IACV block off plate?
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IACV block off plate?
I have a B16B in a 99 coupe obd-1 spoon cams, the car used to idle perfectly and then recently it started being shitty and im sick of my idle problem going up and down from 1100 to 1500 rpms... ive looked at everything i cleaned the iacv with brake cleaner, tried different computers obd-1 and obd-2, tried to bleed the coolant looked for vacum leaks, checked manifold and throttle body for cracks and nothing its all perfect and im tired of it its SOOOOO annoying
If i were to create a block off plate between the intake manifold and the IACV so that there was no air going into it and then loop the coolant lines. would the car idle when cold out??
or if it didnt could i create a small hole in the block off plate to create less of a vacum leak into the iacv to make it idle right???
give me some options im about to go do some home depot performance
When the car is warm with the iacv not connected it idles good but low at like 650 rpms
ill give you a scenario on my problem to begin with:
1) idle screw half way
Car is cold idle jumps up and down till i start to drive it and then when it gets warm the car will idle fine when i drive it around and come to stops it will idle but high at 1200 rpms, but if i turn off the car for a second and turn the car back on then the idle will jump around from the same 1100 to 1500 and then after i drive it for a few min then the idle will be fine again around 1200 rpms.
2) idle screw all the way in
Car idles fine when cold but when warm at any time will jump from 1100 to 1500
3) idle screw all the way out
Car idles wayyyyy to high to even try it for long
Modified by Morhpeous at 9:47 AM 5/4/2006
If i were to create a block off plate between the intake manifold and the IACV so that there was no air going into it and then loop the coolant lines. would the car idle when cold out??
or if it didnt could i create a small hole in the block off plate to create less of a vacum leak into the iacv to make it idle right???
give me some options im about to go do some home depot performance
When the car is warm with the iacv not connected it idles good but low at like 650 rpms
ill give you a scenario on my problem to begin with:
1) idle screw half way
Car is cold idle jumps up and down till i start to drive it and then when it gets warm the car will idle fine when i drive it around and come to stops it will idle but high at 1200 rpms, but if i turn off the car for a second and turn the car back on then the idle will jump around from the same 1100 to 1500 and then after i drive it for a few min then the idle will be fine again around 1200 rpms.
2) idle screw all the way in
Car idles fine when cold but when warm at any time will jump from 1100 to 1500
3) idle screw all the way out
Car idles wayyyyy to high to even try it for long
Modified by Morhpeous at 9:47 AM 5/4/2006
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Re: IACV block off plate? (Morhpeous)
Sounds like that you are having the same problem with the iacv that I had in my B16. My idle went all funky after I re-routed the coolant lines...but It never ran right...so I just hooked the iacv back up and forgot about it.
I would really like to hear if anyone has any input about this problem as I had a similar scenario and could not ammend it.
I would really like to hear if anyone has any input about this problem as I had a similar scenario and could not ammend it.
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Re: IACV block off plate? (SiRMike)
Yeah im going to goto home depot prob tommorow and going to trace out my iacv onto a peice of steel and then cut it out and try to fabricate something.... ill let you know if it works...
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Re: IACV block off plate? (Morhpeous)
my friend did the trace out on to a peice of sheet metal and used silicone as a sealer and but 2 short bolts on it and it worked fine!
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Re: IACV block off plate? (Morhpeous)
Got the peice of metal and cut it down to size made the holes for the IACV and then mounted it, All idle problems GONE!!!
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Re: IACV block off plate? (Morhpeous)
im having the same problem on my B18B. First cold starts/first starts it jumps to 2500 then it starts to idle up and down from 1500-2000. Its really annoying. I even tried cleaning the IACV out and still nothing.
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My JDM B16A first gen had and idle problem like that. I cleaned the IACV and it still had jumping. So what I did was I turned my IDLE SCREW on the throttle body all the way down. I mean lock that **** all the way DOWN! So now I idle at .7 and it doesn't jump anymore. In regard to what Morhpeous was saying. I was wondering if you could take pictures of what you did exactly so i can do the same. I dont know if turning my IDLE SCREW all the down to prevent idle jump is any healthy for my engine. THANKS !
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Re: (JDM B16A)
its already on the car installed so pictures prob might not help that much all i did was:
1) take off the IACV from motor (make sure you dont loose the rubber gasket)
2) bought a peice of 2mm-3mm thick steel
3) Traced the iacv with marker onto the steel and traced the bolt holes
4) Drilled out the bolt holes
5) took dremel and cut out block off plate
6) got some silicone to use as gasket for the intake manifold -> block off plate
only for that side cause you can use the rubber gasket for the IACV -> block off plate
side.
7) put bolts in and installed
8) then turn car on it might shut off due to not alot of vacum being sucked through the throttle body. so i unscrwed the idle screw pretty far out and works fine if you want to get idle good then you can just mess with the throttle cable a bit.
