (brand depending)
Don't do anything at all with tire wear

Pros:
Allows fine tuning of camber for race purposes

You might want to read through this stickied thread from the Suspension Forum
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/no-you-do-not-need-camber-kits-2614449/

hondadude_rudo

they are worthless once you realize that your car handles like crap once you take away the negative camber compared to just keeping the negative camber. they are great for racing though, especially auto x and drag. for drag, set to almost 0 for a better contact patch and launch, and for auto x, well ya just gotta test and test and test some more to figure out where you like it. for a daily driven car, just leave your camber where it is and get a good alignment, and tire wear wont be an issue unless your super dumped or doing burnouts or "peeling out" all of the time.

uniquesol

not worth it......have my ek dropped 4in w/ no camber kits and have no problems

Vindicator9000

To add to what everyone else is saying:

If you're running lowered without a camber kit (or, if you're running anything other than 0 camber), you need to keep the toe zeroed out. Period. Toe is critical to tire wear. Camber DOES affect tire wear, but minimally. As in, I've got 15K miles on tires with -2.5 degrees camber in the rear, and the camber wear is almost unnoticable.

Other than that, yes, it's 100% true that a couple of degrees of negative camber will positively affect handling characteristics. It's because as you go into a curve hard, the camber angle will change on your outside wheels... your camber will go up. So, if you start with zero camber and go into a curve hard, your camber angle will go positive, so you have less than a 100% tire patch.

If you have a few degrees of negative camber though, as you go into a curve hard, (ideally), your camber will go up from negative and (hopefully) max out at zero camber. Which means that full-out into a curve, you have zero camber and 100% tire patch, thus having the maximum grip that your car is capable of.

Damn I just reread that and it's confusing, even when I know what I mean. I'll have to make a paint drawing of it sometime.