italian_virus

Whats up guys, im here to ask all of you for your advice & experience(s).
I have decided to start looking in the market for a B18C1 to put in my 95 honda civic couple.

Now im located in the GTA & since i know everyone on this site is from around the country & have spent countless hours like myself on mods/tunes/ & just plain enjoying working on your car, i would like to know which route would be best suited for me.


Like i said i am looking for a B18C1 (Keep in mind, once i get this motor.. it will be bored out and i will put new pistons/rods/rings. building it for BOOST)

so i have two choices..

either pay the $4000 and get the full swap with everything such as

-Engine
-Distributor
-ECU
-LSD Transmission
-Wiring Harness
-Mounts
-Drive shafts
-Shift linkages

this is from Teknotik located in the GTA
http://www.teknotik.com/product_sect...disp.php?id=39


OR

Should i buy the motor in pieces and build it up
the block
the header
tranny
etc etc

i know alot including myself have invested alot of time and money, so i was curious to know what would be the best decision from your point of view(s).

Thanks in advance.

mcki0068

I would personally say buying the full swap instead of sourcing out each seperate component. There are upsides and downsides to each. You might be able to find a decent quality swap very quickly, or you may be able to find much nicer quality parts indivudually that may take more time and money. Thats just my 0.02...

Good luck with the build and the sourcing. Get anti-theft system/locknuts once its on the road cause cars are stolen in the GTA all the time

B serious

iTrader: (1)

What's the point of buying a more expensive GSR block when you're just going to rebuild it for boost anyway?

Buy a LS block. Save money. The LS block is a larger displacement block anyway. More torque. You'll probably end up with similar horsepower numbers.

$4k for a GSR swap is a bit much.

www.n1concepts.com had some decent prices back a while ago.
www.hmotorsonline.com has some real nice, clean swaps.

You should really learn to say good bye to all your money before going through with this build. You're going to need a lot of auxilary parts to complete it on top of the costs of actually buying the engine/building it.

newtron63h

to answer your question id go with the kit. makes your life so much simpler. and probably in the long run cheaper.

i know you said you want a B18 specifically. but another option you might not have thought about and might be something to consider............getting a B16 and a good stroker kit(making the B16 a 1.8L) and going from there. youll have a fully balanced and forged bottom end, lower compression pistons and still be at about the same price range as the b18 kit alone.

this is an example rotating kit, eagle makes very good quality stuff. the only thing left would be getting it to a machine shop and having it balanced. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-81012815/

heres the numbers so you can compare the engines.

B18:
Bore 81mm 3.1889in
Stroke 87.2mm 3.433in
Displacement 1797cc 109.67c.i.
piston speed at 9000rpm 4943 fps

Stroked B16:
Bore 81.5mm 3.209in
Stroke 84.683mm 3.334in
Displacement 1766cc 107.79c.i.
piston speed at5 9000rpm 4800fps

lower piston speed is better.........less stress on the rods.
very similar sizes, which should mean very similar output, but this is just some info for you to consider. the big advantage the B18 has over the B16 is stroke which equals torque......with this kit you get stroke too. not trying to tell you what to do, just giving you more information so you can make the better decision for your needs.

thumper64

The GSR has a stronger block and is designed to take more abuse. It has a better rod to stroke ratio, a girdle, reinforcing webs, I think the bearings are wider or something also.

You can find a GSR block and crank for under $400 if you look around. When it was all said and done, I'm paying $200 for my block I still have pistons to sell off from.

newtron63h

i understand the GSR is stronger, but unless we are talking 20psi or something like that the B16 is PLENTY strong for a street car. the rod/stroke ratio is something else to think about but again......in a street car, under mostly easy driving conditions its not too big a concern. and with all forged bottom end, it should be g2g.

THC07

4k? *** a B series. Go big or go home.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Excellent information. Do you write for a magazine or a book?

