IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue.
 

Ok finally got my car back together and running good(jinx'd)


The car runs fantastic when cold,and when first started,the once it reaches normal opperating temperature it bogs heavily when under acceleration.Once i get to about 4k rpms it does just fine,but anything below it bogs crazy.Now it only does it when warm,also the idle will get twitchy and surge from about 500-1000.

Has new dizzy,new stock p28 and still gives me this damn problem.

Any ideas?

Btw does anyone have a diagram or routing schematic for a 92-95 civic coolant hoses?


Modified by jaredvabeach at 6:57 PM 4/9/2008

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (jaredvabeach)
 

i had that problem before when i ran 100 octane to help with smog and i think it was just a piece of carbon got stuck on my spark plugs so i just changed them and it went away. http://is.rely.net/1-92-29998-l-1gbM...AmVuBW3hGg.gif

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (gizzerhatch)
 

It ONLY happens when its warm though,i would think spark plugs would affect the way it ran all the time.

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (jaredvabeach)
 

yeah mine only did it when it was warm too. it was really strange. i just changed them and finished off that tank of gas it it just went away.

Hmm ill give that a shot tomorrow,how about coolant hose schematic's??

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (jaredvabeach)
 

could be a vacuum leak or air bubbles in the coolant system...happen to my ej1...vacuum leak from TPS gasket...so i replace the gasket...spray brake cleaner or soapy water around the intake manifold to see if any leak/air bubble

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (Skadaloz)
 

Vacum leak would also do it all the time,coolant is likely,thats why i asked for the hose schematics.

Ok my coolant hoses flow in this manner.


1-line from coolant rail>iacv>lower part of intake manifold.

2-line from coolant rail>fitv>upper part of intake manifold.

do i have those both correct or what?

upup

Re: (jaredvabeach)
 

Did you ever find out if it was the coolant lines?

I have the same problem, here is how I would describe it.....

Car starts, fine, idles fine. Sometimes (about 1/3 of the time) when the engine gets up to normal temperature, the engine really wants to be at 1500 rpm. it idles at 1500 rpm (a little high). if you press the gas slightly, the engine will kind of surge, rpms going up, but then back down quickly, trying to stay at 1500rpm. if you give it more gas (push beyond 3500 rpm) it runs just fine. while its misbehaving and ur cruising around town, fully letting off the gas will cause it to bog hardcore. my engine loses lots of speed, and fast. again, likely after the ubiquitous 1500 rpm. now here is the clincher, if i turn off the ignition and turn it back on again (dont even have to slow down, just step on the clutch and click-click) the problem goes away completely until the next time the car is cold started, and even then its a maybe.

I assume its a sensor issue somewhere, and it must have something to do with the coolant temperature. but not sure what would cause it.

This all started when i had an SIRII b16 swapped into my del sol. I'll mention now that I get really bad gas mileage too. I have lived with it up till now, but i think its time to get it straightened out.

Sparky

bump

Re: (wondersparrow)
 

i had the same bogging problem in my '96 with b18b. put the correct ecu, and it fixed it. when i put in the correct ecu tho... my car started running insanely lean...like i'm surprised i didn't burn a hole in a piston lean. it would run fine after 3500rpm, but under it would bog and have no balls at all. I unplugged my o2 sensor and it runs fine. but my AIT is telling the pcm the temp it is taking in is 375*F

Re: (jaredvabeach)
 

my em1 started doing the same thing, with idle at 1500, with intermittent fluctuation from 500-1500rpm, but only after warm up. is it throwing a check engine light? i ended up replacing the pcv valve, throttle body gasket, and cleaned the TB and iacv before finding the culprit to be the iacv gasket. cheap and easy, might be worth a shot. maybe u can get a volt meter and a third hand, check the tps while ur in there

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (Skadaloz)
 

id check in this order:

1) tps
2) o2 sensor
3) vacuum leak

could many, many other variables, try searching, it could be anything from fuel injectors to possibly your ECU.

Also, are you getting any codes?

Re: IM really starting to hate this car,bogging issue. (obuhmyuh)
 

I agree with obuhmyuh. My thoughts were primarily o2 sensor.

this happened to me and also worse when warm... what i did to remedy are as follows...

checked dizzy, oil, coolant, vacuum leaks etcc...
the culprit...
bad plug wires, and timing was off... fixed and then it ran like a champ!

no cel at all, thats one of the things i found really odd. tps and IACV gasket sound like cheap things to replace. where exactly is the iacv? right on the side of the throttle body?

Does anyone know which O2 sensor I should have with the sirII? I am pretty sure its obd1...

Re: (wondersparrow)
 

the IACV is on the back of the throttle body, towards the firewall. Should be 2 12mm bolts and 2 coolant lines into it. you don't have to remove the coolant lines if you're replacing the gasket. the tps is stupid expensive from honda, but found one on h-t for 30$. Definitely get a volt meter (30$ anywhere) to check it first. search how if u need to. but agreed, no CEL is odd, my iacv, tps, and o2 sensor all threw codes when they acted up. my final guess would be a vacuum leak at a hose or gasket. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obuhmyuh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> could many, many other variables</TD></TR></TABLE> sad truth here. start knocking out the cheap ones first https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emwink.gif

Re: (CptnKeifer)
 

Im having the exact same problem in my 00 Si, and I initally thought vaccum lines but if its vac why would it only act up when its warm? And If its one of the sensors wouldn't it throw a code?

Re: (20sir00)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20sir00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im having the exact same problem in my 00 Si, and I initally thought vaccum lines but if its vac why would it only act up when its warm? And If its one of the sensors wouldn't it throw a code?</TD></TR></TABLE>

does yours not throw a code either? I was thinking i should maybe check on the bulb just to be sure. http://images.honda-tech.com/set1//smile/emcrook.gif

Re: (20sir00)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20sir00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im having the exact same problem in my 00 Si, and I initally thought vaccum lines but if its vac why would it only act up when its warm? And If its one of the sensors wouldn't it throw a code?</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm, most vac leaks surface when warm. The IACV creates a vac leak durring warm up to compensate for the added fuel its dumping, so you wouldnt ever know untill its warm.

Most bogging issues are for lack of spark/fuel

id do a full tune up, replacing things you already havent. then;

resurface all engine grounds, or even replace the ground wires/and or corroded terminals.
Get a walbro fuel pump.

If the bogging continues, get a multi meter and check all sensors.

If the bogging continues, you should do a valve adjustment

If it still persists, leak down/compression

its not bogging as per bad fuel mixture, its more like its resisting changing the rpms. I wish I could describe it better, its very distinctive. the surging effect is what tells me its not just a mixture problem, plus the fact that cycling the key makes the problem go away completely. I did find out my cel is blown, so who knows what codes its throwing, didnt even look into it before because of the lack of a light. I am really starting to think that the shop that put my engine in did that on purpose, there were a number of other problems i have worked out already.

On that note, just a shoutout, stay the heck away from Speedtech in Edmonton, they are shady crooks at best.

Re: (bigsyke)
 

nope no code for me

wheres OP?

i have the same shit going on

Re: (CptnKeifer)
 

could be a plugged converter if your running one. it'll be more noticable when the engine is warm because the exhaust gasses are hotter and expand more. try takin the primary o2 sensor out and goin for a quick drive. quick and easy way to see if the cat is broken up internally. just a thought.