stratedrm

im picking up a complete b20b swap ... and i'll be pulling my d15 out of my 95 dx coupe..

the motors got 125k on it, clutch and tranny are in good shape, motor is well maintained and stuff..

just wondering what i should try to sell it for... and what other people have gotten paid for their stock sohc motors...

Libertariat

Me? I would sell it and get a b18b.

If you really want to keep it, keep it and rebuild it. sleeves, pistons, rods, valvetrain, etc.

It can be a dope motor if you build it right.

But for the saek of all the hassle/risk of the b20, I'd rather go with a b18b.

stratedrm

im just gonna rock the b20 in my car for now.. just wondering what my d15 would sell for.. everything including axles

stratedrm

im picking it up pretty cheap cause its coming out of a friends car so it's worth it.. i'm not looking to set any records with hp numbers... maybe just do a turbo kit with low boost to make up for the lack of top end..

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stratedrm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.. just wondering what my d15 would sell for.. everything including axles</TD></TR></TABLE>

With typical 5th gen mileage it's probably worth $6.

JK, maybe $200 with everything in decent condition.

stratedrm

sounds good to me. thanks bro

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stratedrm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im just gonna rock the b20 in my car for now.. just wondering what my d15 would sell for.. everything including axles</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing, give it to a friend.

ek forever guy said 200 - which is peachy, but unlikely.

I've found running Z6's for a 6 pack of beer - they're not a motor that's in high demand, and they're a dime a dozen. You'd be really lucky if you could unload that motor for $200, that's high, even for a Z6 or Y8 that's high. ****, me and my friend picked up a Y8 for helping move somebody's refrigerator into their house from the back of their truck.

Good condition and low mileage I'd say maybe $0-$100. If you say everything including the axles you might be able to swing 200 to somebody who doesn't know **** about motors. You have to remember that most cars have a D series motor in them already - so they don't need the axles and shift linkage, etc. etc.

Though other than the cost of the B7, think logically. Listen to ek forever guy - the B20 is not a car motor - people DON'T get that.

What do I mean by it's not a car motor? It makes lots of torque down low and standard is paired with an auto trans so it doesn't rev hard and doesn't make power high.

I don't know what's with you ricers that think it's a car motor - IT'S NOT.

It's a truck motor, it's NOT meant to be revved, so on that premise, it HATES to be revved, it can't handle revving too well, therefore the connecting rods are weak as **** and that's really its biggest problem.

If you want a B20 that can MOVE you NEED to swap out the block internals. Yeah, you can do it as is, but you may want to keep in mind to keep the RPM down - even if you're drag racing, don't nail it through the redline like it's a B16 or GSR. Leave yourself a ~500RPM variance before the redline so you don't own the motor.

You got no idea how many blown B20's I've seen simply because idiots think it's an LS w/ more displacement - rev it up to 7500 or some stupid **** like that in a race - dump a rod through the block, or wonder why the engine only lasted them 5,000 miles.

Just remember, it hates to be revved and has internals meant for LOW RPM.

If you're gonna be daily driving it - no need to worry, even on an occasional race, you don't need to worry, just be weary of the redline and like I said - maybe shifting ~500 RPM before it will help its life dramatically. Though if you wanna make that **** haul *** - don't pull all the power you can out of it by running high HP on its stock internals or shifting higher, the motor just CAN'T handle it.

My advice unless it's ONLY a daily driver is to get it sleeved w/ new pistons/rods. It's not too expensive - you don't need 800hp rods unless you're going that high - it just replaces the stock, weak ones. You can even bump the comp ratio a bit too, put some more power out of it .

Though I'm just trying to forewarn you, drive it like an LS or ****, even an EX, you're gonna dump a rod before you know what happened.

The only thing I can recommend is instead of trying to sell the D series - KEEP it so your car isn't down if you blow the B20. You can swap the D back in in a day.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only thing I can recommend is instead of trying to sell the D series - KEEP it so your car isn't down if you blow the B20. You can swap the D back in in a day.
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Very good point, the D isn't worth selling if you run such a "risque" motor.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Very good point, the D isn't worth selling if you run such a "risque" motor.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey bro, if he runs it right and takes care of it, it'll take care of him.

If he runs it like a B16, give him 6 months TOPS.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey bro, if he runs it right and takes care of it, it'll take care of him..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know. But it's hard for most people to get past the mentality of having a CRV, not a fast swap like they expect the b20 to be.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I know. But it's hard for most people to get past the mentality of having a CRV, not a fast swap like they expect the b20 to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the ricer logic, "it's an LS w/ +.2L."

dthug

i dont think 7500 is bad at all for a b20. i had a b20 swap in my hatch for 6+ months and i drove it hard alot. i had a stock ls computer so just use that redline. my car always ran fine and i never had any problems. once you start to take your b20 to 8k+ then i would reccomend changes out the rod bolts to arp at least.

stratedrm

yea its just a daily driver.. im not going to try to make it something it isnt.. ive driven crvs... they really dont enjoy the high revs. im probably just going to hold onto my d15.. its not a bad idea to have just in case.


or i could pull it apart... build an all motor sohc non-vtec.. ITBs, cam.. haha. (not really.)