B_CRUZ!

well I am back. after 2 weeks of no internet and vacation from work wasn't enough for me to solve my idle problem.

I have a 95 gs-r motor in a 94 CX and it is still idling at 1000 even. I have narrowed it down to the ecu and/or PCV valve and here are my reasons why.

I have checked all of the vacuum hoses and there are no leaks. they are all routed to the proper place according to my Helm's.

When the IACV is bypassed(aluminum is blocking the passage), and the idle adjustment screw is tightened all of the way, the car doesn't start which tells me that it is not getting any air into the intake manifold at all.

Everything is stock except for a 9.5 flywheel. Lightened flywheel users, has it affected your idle at all?

The p72 ECU I am running is chipped by Katman, but i removed the little wire jumper which makes it run on the stock program. which is true because the secondaries are functioning again.

Somebody help me please. I thought that I could solve this idle problem of mines in the 2 week vacation that I had but it just made my vacation misrable(sp?)

TIA

B_Cruz

Spade

Replace your throttle body gasket?

Is your throttle cable too tight?

B_CRUZ!

cable has a lot of play and the I have used a new Honda OEM gasket everytime I removed it.

I am just thinking of bypassing the IACV for the test. I bypassed it for a while but cold morning starts suck. When I do this, does this harm the alternator?

B_CRUZ!

bump

Archidictus

Lightened flywheels, in my personal experience, cause different fluctuations in the idle, but they don't cause a higher stall all the time. I can't think of anything that you haven't tried yet

B_CRUZ!

darn.
me neither. i have adjusted the throttle rotor stop, tps, timing, no vacuum leaks, i didn't switch around any of the wiring plugs, new t/b and IM gaskets, loosened the throttle rotor, changed the spark plugs, switched throttle bodies and IACV, changed oil, cut my hands in various ways.... cried, gave up, smoked a cigarette... you get the picture.

Doctor CorteZ

fast idle thermo switch acting funny ?

how are you adjusting your idle ? with the EACV unplugged ?

B_CRUZ!

I bypassed the FITV last night and it really didn't make a difference.

I am adjusting it with the IACV unplugged and the weird thing is that when i unplug it, the idle goes down to 800 from 1000... but it is supposed to be at 450 +or - 50 unplugged.

B_CRUZ!

would a PCV valve make a difference?

94gsr

Bypassed it as in, you just removed the coolant lines, or you took it off completely & plugged the holes?

B_CRUZ!

i plugged the holes with a piece of an aluminum can. coolant still flows through it.

Doctor CorteZ

its easy to check , just shake it.

when you blocked off the FITV did you screw it shut ? I bypassed mine and HAD idle issues , then rear you need to close the valve or else it will idle fugged up , I havent redone it since so I cant really comment alot on that.

have you checked TPS voltage yet ?

I'm kinda just talking out loud...

B_CRUZ!

i'll try that...
tps voltage has been checked and it is within spec. i bypassed the fitv by blocking off the hole that air enters through. i only blocked off one hole because the other one is coolant and the other one is another vacuum. but by covering one of the vacuum holes, it wouldn't affect the other...

B_CRUZ!

i also bled the coolant each time i removed the throttle body.

scn095

Just shaking a PCV valve will NOT tell you it's working correctly. If the spring inside is broken you can still get a rattle, but the valve will not be working correctly.

The best way to test the PCV valve is to stick a thin object like a pencil or pen in the hole at the bottom and gently push on the plunger. You get a much better idea of the condition, and if you feel resistance (however slight) AND it pushes back up when you pull the pencil back out you have a good-working PCV valve.

B_CRUZ!

thanks for the tip... i'll try it tonight/