teamrpm2

well today i got a offer from a friend he recently crashed and his car flip over nothing happen to the front lets just say its convertible. hes selling me a b20b for 1200 with gsr tranny lets just say the whole swap he had in his DC2.but i wana know does anything happen wen the car is flip to the engine like i said it has no damage towards the engine just wana know like some things tht may have happen????

also have another question he had this swap in a integra ls can i use his engine wiring harness and intermediate shaft and drive shaft and wat are good axles i can buy this is all goin in a 99 honda civic si

ust wanted to make sure it was fine cuz it sounded fine everything looks perfect just for the blue smoke but u suggest doin a valve adjustment like he said

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well today i got a offer from a friend he recently crashed and his car flip over nothing happen to the front lets just say its convertible. hes selling me a b20b for 1200 with gsr tranny lets just say the whole swap he had in his DC2.but i wana know does anything happen wen the car is flip to the engine like i said it has no damage towards the engine just wana know like some things tht may have happen????

also have another question he had this swap in a integra ls can i use his engine wiring harness and intermediate shaft and drive shaft and wat are good axles i can buy this is all goin in a 99 honda civic si

ust wanted to make sure it was fine cuz it sounded fine everything looks perfect just for the blue smoke but u suggest doin a valve adjustment like he said
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It will bolt in. You use your EM1 harness. It comes out of the car completely...it's very nifty. Is this a B20 VTEC setup? If not, the car probably will be as slow or slower than the B16A that's currently in the car. Or you could put your B16A head on it....and put some work into it to make it fast. It probably wont be reliable with a VTEC head on it, however (RPMs make it break).

You can use the integra axles, etc. But you could also use your Si axles. The Si trans will be a much better fit for the B20 if you keep it NA. The Si has shorter gearing.

Valve adjustment will not cure blue smoke. If there's blue smoke, it could just be residual oil from when the motor was upside down or it could mean bad rings or bad valve seals. Valve seals aren't expensive. A shop around here charges $200 for parts and labor.

B20 long blocks are like $650 from most motor retailers, IIRC. Password JDM was even running a "buy 2 B20s for $999" sale at one point. $1200 is a rip off. If your Si is complete, you only need the B20 longblock and maybe an ECU. An LS ECU will work just fine if you dont have a VTEC head on it. You dont need a trans, intake mani, accesories, axles, linkage, mounts, etc. etc. Use all your B16/Si stuff.

Deetz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is this a B20 VTEC setup? If not, the car probably will be as slow or slower than the B16A that's currently in the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, i wouldn't say that, it depends on what version of B20 it is. I have a 2000 model jdm spec B20B (same as B20Z usdm version) in my 96 civic, it will blow the doors off a B16A model, the difference is night and day.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh, i wouldn't say that, it depends on what version of B20 it is. I have a 2000 model jdm spec B20B (same as B20Z usdm version) in my 96 civic, it will blow the doors off a B16A model, the difference is night and day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

20-30 less HP and 25 more lbs of torque. I didn't figure the difference would be THAT much. I figured it'd be a wash. Have you tracked it or raced a 99-00 Si or a B16'd coupe?

Is yours a coupe?

Deetz

^^ mines a 96 cx hatch running a toda flywheel and edelbrock header. I have driven many Si coupes which are certainly a lot of fun, but there is no comparison for performance, the B20Z has better cams and much better and higher redline than the older version B20B. In my car, at any speed in 1st i can hit the gas and start smoking the front tires and into second gear, it has way more in your face power than a b16A. I just finished the swap only a couple of weeks ago, so i haven't had the opportunity to hit the track yet. I also have an rsx, i can tell you the civic has no problem out accelerating it as well.

teamrpm2

well my car was stolen so im rebuilding it im goin b20vtec later on but i need a car so im just gonna use the b20b for now until i get the rest of the money...and the axles he has i think are broken from the accident so have to buy new ones i dnt have the engine wiring harness thts why i wanted to know if u could use the integra harness....and hes selling it to me with a gsr tranny which i think is pretty good for a NA setup

like i said em1 is a shell rite now and no engine no wiring harness ecu nothing....hes sellin me everything thts why he wants 1200 is radiator,headers,the engine drive shaft intermediate shaft shift linkage etc but this is a dc4 i think ls so i wanna know if all this just bolts into mines

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ mines a 96 cx hatch running a toda flywheel and edelbrock header. I have driven many Si coupes which are certainly a lot of fun, but there is no comparison for performance, the B20Z has better cams and much better and higher redline than the older version B20B. In my car, at any speed in 1st i can hit the gas and start smoking the front tires and into second gear, it has way more in your face power than a b16A. I just finished the swap only a couple of weeks ago, so i haven't had the opportunity to hit the track yet. I also have an rsx, i can tell you the civic has no problem out accelerating it as well.

