95turbohonda

Need Help~ $$$$ for solution!!!

I have been at a stand still for over a month and made absolutely ZERO progress and am fed up. I am offering $$$ for anyone who has a solution to make my car RUN. This ****** thing has gremlins living in it, i swear. If you would like to come down and troubleshoot yourself, I AM INVITING YOU NOW!!! If you can't fix it, or dont make any progress towards making it run better... no $$$... sorry~ But if you DO!!!.... $$$ !!!!!

If you do not know how to tune, or rebuild an engine, don't even bother replying... Because its just a waste of time (sorry, dont mean to be rude) but you will understand why after you read the issues:

B18a1 engine swapped into 1995 civic, boosted.

B18a1:

TT rods, Wesico pistons, ARP headstuds, Short block all new oem parts (water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc)

Stock head. (non-vtec)

750cc R/C fuel injectors

OBD1 distributor from b18b

cable tranny converted to hydro

Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch

OBD1 d16 alternator. (bolts to b18)

D16z6 speed sensor swapped onto LS tranny

1995 civic:

D16z6 engine harness

only wires altered were for GM 3 bar map sensor, and coolant temp fan switch.

P28 chipped ecu. CromePro tuning, P30 coding bin file with b18b (obd1) maps compensated for 750 injectors, gm 3 bar, and a few other little things (remove checksum, add datalogging, fuel tools, remove vtec, remove o2 input)

AEM uego wideband

255lph walbro fuel pump

all other sensors plugged right in.

***there are NO vacuum leaks. All coolant/heater lines are in stock formation(no shortcuts). Timing belt is PERFECTLY lined up. Ignition is ok i believe. Holds steady fuel pressure (verified w/ guage on line)

i have replaced the Throttle position sensor w/ brand new, and replaced the Idle Air Cntrl solenoid w/ brand new. It does not throw CEL's anymore, but still will not run.

Here are the symptoms... and NO ONE... and i mean NO ONE HAS been able to explain why this is happening.

The car cranks and starts fine. Once started, it holds steady RPMs at about 1500 (cold idle). It stays there for 2-3 seconds, then drops to nothing, puts, and dies.

If i start it again, and step on the throttle... the engine cuts out... i let off the throttle, and it comes back up, but wants to die... So by fluttering gas, it will get the rpms up higher. Once at a higher rpm where it runs, i tried this... AND THIS IS WHAT NO ONE CAN EXPLAIN:

If i hold the throttle @ a certian point to say, 4k rpm... i will not move my foot... the engine will stay there for 2-3 seconds, then drop to nothing and die... THUS, ELIMINATING the un-tuned charicteristics of low rpms, or high vacuum.

The frustrating part is that i can't get an accurate wideband reading, because the ******* ENGINE SHUTS OFF BEFORE THE AEM DOES ITS GOD DAMN COUNTING START UP ROUTINE!!!!

Now here is the real zinger....

I managed to get out of my driveway w/ the car by bliping the throttle... i drove up the street a bit... and as soon as the engine bogged enough and built a little boost, the thing CAME TO LIFE!!! AND RIPPED!!!! but only in boost.

WHY WONT THE ******* CAR RUN?!?!?!

Hooked up cromepro datalogging, and ALL SENSORS ARE READING OK!!!

I think it is most likely a fuel problem... but even still... it shouldn't just CUT OUT INSTANTLY!!!

I've tried switching plugs, re-gaping plugs, altering fuel pressure a little bit, but getting the proper fuel pressure is hard WHEN THE ENGINE WONT ******* IDLE SO I CAN TAKE THE DAMN VACUUM LINE OFF to turn the fuel pressure regulator!!!





This damn thing has stumped ALL THE SMARTES HONDA / ACURA PEOPLE I KNOW AROUND rHODE iSLAND, and even the smart guys that friends of mine know... everyone is stumped!!!

