d15bvteco

i have a jdm d15b-vtec spec engine from japan and i need help. The ECU is american and i think that is not recieving the right info from the engine. WHen i turn it on it has a really rough idle, up and down from 1500 to 2000, it goes down and up down and up, but after half hour i turn the ace which does not work becuase of compressor but cools a little bit the reving problem goes away. The temperature starts from hot to cold, instead of cold to hot and the gas signal is not working so it does not show me how much gas i have and when i its start gives me the signal that it has no gas i get it to the gas station and put gas on it but it only lets me put 9.70 gallons of gas, i guess there is something wrong with it. I need help it also has 8.5-10 mph of what im really going or driving. can anyone help

B18C5-EH2

Sounds like a clusterfuck of a mess bro, honestly.

I think you need to take it to a reputable Honda repair shop and let them sort it out.

wiZCo

What ECU are you using?

What vehicle did this go into? Did you do any wiring changes?

You left out a ton of info.

Probot

it almost sounds like certain things were wired backwards if thats even possible - yea, dude definitely take it to a shop that has a good reputation..explain to them the problems you've experienced and have them do their own diagnostic as well...hope you get it sorted out dude

raphael

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15bvteco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a jdm d15b-vtec spec engine from japan and i need help. The ECU is american and i think that is not recieving the right info from the engine. WHen i turn it on it has a really rough idle, up and down from 1500 to 2000, it goes down and up down and up, but after half hour i turn the ace which does not work becuase of compressor but cools a little bit the reving problem goes away. The temperature starts from hot to cold, instead of cold to hot and the gas signal is not working so it does not show me how much gas i have and when i its start gives me the signal that it has no gas i get it to the gas station and put gas on it but it only lets me put 9.70 gallons of gas, i guess there is something wrong with it. I need help it also has 8.5-10 mph of what im really going or driving. can anyone help</TD></TR></TABLE>quick question. what car is it in?

d15bvteco

the car is a civic coupe 1994 ex but with cx engine, im using stock ecu(american ECU) somepeople have told me that i should put the po8 ob1 or p28 ecu and see what happens, the owner that had it before me took it to mechanics and he saids that the ecu could not be reading some partial info from the engine since is a japanese engine and american ecu. all the wires are fine everything is connected where is suppose to be, the engine runs strong really strong, i hit on first gear 35mph and 2 gear i hit 70mph, it has no governor no limiting rev.

d15bvteco

i dont think they did the swap right at all

CDizzle_996

Take it to a shop before you blow **** up

raphael

seems like u have a slight electrical problem. id say bring it to a mechanic(electrician) or check everything for yourself and troubleshoot. its the only way to learn kid. everytime ive had trouble with my car ive troubleshooted everything myself even though i went to school for electrical and mechanics

d15bvteco

thanks i will check it up myself tomorrow.

raphael

doesnt seem like theres to much complication since the motor does run.

ejoner

First you say you have a jdm d15b and then you say the car is a ex with a cx motor? So which one is it? If its the jdm d15b then use the usdm p28 ecu. If the car has a cx motor then I cant help you as I know nothing about that motor. Did you have to modify any of the wiring? If it was a ex chassis with d15b nothing would have to be modified. How was the car before the swap? Is there a check engine light? Is interior portion of the harness cut/modified?

bonestock91

im using the p2p ecu for my d15b vtec swap, runs like a charm.

adobospoon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15bvteco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a jdm d15b-vtec spec engine from japan and i need help. The ECU is american and i think that is not recieving the right info from the engine. WHen i turn it on it has a really rough idle, up and down from 1500 to 2000, it goes down and up down and up, but after half hour i turn the ace which does not work becuase of compressor but cools a little bit the reving problem goes away. The temperature starts from hot to cold, instead of cold to hot and the gas signal is not working so it does not show me how much gas i have and when i its start gives me the signal that it has no gas i get it to the gas station and put gas on it but it only lets me put 9.70 gallons of gas, i guess there is something wrong with it. I need help it also has 8.5-10 mph of what im really going or driving. can anyone help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a p28 quick. That's what im running on. Seems to me the ecu is the problem.

d15bvteco

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First you say you have a jdm d15b and then you say the car is a ex with a cx motor? So which one is it? If its the jdm d15b then use the usdm p28 ecu. If the car has a cx motor then I cant help you as I know nothing about that motor. Did you have to modify any of the wiring? If it was a ex chassis with d15b nothing would have to be modified. How was the car before the swap? Is there a check engine light? Is interior portion of the harness cut/modified? </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, It's a JDM D15B Vtec single cam in my honda civic coupe ex 1994 running with the stock ecu that came with the original engine that it had before. The owner that i purchased the car from hooked up a gsr ecu to it and the rough idle went away but then it would redline the revs to fast, 50mph he would be on 5th gear, so he took off the ecu and put back the stock ecu from the original engine. He has taking it to mechanics and all they tell him is that the ecu might not be reading the engine well enough causing it to have rough idle. but if it was the ecu why he never changed it? so i dont think it might be the ecu only. any help???/

d15bvteco

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt seem like theres to much complication since the motor does run. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes the motor runs good, pretty strong too despite the hard rev, i will take a video when it cools off and ill posted on youtube so u guys can see more of what im talking about and hear what the engine does when i turn on the ace and when i dont. my honda http://litoflow.deviantart.com...23752

MonkeyMagic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a clusterfuck of a mess bro, honestly.

