I can't rev my em1 to redline... !?
12-05-2007, 06:20 PM
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I can't rev my em1 to redline... !?
I can't redline my 99 em1 since the day I bought it
today I tested drive it again and found out it will cut off at 7.5k
the tach neddle kinda stop and stuck, bounce slightly around the 7.5k rpm
that means a fuel cut off , right ?
my car is fully warmed up when I drove it
so wt will be the problem
I used to own a 00 ex and it did the same
only difference is the tach needle get to redline first then bounce or cut off around the redzone
some said my tach might be off but the idle rpm looks normal, below 10k above 500
"If there is no load on your car, then it is bad to just redline it. Honda knows that, so for people like you, they put in a third revlimiter then when you are driving you have 2 other rev limiters, hot and cold. This is again for people that like to run the **** out of their cars without letting the oil get moving in the system. Then hot, that is your normal 6800 revlimit. "
AND it the above statement true ? or it's just one rev limiter ?
one more question......
how can u guy feel vtec kicks in ? I can only hear my intake
just wanna find out when does it exactly kicks in
thanks so much
today I tested drive it again and found out it will cut off at 7.5k
the tach neddle kinda stop and stuck, bounce slightly around the 7.5k rpm
that means a fuel cut off , right ?
my car is fully warmed up when I drove it
so wt will be the problem
I used to own a 00 ex and it did the same
only difference is the tach needle get to redline first then bounce or cut off around the redzone
some said my tach might be off but the idle rpm looks normal, below 10k above 500
"If there is no load on your car, then it is bad to just redline it. Honda knows that, so for people like you, they put in a third revlimiter then when you are driving you have 2 other rev limiters, hot and cold. This is again for people that like to run the **** out of their cars without letting the oil get moving in the system. Then hot, that is your normal 6800 revlimit. "
AND it the above statement true ? or it's just one rev limiter ?
one more question......
how can u guy feel vtec kicks in ? I can only hear my intake
just wanna find out when does it exactly kicks in
thanks so much
12-05-2007, 06:30 PM
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (TXGrunt)
you have an em1 and you cant hear vtec with an intake???
Ive got a b16 in my car and when it hits vtec, you and everyone in your vicinity is definitely aware of it. Your car should redline at 8, and you can take it to 8 with no problems, hell i take mine to 9 on a semi-daily basis.
Sounds like you got the wrong ecu. prolly running a sohc ecu or something. thats how mine ran before i had money for hondata i was running a stock p28.
Ive got a b16 in my car and when it hits vtec, you and everyone in your vicinity is definitely aware of it. Your car should redline at 8, and you can take it to 8 with no problems, hell i take mine to 9 on a semi-daily basis.
Sounds like you got the wrong ecu. prolly running a sohc ecu or something. thats how mine ran before i had money for hondata i was running a stock p28.
12-05-2007, 06:58 PM
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (joe.wong321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"If there is no load on your car, then it is bad to just redline it. Honda knows that, so for people like you, they put in a third revlimiter then when you are driving you have 2 other rev limiters, hot and cold. This is again for people that like to run the **** out of their cars without letting the oil get moving in the system. Then hot, that is your normal 6800 revlimit. "
AND it the above statement true ? or it's just one rev limiter ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
False on all accounts.
Oil starts moving in the motor almost as soon as you start it. If it didn't you wouldn't have a motor. You'd have a bunch of metal welded together inside of another block of metal.
I dont believe the B16A has a shorter rev limit for when it's cold. I think it still goes up to 8200 when cold, but definiately has no VTEC until the coolant is at operating temp. (with a stock ECU)
6800 is not a regular rev limit for even a single cam VTEC motor.
B16A redline should be around 8200-8500 on the tach. Some tachs are off by a bit.
You can rev your car to redline without moving. You shouldn't do it. But you can.
If you have an intake, when a B16A's VTEC hits, it will sound like the apocalypse. The car wont start actually moving until about 6500RPM, though.