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lol well yeah...but I'm talking coupe vs. coupe hatch vs. hatch. Your hatch with a B20 would most definately be faster than a EM1 with a B16A. But I think if it were a car of the same chassis, the B16A would be slightly faster. But it's all bench racing till someone who actually did it will input their claim.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my car was stolen so im rebuilding it im goin b20vtec later on but i need a car so im just gonna use the b20b for now until i get the rest of the money...and the axles he has i think are broken from the accident so have to buy new ones i dnt have the engine wiring harness thts why i wanted to know if u could use the integra harness....and hes selling it to me with a gsr tranny which i think is pretty good for a NA setup

like i said em1 is a shell rite now and no engine no wiring harness ecu nothing....hes sellin me everything thts why he wants 1200 is radiator,headers,the engine drive shaft intermediate shaft shift linkage etc but this is a dc4 i think ls so i wanna know if all this just bolts into mines</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will bolt in...but you need the EM1 drivers upper mount and T bracket. You also need an EM1 wiring harness. I dont know what the distrubutor on the B20 looks like (big plug, small plug)...but you have to have either the correct corresponding harness or a conversion harness. You can use an EX harness as well.

I guess he's selling it to you for a decent price for all you get. Try to do a compression test to make sure the rings are still good. Blue smoke could be simple as valve seals or it could be rings which requires a rebuild. In that case..just buy a good shortblock and start from there. It's cheaper, and you get a factory assembled motor.

.Grimace

yea like b serious said that blue smoke is kind of sketchy. could be a big problem. i would try to talk him down on price. if that motor was kept running for a bit while the car was upside down it could have some oil starvation problems.

teamrpm2

yeah i just need to buy mounts and axles thts it...but yeah thts wat i wanted to know if i could use the engine harness he has but i guess not rite...i think is a big plug not sure.....

yea the compression test and all tht u can do them urself can u....yea it just smoke up blue alittle and it sounded good just a little like rattling noise but he said those were his broken axles hopefully is not the rings its a really good engine he has had it for awhile now and runs strong seen him race

and its all stock he just has headers and intake and aem fuel rail and pressure regulator

any brand or place the sell decent priced mounts and axles looked at hasport but very expensive and i need all my mounts they took the rear the side driver mount and passenger side

teamrpm2

yea i agree want to do a compression test like b serious said and yeah ima try to get it for 1000 or 900 atleast but ima let him know i wanna do the compression test and all tht first wat else do u suggest

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i just need to buy mounts and axles thts it...but yeah thts wat i wanted to know if i could use the engine harness he has but i guess not rite...i think is a big plug not sure.....

yea the compression test and all tht u can do them urself can u....yea it just smoke up blue alittle and it sounded good just a little like rattling noise but he said those were his broken axles hopefully is not the rings its a really good engine he has had it for awhile now and runs strong seen him race

and its all stock he just has headers and intake and aem fuel rail and pressure regulator

any brand or place the sell decent priced mounts and axles looked at hasport but very expensive and i need all my mounts they took the rear the side driver mount and passenger side</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buy OEM. Go to a junkyard. You can use any 96-00 driver's upper mount, and lower rear mount that attatches to the T bracket. You can also use any 96-00 AC and small lower trans bracket mounts. You may also need the EM1 (or any 92-00 B16A/B) 2 prong driver's upper mounting bracket. If the B20 allready has the 2 prong bracket, no worries. Usually, integras use the 3 prong driver's upper bracket, though.


The rear T bracket for an Si is like $60 new, IIRC. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com might have the mounts for a decent price. Hasport is expensive, but it's well engineered. You can also try innovative, or some other REPUTABLE company for mounts if you dont mind polyurethane. Check ebay for better than MSRP prices.

Come to think of it, besides the driver's upper mount and bracket, and the rear T bracket, you should be able to use everything from a DC.