If your close to Rhode Island and want to make some bucks if you can.... Let me know!!!

turbohonda@***.net if you want to get in touch,
or my AIM is weaselthing

Thanks~ Kevin

watsvtecEK

were did you get the valve cover? bumpp

95turbohonda

I made it
It's an LS valve cover. I used metal bondo filler... i forget the actual name of it, but i found it in NAPA. I used dixie cups to keep the holes for the spark plug wires.

bmoua

cant help you but the LS valve cover looks pretty cool...something different

KnightX

i dont know if this would help but... after my swap i ran into the same prob where the engine would cut out after it started for about 2-3 sec.. i was playin wit timin and everything for like almost 2 weeks.. i started checkin on the fuel rail with a test light... sometimes it'll give me one ground and one power... and sometimes it would give me both ground.. i was really lost at the time and ive checked all the stupid wires and everything was right... then i got to a point where i was sick of it and iwas just goin to wire it to the ECU for power and ground it somewhere... so as i starting takin the TB out slowly... guess what i found... a loose ground for the injectors....the bolt was on but it was not tight... so after i tighten that stupid ground on the TB i fired it up and WALA! shes alive...

its just a guess but just try checkin on it neways.. just to be on the safe side.. its not gonna take u long and that MIGHT be it... 1stupid loose ground cased the car to sit for 2 weeks...

good luck keep us updated

fdjizm

did you try another distributor? maybe the ignitor is bad.. ?

RoadconeTuning

sounds map related to me...

Preferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dude29662 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds map related to me...</TD></TR></TABLE> I was thinking the same thing. And just to let you know, even the most advanced equipment, like motus and autologic, have shown sensors to be good, but come to find out, after pure desperation, that they were in fact not.

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dude29662 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds map related to me...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, but it sounds like you switched your MAP and TPS plugs. Also what does your wideband read while at idle and when your blipping it?

Relic1

The wideband readings will show a lot. Is it possible to get the wideband to tuern on but the car does not start?... then simply let the wideband do it's start up routine and then start the car. I have a PLX so I'm not sure how the AEM works.
I have a feeling you're pig rich. That will cause exactly what you are describing. It's especially common with resized maps for larger injectors.
Also do you have the Injector Battery Offset setup for your injectors? This will make a huge difference if it's way off.
Which basemap did you start with?
P30 or P72 base?

To check for a timing/ignition problem... connect a timing light, start the car, when the car dies does the light stop flashing?

If you want to send me your bin I can take a look.

VTcivicHB

check all your grounds. when you painted the valve cover did you scrape the paint off that ground? I had a friend that had almost the same problem and he just added a ground from the IM to the chassis and thing runs perfect now! good luck

dek1mfk

sounds like the map n tps plug is switched mines had the exact problem when i did my ls swap and wen i switched the plugs it ran liek it came from the factory and still does til this day..

nx2kjl

I did a B18 swap with turbo...lots a similarities to you set-up. We had a problem almost identical to yours. The problem ended up being in the wiring harness. The fuel injector plugs were put on reversed. Such as the 1st connector was where the 4th connector should be etc... Check your fuel injector harness, if its wrong it will run very similar as it does when its off timing, and would still run pretty good under boost.

95turbohonda

Thanks for all the advice... and i'll try to address all of them.

As far as teh Map... i'm 100% sure its fine, because its a GM 3 bar mounted on the firewall. I never took it out of the car during the swap, and it was in the garage the entire time. So tps and map are not switched. (they're different plugs now anyway because of the GM 3 bar. The gm sensor was running fine in my D16 engine also... So that's not the problem.

Distributor: I tried switching it w/ a d16z6 dizzy (also obd1, just different bolt pattern) and it did the same thing... same symptoms.

Ground wires: The 4 wire ground for the engine harness is bolted to the thermostat housing. I also ran a jumper wire from that 4wire ground harness directly to the NEG battery terminal, as well as the valve cover ground... SAME symptoms, no change. I took a grinding wheel to where the grounds touch the block/valve cover/ body, so i'm 100% positive they are grounded.

Wide Band readings: If i turn the car on to ACC, the wideband turns on... but when i go to crank the car... it shuts off again and goes back on (like the radio)... So i cant get the reading... When i'm bliping the gas to keep it running... the reading jumps wildly from 12 to 17 on average. (my aem reads from 10-18)

Fuel injector wires: I'm not sure what your talking about with the Throttle Body ground for the Fuel Injector wires... ???? The wires come out of the harness that also goes to the temp sensor on the IM. KinghtX, If you can explain this a little more, i can check it out.