I think you need to take it to a reputable Honda repair shop and let them sort it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd, i try to help everybody

but the OP has so many seperate problems going at once it'd require some special time between me and his car only.

all i can say is its definately in the wiring (without knowing what ecu/program and wetther its good or not)

but if you can't fix it yourself.. i doubt we'll be able to help over the web. you need first hand help

JDM_SOHC

sounds like a bad CTS and FITV.....

Try cleaning you Fast Idle Thermal Valve before you replace it..

You can find out how to do that by clicking herehttps://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1564019

For the Coolant Temp Sensor, you might be better off taking some OHM readings, I believe it's 1000ohms at 100 degrees... Dont quote me on that but its a start, hope i helped...

d15bvteco

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bad CTS and FITV.....

Try cleaning you Fast Idle Thermal Valve before you replace it..

For the Coolant Temp Sensor, you might be better off taking some OHM readings, I believe it's 1000ohms at 100 degrees... Dont quote me on that but its a start, hope i helped... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Some one told me about the thermal valve before i havent cleaned yet. i will though tomorrow or so, i was at the shop today on pioneer automotive and my body there that fixed my last car that i had gave me some wires for my distributor cab becuase the ones that i had weren't the right ones so they were not fitting right, they wouldnt even snap or plug in so he gave me three of them im still missing #4(which im planning to get in a junkjard or pull it) but what i did is i change the cables and i mess up two of them so i was running on 2cylinders only and the timing on the engine got mixed but the rough idle went away and it stood on 900-1000rpm on idle, of course i change them back where they suppose to go and the rough idle came back again, so its a timing issue that i have on the engine and my mechanic will be fixing it tomorrow. in case it does not get fixed i will deffinitely try cleaning the fast idle thermal valve and see what happens.

The oil leak that i have is because there is a black ring inside of the distributor cab that is bad and i have to change it, doind so it should not leak oil over my engine.
I found out that my car was overheating due to that the ac fan was the only one working and the radiator was not, its wear out so ill have all that fixed by tomorrow hopefully. i cant wait to get it fix becuase gas is going up and my honda needs to be feel up every three days(sucks)

d15bvteco

still need help that was not the problem, my mechanic check the timing on the engine and is not it, tomorrow i will clean the idle thermal control valve to see if its that, any other ideas?

JDM_SOHC

bro if i were you id just got get new plugs an wires... Advance auto has some nice 8mm wires "i got red to match my secondary engine color" but their constructed really good.. And get some NGK's while ur there.... I had a bitch of a time tryna find that O ring that goes on distributor so what I did was just took it off and went to plumbing store an matched it with an O ring the same diameter, worked fine for me... Once you've done those things let me know and ill walk you through another process to try and tell if its ur FITV.... Its basic but we dont wanna step on our own feet here, 1 step at a time...

d15bvteco

well i got red ngks spark cables already and those are the one that dont fit right, they wont click when u push them all the way in. My D15b when i turn it on, the rough idle starts up and down but when it warms up for like 5-15minutes i turn on the ac which dont even work the rough idle goes away and the rpms stay at 1500 steady, any clue what it might be. I will be getting the wires tomorrow to make sure. About the O ring, did u check on any junk yard? or any reputable honda dealer???? to see if they had it ???

galaxy2000

juss throw it away an get anothir d series at da local yard sale lolz

d15bvteco

perhaps no/ i fixed it today at 9pm, spent the whole night myself trying to fix it, the problem was my idle control valve, i clean it up real good and it did nothing to it, i put it back and nothing happen. So what i did was, when u take the intake off the are two wholes right infront of the throttle body or what ever its call, i cover the two holes which correspond to the iddle control valve and intake manifold and the reving problem went away, drop down to 750-900rpms, amazing ! my car almost doesnt sound exepct when u push the gas lol . IM really happy because i one guy told me to do so and now it doesn sound and it will not required me to put gas every three day :D. So i plastic some real hard box paper with tape and cover the wholes temporarely untill i can get it fix or weld those two wholes shut. It might be the intake manifold but its new same with the idle control valve but oh well i fixed it for now, my car wont shake no more jeje, thats good, thanks everybody that try to help me and for those who did, thanks a lot, now i just need to get a O ring for the oil that is leaking through the distributor cab.

thanks to all again.

Bejita

This is the easiest JDM swap you can do....You have to be a complete idiot to screw it up. You shouldnt have been a cheap *** and bought the P08 ECU you need to make it run right. You're also supposed to use your cars wiring harness. Go here and do your research next time. http://www.d-series.org/forums...32597