Like someone else said, you probably have the wrong ECU. There was an Si for sale on auto trader with an EX motor, ECU, seats, cluster, etc etc. Did you buy that car? Does your car actually have a B16A?
"If there is no load on your car, then it is bad to just redline it. Honda knows that, so for people like you, they put in a third revlimiter then when you are driving you have 2 other rev limiters, hot and cold. This is again for people that like to run the **** out of their cars without letting the oil get moving in the system. Then hot, that is your normal 6800 revlimit. "
AND it the above statement true ? or it's just one rev limiter ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
False on all accounts.
Oil starts moving in the motor almost as soon as you start it. If it didn't you wouldn't have a motor. You'd have a bunch of metal welded together inside of another block of metal.
I dont believe the B16A has a shorter rev limit for when it's cold. I think it still goes up to 8200 when cold, but definiately has no VTEC until the coolant is at operating temp. (with a stock ECU)
6800 is not a regular rev limit for even a single cam VTEC motor.
B16A redline should be around 8200-8500 on the tach. Some tachs are off by a bit.
You can rev your car to redline without moving. You shouldn't do it. But you can.
If you have an intake, when a B16A's VTEC hits, it will sound like the apocalypse. The car wont start actually moving until about 6500RPM, though.
Like someone else said, you probably have the wrong ECU. There was an Si for sale on auto trader with an EX motor, ECU, seats, cluster, etc etc. Did you buy that car? Does your car actually have a B16A?
12-05-2007, 07:10 PM
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Re: (joe.wong321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it said "B16A2" on the motor !
that's for sure
but about the ECU
I don't know
Wt model of ECU do I supppose to have ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure what the model number for a USDM B16A OBD2 ECU is. <~~~ holy **** look at all those letters and numbers.
Look it up. I think the EX 96-00 ECU is labeled "P2P". If it says that on your ECU, you got the wrong one.
that's for sure
but about the ECU
I don't know
Wt model of ECU do I supppose to have ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure what the model number for a USDM B16A OBD2 ECU is. <~~~ holy **** look at all those letters and numbers.
Look it up. I think the EX 96-00 ECU is labeled "P2P". If it says that on your ECU, you got the wrong one.
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12-05-2007, 09:51 PM
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Re: (joe.wong321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy.......shoot
These are the pictures I just took
It's definately not P2T
What da heck is it ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
P28, denounced by the code in the middle.
The P28 is an OBD-I ECU made to manage the D16Z6 motor.
EDIT:
Its redline is 7200 RPM and you should NOT be running that on an em1 as the fuel maps are higher for the EM1 and you'll run lean and possibly blow your engine.
If you want to use that on your EM1 you need to have a socket soldered in, and a chip (either with an EM1 basemap or dyno tuned basemap) plugged into the socket.
Running a stock P28 is suicide for that motor.
These are the pictures I just took
It's definately not P2T
What da heck is it ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
P28, denounced by the code in the middle.
The P28 is an OBD-I ECU made to manage the D16Z6 motor.
EDIT:
Its redline is 7200 RPM and you should NOT be running that on an em1 as the fuel maps are higher for the EM1 and you'll run lean and possibly blow your engine.
If you want to use that on your EM1 you need to have a socket soldered in, and a chip (either with an EM1 basemap or dyno tuned basemap) plugged into the socket.
Running a stock P28 is suicide for that motor.
12-05-2007, 10:01 PM
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besides get a stock P2T ecu
will the harness still fit ?
Will get more performance and gas mileage from the stock
Then how come I heard ppl change obd2 to obd 1 to gain hp?
I'm so depressed now
BTW, how come I pass the smoke test
looks like a got the original harness still
Modified by joe.wong321 at 11:15 PM 12/5/2007
will the harness still fit ?
Will get more performance and gas mileage from the stock
Then how come I heard ppl change obd2 to obd 1 to gain hp?
