BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

I have a 2000 Si. Modifications to engine are minimal: SRI, Comptech header, oem cat, oem exhaust, and oem ECU. The car will start up and the idle will naturally be high while the engine is cold. When the engine warms up it drops to a normal idle level (700-800 rpms). Then at random, it could be after 5 minutes or an hour after normal city driving, when I come to a stoplight the idle will quickly climb to 1500rpms.

Once it enters this "condition", its affects the driveability of the car. It makes it extremely hard to get the car rolling in first gear. The friction point on the clutch is extremely touchy. If you lightly add throttle, in neutral, from idle (1500) the engine bogs/sputters from 1500 up to 2000 rpms bad. If you give it more than 20% throttle it will rev in neutral normally from 2000 rpms to redline.
This makes it really tough to get the car rolling again at a stop light. You have to rev the engine up past 2000 rpms to avoid stalling the car. If you let the clutch pedal up too quickly it shoots the car forward.
Once you get the car rolling the gear shifts are really rough; let off the throttle, put the clutch pedal in, select the gear, and once you start to let the clutch pedal off the floor and add throttle you can feel a really rough transition. If you're cruising along at 40mph, at 3000 rpms with a moderate throttle position and just let off the gas (to slow down, not for a gear change), you can feel the drivetrain "jump forward".

If I turn the car off and start it back up again the high idle and crappy driveability goes away and the car will drive normally again. So this leads me to believe that the problem is somehow related to a faulty sensor. IACV? FITV?

Any thoughts?


Modified by BlueTeg at 8:33 AM 11/10/2008

z6hatchboy

Any codes? Since its not jumping (idle) i would think fitv more than iacv. but didnt obd2 engines lose the fitv? Anyways, you might check the tps sensor and see if its good too.

_smitty_

try cleaning your iacv with carb cleaner. if that doesnt work then that one might be shot.

mattyv

Check your coolent. it can cause idling problems and is often over looked while ur driving it could be cooling down the car and when you hit a red light it heats up again. Just a thought and an easy check

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

No codes.

Not sure

SOHC_4dr

obd2 did lose them. blueteg you should do more searching because i have seen this topic to much tonight. this topic is to common

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

This exact same situation? I haven't seen anything that matches this.

I've seen erratic idle threads, but if you read my thread, its not an erratic idle or constantly high idle.

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

bump for a frustrated EM1 owner.