And thanks guys about my valve cover!!! The idea was from a friend of mine, so i wont take credit, but i was the one who acctually did it up.


Any more suggestions?

95turbohonda

J1mmyyyyy~ What valve cover build off are you talking about??!!

95turbohonda

Nx2kjl~ I will check that again... but i was 99% sure i put them in the right order... i did a wire tuck w/ them, and they are pretty obvious as far as lengths... but i'll check.

It still doesnt tell me why the engine would run and hold a steady rpm for 2-3 seconds... THEN JUST DIE INSTANTLY like it is~~~

blu3g

Is your car a DX?? Because I think DX's have a separate plug that goes to the MAP sensor.

jeffsciv23

wow i never knew you could use a d16 dizzy on a LS.

95turbohonda

Blu- my car is an Ex coupe 1995.

jeff- you can run any obd1 dizzy on any honda engine... they just dont all bolt up the same. They all turn 360 degrees, and split it into 4 sparks... the differance is placement.... Such as the B18, the flat side of the dizzy cap faces straight up, where the flat side of the d16 dizzy cap is angled about 45* forward

Luserkid

Can you send me a copy of your bin? If you want my email is in my profile, shoot me a PM telling me you are so i know. Or if you can host it somewhere to download cause i think thats where your problems lying.

spork motorsports

sounds like hes rich but does it start up withoutr back firing or spuddering the next time after it shuts off?

JSPECSIR

my car does the exact same thing. i just finished puting it together, and im waiting until my sat. off in march so i can take it up to matt shue for tuning. but heres the catch, mine only does it with my motorola 2.5 bar hooked up and setup in crome. if i change it back to my honda map sensor and change it back in crome, it will crank up and run. not like oem honda, but damn good for bigger injectors and such. ive verified my wiring, and it is correct. so if you have your oem map, id say try it and see what happens. ive got plugs for both of mine so i can switch back and forth easily until matt sets up my partial throttles and idle with the 2.5 bar. hope this helps.

tha_badguy

i had similar problems with a loose vtec controller harness plug

it would throw the map cel
then bog & die out
& wouldnt want to start up after that

i think its definately ur map

try probing ur map with a ohm meter

HiProfile

First off, the GM 3bar usually sucks when it comes to reading vacuum. Its not a very linear sensor. Second, you can't toss in a diff size MAP and expect it to run w/o adding/removing fuel to get it started. It sounds like its adding fuel at startup from the Injector Battery Offset, then going to 'normal' maps, which are too lean. I know when I first played with Uberdata, simply scaling from 240cc's to 780cc's lead to 2-3 AFR points more lean. I attributed that to Uber being gay and peak/hold injectors not being as responsive.

Or the map overall is too lean, and when you blip the throttle, the TPS/Throttle Enrichment makes it just rich enough to keep running.

Or theres just not enough flow through the TB, and you've had an odd occurance of a failed IACV and FITV and idle screw (plugged?), meaning almost zero air flow at 0% throttle.

BTW the wideband will be useless for the first 10-30 seconds. The wideband has to heat to a few hundred degrees for it to read properly. What you can do (what I do for tuning other cars w/little setup time) is wire the +/- leads on the wideband right to the battery (use a fuse), or the non-switched hot lead going to your radio. You'd want it on a possitive lead that doesn't see big swings in current like a radio supply would once you start tuning.

If I were you, I'd swap out the injectors & 3bar for stock, then open the J1 ecu jumper and try it as a stock p28. It will give a vtec CEL, but it should at least start. From there, add 1 item at a time, hopefully semi-tuning after a successful part is added.

btw my paypal is redvette@wi.rr.com if anything helps

Archidictus

Just curious...do you need a special driver to run the GM MAP sensor or do you really just throw it on and go?

This seriously sounds like a MAP issue. Boosted engine, shitty start-up characteristics, shitty pre-boost response, perfect running in positive PSI.

Repost this in Forced Induction so more of the Honda-Tech cream will have a chance to help you out. EG+ is alright...if you want JDM side mirror opinions.