I'm so depressed now
BTW, how come I pass the smoke test
looks like a got the original harness still
Modified by joe.wong321 at 11:15 PM 12/5/2007
12-05-2007, 10:13 PM
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Re: (joe.wong321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides get a stock P2T ecu
will the harness still fit ?
Will get more performance and gas mileage from the stock
Then how come I heard ppl change obd2 to obd 1 to gain hp?
I'm so depressed now
BTW, how come I pass the smoke test
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your gas mileage will get better because you're not leaning out and running the engine like **** all the time. Also, you won't blow your engine doing this (you can if you continue running the bank lean like that).
People don't change OBD-II to OBD-I to gain horsepower. They do it because all the good tuning stuff is OBD-I, so if you want a chipped ECU, or Hondata or something of that sort, to tune your car, that's all OBD-I, which is why a lot of people use an OBD-IIb to OBD-I conversion harness on their EM1's if they want them tuned.
So you get the stock P2T ECU, and it'll plug directly into your existing harness (If there's a conversion harness there you simply unplug it, it'll plug right into the stock harness), and everything will work, and you can run it to the redline no problem, safely. Your performance will go up, your car will run better.
As for the smoke? The '99/'00 Si (EM1) in stock form with a P2T ECU should pass any emissions test no problem.
PS: If you're running a stock P28 ECU that means that either somebody wired new plug ends onto it or put an OBD-IIB to OBD-I conversion harness on it. If they j ust put a harness on it, unplug it, no problem. If they re-wired the ends though...you gotta rewire OBD-IIB plug ends on there...and it's not hard, but it takes a hell of a long time.
will the harness still fit ?
Will get more performance and gas mileage from the stock
Then how come I heard ppl change obd2 to obd 1 to gain hp?
I'm so depressed now
BTW, how come I pass the smoke test
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your gas mileage will get better because you're not leaning out and running the engine like **** all the time. Also, you won't blow your engine doing this (you can if you continue running the bank lean like that).
People don't change OBD-II to OBD-I to gain horsepower. They do it because all the good tuning stuff is OBD-I, so if you want a chipped ECU, or Hondata or something of that sort, to tune your car, that's all OBD-I, which is why a lot of people use an OBD-IIb to OBD-I conversion harness on their EM1's if they want them tuned.
So you get the stock P2T ECU, and it'll plug directly into your existing harness (If there's a conversion harness there you simply unplug it, it'll plug right into the stock harness), and everything will work, and you can run it to the redline no problem, safely. Your performance will go up, your car will run better.
As for the smoke? The '99/'00 Si (EM1) in stock form with a P2T ECU should pass any emissions test no problem.
PS: If you're running a stock P28 ECU that means that either somebody wired new plug ends onto it or put an OBD-IIB to OBD-I conversion harness on it. If they j ust put a harness on it, unplug it, no problem. If they re-wired the ends though...you gotta rewire OBD-IIB plug ends on there...and it's not hard, but it takes a hell of a long time.
12-05-2007, 10:19 PM
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so how can I know my ecu now is chipped or not ?
It should be better to use the P2T since my mod should only be the short ram ?
Just get a P2T ecu....shouldn't be too expensive, right ?
How can I tell it's not chipped, as stock as possible?
Plus I'm saying I passed the smoke test w/ that P28, how come ?
Thank so much for the quick reply
I don't feel that bad now
U make it sounds not too bad...
thanks again
Modified by joe.wong321 at 12:51 AM 12/6/2007
It should be better to use the P2T since my mod should only be the short ram ?
Just get a P2T ecu....shouldn't be too expensive, right ?
How can I tell it's not chipped, as stock as possible?
Plus I'm saying I passed the smoke test w/ that P28, how come ?
Thank so much for the quick reply
I don't feel that bad now
U make it sounds not too bad...
thanks again
Modified by joe.wong321 at 12:51 AM 12/6/2007
12-05-2007, 10:24 PM
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Re: (joe.wong321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how can I know my ecu now is chipped or not ?
