chinese acrobat

Hi, i was figuring out if i had a vacuum leak anywhere but dont so i checked the ecu and I got code 54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor.

Would that have anything to do with my my idle problem ?


I'm probably going to remove the tb and clean the iacv again to see if that fixes it.

I was unable to get a reading from the tps ''middle wire'' but the outside ones gave me readings. With ignition on on.

Also is the tps suppose to create suction with the car running?

and when i give it throttle it starts to choke and almost turn off

Car: 98 DX Civic

Former User

You need to fix the CKF code. Did you recently have the timing belt replaced? Maybe you forgot to plug back in the CKF connector located just forward of the alternator?

Did you mistakenly take voltage measurements from the MAP sensor?

chinese acrobat

I checked the sensor and the pins were loose and coming out so I pushed them back in but they seem to wiggle out.

I'll probably put some epoxy on it to hold them in.

chinese acrobat

still getting the same code even having someone manually hold them in

does this have anything to do with the idling problem?

Former User

Install a new connector and go from there.

chinese acrobat

I was searching and somone had pointed out the fuel pump as a possible suspect to throw this code, but i dont believe how one could relate to the other?

Former User

Yeah, I don't see the connection. Fix the connector and go from there.

chinese acrobat

I'm probably going to replace it. The tb gasket was leaking. I sprayed the cleaner and it was soaked at one spot so that where i think it is.

Adjusting the sensor wont fix it? how can i find out if its bad?

The cel always comes back.

Former User

An intake air leak could certainly cause a hunting idle.

If repairing the connector doesn't fix the CEL code, then use a multimeter to check the CKF wires. If those are fine, then the CKF sensor or ECU might be bad. Start by replacing the sensor. There's no way to adjust a CKF sensor.

chinese acrobat

Yeah, i found the test procedure

''for a 98 civic ex coupe all you need is a ohm meter to check for resistance between pins 1 and 3 (1.6-3.2k ohms) if its not that then replace the ckf sensor

then check for ground from pin 1 and ground from pin 3 of the ckf sensor(it should be open when you check between the pins and body ground) if there is continuity, then replace the ckf sensor

Then measure resistance between c1 and c11(harness side) if there isn't 1.6-3.2k ohms then fix your open wire.

Then check for ground from c1(harness side) to body ground, if there is conintuity then fix the short

keep in mind that this was the procedure for a p1337 on a 98 civic ex coupe''

Should be the same for my dx.

chinese acrobat

and the stuff i had already done but now have to do again just to get this sensor done..uggh

For safety disconnect the battery, losen all drive belts,including alternator from the top screw if you reach it from the upper side with a 12 MM socket or wrench,then take off driver side front tire, remove two plastic pins from the engine splash guard with a 10 mm socket or wrench, get the splash guard down, now you support the engine with a hydraulic jack (I will recommend to use a piece of flat board of wood or plywood in between jack and engine) and put a jack stand on where removed tire, now take off Lower engine mount with a 14mm socket or 9/16, since we have supported the engine with a jack possible get off the upper left (driver side engine mount,so we will be able of moving up and down the engine since we will remove three screws of the bottom part of the timing belt cover, plus de AC idler pulley,but before that we also could start taking the belts off the crank shaft pulley,which is the pully where all three drive belts go to, this pulley there is only two ways to get it out since on Hondas they do come so thight, one is with the air gun, second is using a vice grip with a chain on the tip and thight it well and hold it very strong while some one tries to get it out with a very stron rachet and 3/4 socket or 19 mm. is recommended to use long extensions on the rachet, once you get the pulley out get the screws off the timing belt cover but just the lower part of the cover 3 10mm screws,plus remove the ac idler pully which is the small pulley on the midle of the lower part of the cover once you get the pulley out you get the cover out, and follow the cable that comes down by the oil pan and remove the screw of the golden angle that ends right on the left of the timing belt for and easy assambly of the new sensor is better to remove the other screw on the little angle of metal, just follow the same rod for the wire and that's it, connect it, put the cover back, install all drive belts in position and insert them on to the crank shaft pulley, and thight it good including belts, cover it back and you set the engine mounts back on set your tire back get the Jacks out plug your battery and done.!!!!

chinese acrobat

RonJ, I finally got my cfk in and now car still surges. I suspect its the black box causing the surge.

Cause I can hear it but cant find it.

check engine light is on and stays on when i got the paperclip in

Former User

What do you mean by black box?

CEL: You have a short in the service connector wire or the CEL wire.

chinese acrobat

The breather box behind the block.


I get to work on it today. I'll let you know whats up.

Going to try the stethoscope method.

Former User

Just unplug the PCV hose from the IM and then plug the IM nozzle with your finger or something else to see if the idle surge stops.

chinese acrobat

put a new pcv and all new hoses and still does the same thing

idled fine for 2 minutes and then started to surge

could it be the coolant temp sensor?

im gonna go recheck for vac leak

chinese acrobat

Surging starts when engine hits operating temps. No leaks. Choked motor out.

After new ect installed. Surging persists.

Found that the lower coolant hose was not as hot as upper. Will be replacing thermostat.

Could this be the fix?

No check engine light.

chinese acrobat

Fan is not working now, it used to but i just tested it by turning on the a/c and a high pitched drone/clanking noise came out of the bay and no fan on. fan motor??

I will be installing a fan switch i got. see if it works.

chinese acrobat

Off to change my thermostat. Hopefully that will fix my idle problem.

Will update with results.

rick_rabies

i had this problem until i bled the coolant and got all the air out then it smoothed out

chinese acrobat

Alright

New thermostat and fan switch - both hoses are hot and fan will not turn on

Turn on AC and the surging stops

Fan motor ? or is it the relay? I nudge the fan blade and nothing happens.

And will this finally solve the surging? a working rad fan?

Former User

Unplug and then jump the 2P fan switch connector on the thermostat housing. Does the fan now run?

I think you have air trapped in the cooling system, as Rick suggested. This can cause overheating and a surging idle. Follow the procedure below to bleed the system.

Did you fix the intake air leak from the TB gasket?

Is the CKF sensor problem fixed?

Is the CEL still on? Are you able to pull codes by either jumping the service connector or by using an OBDII scan tool?


--------------------

This bleed procedure may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

chinese acrobat

Will do this today when it stops raining. Hopefully before 5.

No leaks from TB. CFK plugged in.

No CEL or check engine light

When I bled the coolant I didnt raise the front. So will do that when I go out jump the switch.

Thanks alot RonJ you've been very helpful.

One more thing, can the im gasket be leaking even after choking the car out by putting palm over the TB?

chinese acrobat

I just went to bleed the air and the surging changed.

It takes small surges then a big surge and then back to a small surge.??

Got to check the fan still.


Alot of white smoke exhaust and then it settled out. Smelt burnt. It took longer for the car to start surging

chinese acrobat

RonJ, I jumped the taps and nothing happened.

Ac fan works though