Your insurance company isn't paying you out for your losses on your EM1?

teamrpm2

unfortunately not wen i bought the engine the papers showed it salvaged so wen i went to the insurance company thts wat i showed so i only got liability then i got the pink slip a couple weeks later clean title i guess i got carried away and i never went to change it to full cover im only sixteen it took me along time to earn tht money to buy it and me and ma dad just got carried away and we never did so it got stolen and there was nothing we could do afta tht.....thanks for all ur help im only sixteen but i know alot about engines and i kinda figured either oil got in the combustion chambers or the rings are screwed but just wanted to make sure ima try to look into those mounts and axles wana buy some for decent price i only work minimun wage and i get pay every 2 weeks sux lol

teamrpm2

because the engine was running well before the flip unless wen it flipped over it messed up the piston rings which im not sure if tht could have mess them up but im pretty sure its just residue oil or i hope its just the valve seals so if i do a compression test and its fine tht means it can be the valve seals how do u check if its tht

botlebruiser

Yea you definetly need an em1 harness. The reason is a dc/eg harness stops at the firewall. There is a plug at the firewall and thats where it connects to your ecu harness and part of the chasis harness. An em1 harness is all one piece. There is no plug at the firewall, only a hole where the ecu plugs go through the firewall and thats where your ecu plugs in. I would definetly go stock on the mounts for a stock b20. There will not be much gain going aftermarket, not to mention your whole car will vibrate.

packman5280

i have a bunch of brackets from a b16, may be able to help if you can tell me exactly what you need. would definitely be cheaper than new. no harness though.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because the engine was running well before the flip unless wen it flipped over it messed up the piston rings which im not sure if tht could have mess them up but im pretty sure its just residue oil or i hope its just the valve seals so if i do a compression test and its fine tht means it can be the valve seals how do u check if its tht</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it continually burns oil (more than just residual from flipping over), check the compression. If the compression checks out, it's almost surely the valve seals.

bad valve seals do not affect compression, but can still let oil into the combustion chamber when the valve opens.

teamrpm2

drivers upper mount,the lower rear mount that attaches to the t bracket i also need the T bracket,i need the AC and small lower transmission bracket and the 2 prong upper drivers mounting bracket and axles too

teamrpm2

so wat u all about 1200 with everything 1998 b20b with like 70k with everyhthing gsr tranny just needs throw out bearing,headers,aftermarket fule rail and fuel pressure regulator,radiator,ecu,intake manifold a complete swap lets say he would have gave me mounts and harness but since they dont fit u think its a good price.

teamrpm2

teamrpm2

yea eny answers

teamrpm2

come on any one has sum of these for sell drivers upper mount,the lower rear mount that attaches to the t bracket i also need the T bracket,i need the AC and small lower transmission bracket and the 2 prong upper drivers mounting bracket and axles too

teamrpm2

no one is on honda tech no more or wat

thehatchninja

use your B16 trans, it will be faster than the GSR trans.

teamrpm2

dnt have one my car was recently stolen rebuilding now bought the b20b with a gsr tranny......so i bought the engine and the guy said he had 6 months warranty is about to expire so he said if i wanted to return tht and got another with the company but they said is to late to redue the warranty wat should i do get one from the company tht may come with a problem or just keep the one he sold me its stock and he used dry shot of nitrous a couple times and it blew out blue smoke but he said it did tht because he hadnt turn it on since the accident and there was residue oil dont know wat to do any opinions

Dasfinc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dnt have one my car was recently stolen rebuilding now bought the b20b with a gsr tranny......so i bought the engine and the guy said he had 6 months warranty is about to expire so he said if i wanted to return tht and got another with the company but they said is to late to redue the warranty wat should i do get one from the company tht may come with a problem or just keep the one he sold me its stock and he used dry shot of nitrous a couple times and it blew out blue smoke but he said it did tht because he hadnt turn it on since the accident and there was residue oil dont know wat to do any opinions</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buddy, With all due respect, You're 16, and have serious spelling issues online here to the point where it is almost impossible to understand, which I'm sure is a big reason why no one is giving you many answers, BECAUSE THEY DON'T WANNA READ IT.

NOT ONLY THAT, but people were telling you to not buy that motor, and that you can get it cheaper, elsewhere, and in better shape, and you ignored them, now you bought someone else's problem, Congrats.

Stop modifying your car until you have had your license for more than a year, and your god damned car is insured.