It should be better to use the P2T since my mod should only be the short ram ?
Just get a P2T ecu....shouldn't be too expensive, right ?
How can I tell it's not chipped, as stock as possible?
Plus I'm saying I passed the smoke test w/ that P28, how come ?
Thank so much for the quick reply
I don't feel that bad now
U make it sounds not too bad...
thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not bad at all - unless you keep running it with that ECU.
It would be a lot better to use the P2T ECU.
Only an OBD-I ECU can be chipped (not OBD-II, the P2T is OBD-II, the P28 is OBD-I), to check if it's chipped you gotta crack the case on the ECU open and see if there's a socket soldered in there with a chip in it. You can find pictures at pgmfi.org. I wouldn't deal with it - if it's not winding out to the redline of your B16A2 it's probably just the stock P28, if it had a B16 basemap loaded on it it would be able to rev to the redline.
So yes, just get a P2T ECU, plug it in, and have fun.
It should be better to use the P2T since my mod should only be the short ram ?
Just get a P2T ecu....shouldn't be too expensive, right ?
How can I tell it's not chipped, as stock as possible?
Plus I'm saying I passed the smoke test w/ that P28, how come ?
Thank so much for the quick reply
I don't feel that bad now
U make it sounds not too bad...
thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not bad at all - unless you keep running it with that ECU.
It would be a lot better to use the P2T ECU.
Only an OBD-I ECU can be chipped (not OBD-II, the P2T is OBD-II, the P28 is OBD-I), to check if it's chipped you gotta crack the case on the ECU open and see if there's a socket soldered in there with a chip in it. You can find pictures at pgmfi.org. I wouldn't deal with it - if it's not winding out to the redline of your B16A2 it's probably just the stock P28, if it had a B16 basemap loaded on it it would be able to rev to the redline.
So yes, just get a P2T ECU, plug it in, and have fun.
12-06-2007, 01:57 AM
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Re: (joe.wong321)
open the case.. open the side where all the chips are.. take pictures for me and i can tell you exactly what the ecu is, if its chipped, whats been added/ removed...
sucks your in spokane wa i just moved from there back to cali 4 months ago.. also my 95 civic ex passed the sniffer with no cat.. and some damn good tuning by me
.. only in washington.. i tried it in cali.. same tune everything.. no pass...
washington is the **** on smog.. in cali with that ecu you would automatically fail because they plug the obd2 scan port thing into the dyno machine
anyways.. 5 phillips screws open the top take some pics.. mostly around the back half of the board away form the plugs
sucks your in spokane wa i just moved from there back to cali 4 months ago.. also my 95 civic ex passed the sniffer with no cat.. and some damn good tuning by me
.. only in washington.. i tried it in cali.. same tune everything.. no pass...washington is the **** on smog.. in cali with that ecu you would automatically fail because they plug the obd2 scan port thing into the dyno machine
anyways.. 5 phillips screws open the top take some pics.. mostly around the back half of the board away form the plugs
12-06-2007, 07:47 AM
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your gas mileage will get better because you're not leaning out and running the engine like **** all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think so. The gas mileage with a P28 meant for a single cam (non chipped) will be better than with a P2T. If it's running lean, its automatically getting better gas mileage than if it was running rich if the situation is the same (throttle input, RPM, MAP reading, IAT reading, etc.). The definition of running lean is running with the ABSENCE of fuel.
As for your blowing up proposition:
The B series injectors are moderately larger than the D series. The ECU doesn't know this. What happens when you put bigger injectors on any stock ECU car? Imagine putting B series injectors on a D series with a stock P28 ecu. The injector pulse doesn't really adjust very well to the bigger injector, causing the car to run rich. BUT...since you have a D series computer inside of a B series car (Correct (bigger) injectors for the motor, but the ECU still thinks it's running a D series)...I think the fuel maps would still be a little on the lean side..but not enough to blow the engine up.
