crexsi

Let me explain my problem and what I have tried. I'll start by saying i'm no mechanic and this is my first swap.

It's a 95 d16z6 (Came out of an automatic) into a 93 civic cx, using the CX engine harness with p28 ecu (Auto converted to manual) and pinned for vtec.

The car starts, and runs. The idle seems ok for a little bit then it will practically stutter out of no where until it's ready to stall. Then the idle will come back up and idle normal again.

Secondly, I've drove the car twice since the swap to test everything and break in the clutch. Both times I drove the car I got on it at least once to see if vtec was engaging and to get a feel for the new swap. BOTH times after getting on it, the car goes into "Limp" mode where it literally has no power, sounds like it's screaming and going no where. Feels like it's running on 1 cylinder or something.

Things i've tried:
Cleaned Vtec Solenoid
Cleaned the FITV
Cleaned IACV - Tried a different IACV off another d16z6
New Cap / Rotor / Coil / Plug Wires
Tried another dizzy from another z6
Checked for vacuum leaks (none)
Checked & Re-did the timing like 10 times (Mechanical & Ignition timing is on)
Cleaned pretty much every port on the intake manifold with Carb cleaner
Cleaned the gunk out of the hose running from Intake Manifold through down to the back of the block into the black box.

It also sounds like it has a bit of misfire when down shifting and idling you can hear the popping in the exhaust.

In the video you can see the stutter issue, don't mind the wining from the timing belt / cam gear, I over tightened the timing belt, that is fixed now. This is the only video I have at the moment of the stutter, but I can take more.

I have posted this on another forums but I haven't got much of a response and I'm not sure exactly where to go next.

I'm in the middle of trying to locate a multi-meter to check the TPS on the throttle body and make sure the correct voltage / calibration.



If anyone has ANY suggestion on where to go next, I am all ears. I've been trouble shooting this issue for a week now and every mechanic in my local area pretty much told me to **** off because of the different motor in the car.

Also I live in NORTHEAST. PA so if there is anyone in the area or can recommend someone to take a look at it. I appreciate it.

crexsi

Also forgot to add, blead / checked the coolant for air.
As well as no check engine lights.

crexsi

Put it on a computer my friend used at a garage, we were sitting idle and it started stuttering. The map sensor started spiking out of control along with the EAVC. Went home, swapped the map sensor with a known good one. Still the same issue...

Anyone got anything?

crexsi

Went and got new ngk spark plugs, made sure the gap was .44, drove home, brought the rpms up to about 6k in 3rd gear. Coming off the exit absolutely no power all the way home.

Anyone?

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

TPS like you suspect is what I would check next, also I would try a different ecu.
I had a stuttering problem (actually the engine not me) ,complete lack of power at times,that I could not figure out--turned out to be the ecu (I was using an automatic ecu in a manual-not saying that you cannot use an auto ecu in a manual successfully but in this case it went bad.

Lizardslap

start checking weird things like alternator bearings are bad or some crap and fuel pressure and possibly a compression test

crexsi

Well, i attempted to swap the TPS today with one I had off another z6 motor, and failed at taking the TPS off my throttle body and broke one of the screws off inside.

Tomorrow I think I might have a friend that will let me try his, and if it works i'll buy it off of him.

As far as ECU, I tried a chipped p06 and it gave me the same issue, but it's still not out of the question yet.

After I try TPS, I will be moving forward to things like compression / fuel pressure, along with another ECU.

I appreciate the advice guys.

Zen_Life

honestly, it sounds like a fuel restriction problem to me. new injectors? could be clogged, filter also. if sputtering like you say, I normally start with the spark then move to fuel. gl with the fix.


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crexsi

The injector are from a d15 if that makes any difference. The original injectors were leaking. They are the same injectors, yes?

Zen_Life

I know the displacement is different on the d15b7 and d16z6. dont know if that would call for different injectors. so far, that would probably be my next step. changing injectors. then again, im working on a z6 swap muself, and it will only get partd for a z6. dont care for cost as long as it runs properly.


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strategy400

Where did you obtain the swap and what is the condition and history of the motor? Could be a bent/bad/sticking valve or valve out of adjustment. Have you done a compression test?

crexsi

Well, i just wanted to thank you because you have solved the problem with one shot.

Come to find out, the injectors that were put in it were from a d15b8 (190cc) and i need 240cc. So it was getting fuel cuts and running super lean. Good thing i didnt drive the car far at all, maybe 2 miles at most or else it could of done more damage.

But i wanted to thank you and if anyone is unsure, it's official D15B8 injectors are infact smaller.
i actually got the motor from new jersey with a 90 day start up warranty but the motor sat for about a year before i was actually able to use it lol.

Thanks everyone for their input.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Anything attached to the head, stays on the head.

crexsi

aint that the truth i had to take them out and swap them because when the fuel pump would turn on it would spray gas all over. Replaced the seals on the original injectors, gave them a good cleaning and bam works like new.

This was my first swap, live and learn! I'm no mechanic lol i cook for a living.

Zen_Life

glad to help sir! awesome to hear that its running properly with no damage done!


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