Fighterinsnatch

I'm going to follow this DIY https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086. I'm a little confused on some things. When talking about the exhaust and intake valves along with all the different numbers, I start to get confused. Could someone please briefly explain this? thanks

instructor74

That looks like a good DIY. Hope this answers your ? the exhaust and intake valves get set at different gaps (lash). The feeler gauges in the photo look like the have both a metric and standard number stamped on them. That number is the thickness of the gauge. It is helpful to have 2 sets of gauges so you can have one set for the exhaust vales and the other set up for the intake. Make sure you don't get them mixed up.



Modified by instructor74 at 6:38 AM 5/10/2007

EE_Chris

He's trying to save you time by showing you what other valves could be adjusted while #1 is at TDC, for example.

In the Helms, it has you put #1 to TDC and adjust all 4 valves...and that's it. Then rotate the crank 180* and do all 4 valves for #3. The point being that you do ONE cylinder at a time and you do ALL 4 valves per cylinder without skipping around.

Fighterinsnatch

Man I just don't get it. Somewhat of chris said I understood, but I dont know what you mean #1 and TDC. Am I going to adjust the crank 4 times?

Fighterinsnatch

Bump.

When I'm driving and I give it some throttle, I hear ticking. But when I'm just stand still and rev, I dont hear the ticking. Is this symptoms of a exhaust leak (becasue I just changed out the header) or in need of valve adjustment.

EE_Chris

I'm all for helping anyone, but this may be a bit over your head...especially if you haven't procured a Helms to do some initial reading.

When I say #1, I mean the #1 piston which is closest to the timing belt, while #4 would be closest to the distributor. When you rotate the crank (via the crank pulley bolt accesible through the drivers side fender well) and put the #1 piston at TDC (top dead center) on teh compression stroke, then all 4 valves will be closed for the #1 piston. Otherwise if they weren't closed, how would it build compression, right? And we know that #1 is at TDC on teh compression stroke because there are marks on the cam gears and crank pulley/oil pump that were lined up (just look at the Helms) in a particular fashion.

So yes, you'll rotate the crank 180* in order to put the next piston (firing order is 1342) whose valves you need to adjust, at TDC on the compression stroke.

Fighterinsnatch

Thanks for the help Chris and appreciate you being patient. I do all of my own work on my car, this is just something new to me. I've read all the different DIY, I just did'nt quite understand the terms used.