I need new brake pads.. Should I get just pads or new rotors too?
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I need new brake pads.. Should I get just pads or new rotors too?
Well I got my oil changed at Honda a couple of weeks ago and they said my rear pads need to be changed soon. I figured I would just replace both the front and rear pads with aftermarket pads and trash the OEM ones. But I was also wondering If I need new rotors. How do I know if the rotors need to be replaced or if they are worn? Is it worth getting drilled and slotted rotors? How much do they usually go for? What advantages do they bring?
So yea what are some good pads that I can use on my 00 civic si. Nothing to expensive, but something that would stop my car quickly. If you provide a link to where I can buy them, that would also be great.
Thanks
So yea what are some good pads that I can use on my 00 civic si. Nothing to expensive, but something that would stop my car quickly. If you provide a link to where I can buy them, that would also be great.
Thanks
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Get them from Autozone. $28, IIRC (each for the fronts). They come with a 2 year warranty, so if they warp, take them back.
For pads, I've really liked Axxis Ultimates (from Cobalt Friction). They bite pretty good. But they do dust more than OEM's.
And no reason to get x-drilled or slotted. Waste of money.
For pads, I've really liked Axxis Ultimates (from Cobalt Friction). They bite pretty good. But they do dust more than OEM's.
And no reason to get x-drilled or slotted. Waste of money.
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Re: (p nut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p nut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get them from Autozone. $28, IIRC (each for the fronts). They come with a 2 year warranty, so if they warp, take them back.
For pads, I've really liked Axxis Ultimates (from Cobalt Friction). They bite pretty good. But they do dust more than OEM's.
And no reason to get x-drilled or slotted. Waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So basically people just do drilled and slotted for looks? Don't they also keep the brakes/rotors cooler?
How do I know if my current rotors are good? Any tell tale signs that they need to be replaced?
Also any more suggestions on good pads would be greatly appreciated.
For pads, I've really liked Axxis Ultimates (from Cobalt Friction). They bite pretty good. But they do dust more than OEM's.
And no reason to get x-drilled or slotted. Waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So basically people just do drilled and slotted for looks? Don't they also keep the brakes/rotors cooler?
How do I know if my current rotors are good? Any tell tale signs that they need to be replaced?
Also any more suggestions on good pads would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: (Razr2)
drilled/slotted rotors quit working in the 70's when they came out with the current pad materials.
Formula one cars have blanks, nascar cars have blanks, etc etc.
Formula one cars have blanks, nascar cars have blanks, etc etc.
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Re: (Razr2)
i replaced my rotors with auto zone $28 specials and my car had like a 89456378945678456 foot 70-0 braking distance.
then replaced those later on with a Power Slot oversized kit and my car stops better than my bosses V70-R (roughly 200 whp) which has like 13" dual piston calipers and AWD. best upgrade I've ever done to my car, ever... and they NEVER rust.
edit: EBC pads on both setups
then replaced those later on with a Power Slot oversized kit and my car stops better than my bosses V70-R (roughly 200 whp) which has like 13" dual piston calipers and AWD. best upgrade I've ever done to my car, ever... and they NEVER rust.
edit: EBC pads on both setups
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drilled/slotted rotors quit working in the 70's when they came out with the current pad materials.
Formula one cars have blanks, nascar cars have blanks, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh okay, good to know. But how can I myself determine if my current rotors need to be replaced?
Formula one cars have blanks, nascar cars have blanks, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh okay, good to know. But how can I myself determine if my current rotors need to be replaced?
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Re: (8YourV8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8YourV8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i replaced my rotors with auto zone $28 specials and my car had like a 89456378945678456 foot 70-0 braking distance.
then replaced those later on with a Power Slot oversized kit and my car stops better than my bosses V70-R (roughly 200 whp) which has like 13" dual piston calipers and AWD. best upgrade I've ever done to my car, ever... and they NEVER rust.
edit: EBC pads on both setups</TD></TR></TABLE>
Many ITR track junkies have run Autozone blanks for years and numerous track events with good results. The difference of the stopping distance you noticed was due to the bigger rotor set up, not because it was slotted or drilled. If you had gone with a Legend/ITR braking system, you'd have more braking power than you will ever need (I'm sure the BBK you've got works, too). Oh, and rust has zero affect in your braking.
For street pads, I will always stick with Axxis Ult's. Just gotta clean the wheels more or paint them flat black.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razr2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh okay, good to know. But how can I myself determine if my current rotors need to be replaced?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can measure it and see if it's got sufficient metal on there (not sure on the specs), but for ~$60, might as well just put some new ones on there. Then you won't have to worry about it for a loooong time.
Modified by p nut at 2:36 PM 12/4/2007
then replaced those later on with a Power Slot oversized kit and my car stops better than my bosses V70-R (roughly 200 whp) which has like 13" dual piston calipers and AWD. best upgrade I've ever done to my car, ever... and they NEVER rust.
edit: EBC pads on both setups</TD></TR></TABLE>
Many ITR track junkies have run Autozone blanks for years and numerous track events with good results. The difference of the stopping distance you noticed was due to the bigger rotor set up, not because it was slotted or drilled. If you had gone with a Legend/ITR braking system, you'd have more braking power than you will ever need (I'm sure the BBK you've got works, too). Oh, and rust has zero affect in your braking.
For street pads, I will always stick with Axxis Ult's. Just gotta clean the wheels more or paint them flat black.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razr2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh okay, good to know. But how can I myself determine if my current rotors need to be replaced?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can measure it and see if it's got sufficient metal on there (not sure on the specs), but for ~$60, might as well just put some new ones on there. Then you won't have to worry about it for a loooong time.
Modified by p nut at 2:36 PM 12/4/2007
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Re: (p nut)
Yes, if you can't remember the last time they've been replaced, or it's been at least a few years, it won't hurt to replace them. It will also be peace of mind and a variable eliminated if you have any future problems.
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