Lasky

GSR rod bearings are skinnier than B16 rod bearings.. when people rebuild b16's they use gsr rod bearings so theres less friction and you can get some more HP out of the build

Id go with the LS block then buy a B16 head if your going to rebuild anyways.. you could probably get both for somewhere between $800-$1000 depending on condition that would leave you with 3000-3200 to build.. just my opinion

I bought a JDM b16 off hmotors 2 years ago for 2600 shipped and if i had to go back i would buy a used LS block, put a B16 head on it and build it - the swap was super clean and i havent had any problems with it just building a motor would yield better numbers for same price

THC07

Norcals Honda Tuner, how'd you know?

lol, B serious!


Seriously though. The only excuse for going B series is budget, oh but wait, B series cost more then most H F series.

Im sorry, i know many people love B series, to each his own. maybe I shouldnt have said anything.
I just dont see why anyone would want a B series.


My apologies.


In anycase, if you are going B series, do it cheap. like said LS block etc etc. that was good advice

newtron63h

i prefer to get everything in a nice neat package, dont have to think about anything fitting, no alignment, just out with the old in with the new. yes youll pay more, but i just did a swap in a 95 from D15b(threw a rod) to a d15b7(acquired cheap) and i had to modify the distributor to make it fit......maybe it wasnt the right distributor. but i had plenty of ppl tell me that everything from the B would fit on the B7.

i know TONS of ppl have done all kinds of different B swap configurations but i just have grown untrusting of alot of peoples word. i like simplicity, and my opinion is that a B16 swap is the simplest option, combined with a stroker kit.............then turboed, it will be close enough to a B18t that you wouldnt really be able to tell the difference. and comparing swap kits to each other..................the B16 is cheaper.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You're not making a whole lot of sense.

Compared to a B series swap, the H series is cheaper and so is the F. The simplification of installation equalizes a lot of the costs, though. Especially if you want everything to work (PS, AC, CC, etc).

There are downsides to using H and F motors. You HAVE to use polyurethane mounts. You have to custom fab up PS and AC lines. You may have to hybrid parts together. The shifter linkage has to be fabbed up/modified/parts have to be gathered. Tuning options are not as vast as the B series options. Axle life (although, I think that one's been adressed better lately). Space in the engine bay. etc. etc. etc.

It takes a certain level of expertise or involvement to do the H swap. The OP seems like he's looking for slimplicity. The fact that he's willing to pay around $4k for a C1 swap shows that he's still a little green.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30009 would show that the complete swap is only $2900.

Figure an extra like...$100-200 for all other misc. B.S. that you may need for the swap.

Besides that, you can pretty much throw the B series swap into the engine bay and it will bolt itself in. It's that easy.

Getting the H series swap and all involved components may put you over the $3k mark...especially if you don't know what you're doing.

38genesis

piece of advice and experience, whatever you do, never cheap out coz it will cost you @ the end. i have a b18c1 11.5cr and 85mm overbore (161ft.lb. on wheels). just future reference.

boxeocampeon

i would buy it in pieces so you dont have OEM and aftermarket parts. its a waste of money

THC07

[QUOTE=B serious;40384373]
Compared to a B series swap, the H series is cheaper and so is the F. The simplification of installation equalizes a lot of the costs, though. Especially if you want everything to work (PS, AC, CC, etc).

There are downsides to using H and F motors. You HAVE to use polyurethane mounts. You have to custom fab up PS and AC lines. You may have to hybrid parts together. The shifter linkage has to be fabbed up/modified/parts have to be gathered. Tuning options are not as vast as the B series options. Axle life (although, I think that one's been adressed better lately). Space in the engine bay. etc. etc. etc.

QUOTE]

Agreed! being a litte green would def make simplicity an important factor. I did however keep my PS with my h22a4 and the h23v swap. its a tight fit, but it is retained.
the only thing i did not fab was the bracket for AC. so no ac, but thats all.

I paid 800 for a H22a4 complete clip from a insurance company. I also had to wait about a year to find that deal.
all said and done... I have about 2k in my car and shes better get me into the 11's on the 31st. its a slow track so maybe low 12's. on the bottle of course.

Pothole987

4k for a swap...?thats alot i can get k's for that. look around but personally i'd buy everything seperately you can build it alot cheaper

newtron63h

b serious, whats not making sense? ill try to clarify