1) take off the IACV from motor (make sure you dont loose the rubber gasket)
2) bought a peice of 2mm-3mm thick steel
3) Traced the iacv with marker onto the steel and traced the bolt holes
4) Drilled out the bolt holes
5) took dremel and cut out block off plate
6) got some silicone to use as gasket for the intake manifold -> block off plate
only for that side cause you can use the rubber gasket for the IACV -> block off plate
side.
7) put bolts in and installed
8) then turn car on it might shut off due to not alot of vacum being sucked through the throttle body. so i unscrwed the idle screw pretty far out and works fine if you want to get idle good then you can just mess with the throttle cable a bit.
#15
Unceasing Measure
I don't know if you guys understand the IACV system, but usually once it goes bad it's completely done. Just get a new IACV and this won't be a problem. While cleaning them works on occasion, the wax tends to deteriorate over time and, once that happens, there is nothing you can do to get proper idle characteristics back.
Unless you remove or block the IACV altogether - a seemingly good idea until it becomes really cold outside.
Unless you remove or block the IACV altogether - a seemingly good idea until it becomes really cold outside.
#16
Re: (Archidictus)
wax? You talking FITV or IACV?
Anyway, you have the classic symptoms of a vacuum leak.
The fact that you can screw in your idle screw all the way and the car continues running should tell you that something is very wrong.
You're attempting a solution that doesn't fix the problem, that's not exactly smart. While it could be that the IACV is broke, it could also be that your engine is getting air from somewhere else, and that blocking or unplugging it is just letting no air in the correct way, and your engine is idling via air from the wrong way.
How many holes are inside your throttle body before the butterfly valve?
Anyway, you have the classic symptoms of a vacuum leak.
The fact that you can screw in your idle screw all the way and the car continues running should tell you that something is very wrong.
You're attempting a solution that doesn't fix the problem, that's not exactly smart. While it could be that the IACV is broke, it could also be that your engine is getting air from somewhere else, and that blocking or unplugging it is just letting no air in the correct way, and your engine is idling via air from the wrong way.
How many holes are inside your throttle body before the butterfly valve?
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Re: (Falqon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wax? You talking FITV or IACV?
Anyway, you have the classic symptoms of a vacuum leak.
The fact that you can screw in your idle screw all the way and the car continues running should tell you that something is very wrong.
You're attempting a solution that doesn't fix the problem, that's not exactly smart. While it could be that the IACV is broke, it could also be that your engine is getting air from somewhere else, and that blocking or unplugging it is just letting no air in the correct way, and your engine is idling via air from the wrong way.
How many holes are inside your throttle body before the butterfly valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so to correct the issue is to just change a new throttle body or IACV?
Anyway, you have the classic symptoms of a vacuum leak.
The fact that you can screw in your idle screw all the way and the car continues running should tell you that something is very wrong.
You're attempting a solution that doesn't fix the problem, that's not exactly smart. While it could be that the IACV is broke, it could also be that your engine is getting air from somewhere else, and that blocking or unplugging it is just letting no air in the correct way, and your engine is idling via air from the wrong way.
How many holes are inside your throttle body before the butterfly valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so to correct the issue is to just change a new throttle body or IACV?
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Re: (schardbody)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good luck once winter is back around. have fun holding the throttle open for idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
who exactly are u directing this to?
who exactly are u directing this to?
#20
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Re: (JDM B16A)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM B16A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
who exactly are u directing this to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anybody not running an IACV
who exactly are u directing this to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anybody not running an IACV
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Re: (schardbody)
I have had this done on my civic for 7 years live in PA where the winters are cold no idle problems have occured yet.
Wish I would have seen this post I would have helped you out earlier sorry
Wish I would have seen this post I would have helped you out earlier sorry
#22
Re: (JDM B16A)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM B16A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so to correct the issue is to just change a new throttle body or IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, to begin to correct the issue, tell me how many holes are before the butterfly valve, I am pretty sure he doesn't have a FITV but wanted to confirm.
so to correct the issue is to just change a new throttle body or IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, to begin to correct the issue, tell me how many holes are before the butterfly valve, I am pretty sure he doesn't have a FITV but wanted to confirm.
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Re: (Falqon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, to begin to correct the issue, tell me how many holes are before the butterfly valve, I am pretty sure he doesn't have a FITV but wanted to confirm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will let you know when i get off from work early one day too tired to check but the cars running good now even though it is a ghetto fix
I will let you know when i get off from work early one day too tired to check but the cars running good now even though it is a ghetto fix
#24
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Re: (Morhpeous)
if your running crome there is a fix that disables the cel for the iacv. cut out a gasket, put it between the iacv and the intake mani, unplug it and run the program in crome.
check out pgmfi.org for more info
check out pgmfi.org for more info