Just get the P2T ECU. There may be gains by going OBD1, but if you dont have supporting mods, a chipped P28 will just make the car run too rich for it's own good.
You may have passed a emissions "sniffer" type test...but you wouldn't pass an OBD2 connector test. The P28 simply doesn't offer up the information like an OBD2 ECU would. Nor does it have an input for a 2nd O2 sensor.
Get the P2T 99-00 SI ECU and be done with it. They can be had for pretty cheap. You could probably just trade someone your virgin P28 for it. People like to chip P28s...so they're desireable. You really can't do much with a P2T...except for run a 99-00 Si with it correctly.
You have a jumper harness connecting the P28 to your car. Unplug the harness. Plug in the P2T into your original harness. The harness is the thing with all the black and green wires that's about 6'' long. Dont tug on the wires. Aftermarket harnesses are delicate. You can sell that.
If you sell your P28 and the jumper harness, you'll probably make some money even after buying a used P2T. Just make sure it comes with some sort of working condition guarantee. Make sure it's a virgin P2T. Check EBAY. Check speed shops. Check REPUTABLE motor places like Hmotorsonline.com. Call them and see if they have any.
Your gas mileage will get better because you're not leaning out and running the engine like **** all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think so. The gas mileage with a P28 meant for a single cam (non chipped) will be better than with a P2T. If it's running lean, its automatically getting better gas mileage than if it was running rich if the situation is the same (throttle input, RPM, MAP reading, IAT reading, etc.). The definition of running lean is running with the ABSENCE of fuel.
As for your blowing up proposition:
The B series injectors are moderately larger than the D series. The ECU doesn't know this. What happens when you put bigger injectors on any stock ECU car? Imagine putting B series injectors on a D series with a stock P28 ecu. The injector pulse doesn't really adjust very well to the bigger injector, causing the car to run rich. BUT...since you have a D series computer inside of a B series car (Correct (bigger) injectors for the motor, but the ECU still thinks it's running a D series)...I think the fuel maps would still be a little on the lean side..but not enough to blow the engine up.
Just get the P2T ECU. There may be gains by going OBD1, but if you dont have supporting mods, a chipped P28 will just make the car run too rich for it's own good.
You may have passed a emissions "sniffer" type test...but you wouldn't pass an OBD2 connector test. The P28 simply doesn't offer up the information like an OBD2 ECU would. Nor does it have an input for a 2nd O2 sensor.
Get the P2T 99-00 SI ECU and be done with it. They can be had for pretty cheap. You could probably just trade someone your virgin P28 for it. People like to chip P28s...so they're desireable. You really can't do much with a P2T...except for run a 99-00 Si with it correctly.
You have a jumper harness connecting the P28 to your car. Unplug the harness. Plug in the P2T into your original harness. The harness is the thing with all the black and green wires that's about 6'' long. Dont tug on the wires. Aftermarket harnesses are delicate. You can sell that.
If you sell your P28 and the jumper harness, you'll probably make some money even after buying a used P2T. Just make sure it comes with some sort of working condition guarantee. Make sure it's a virgin P2T. Check EBAY. Check speed shops. Check REPUTABLE motor places like Hmotorsonline.com. Call them and see if they have any.
12-06-2007, 07:53 AM
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The definition of running lean is running with the ABSENCE of fuel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think so. The definition of "running lean" is an engine operating at an air fuel ratio higher than 14.7:1. And if there is an absence of fuel, the car won't run at all.
The definition of running lean is running with the ABSENCE of fuel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think so. The definition of "running lean" is an engine operating at an air fuel ratio higher than 14.7:1. And if there is an absence of fuel, the car won't run at all.
12-06-2007, 08:06 AM
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Re: (King V)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dont think so. The definition of "running lean" is an engine operating at an air fuel ratio higher than 14.7:1. And if there is an absence of fuel, the car won't run at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah. i know. absence could also mean that some of it was missing. all the fuel is not accounted for. some of it is absent. it got caught in traffic. it's sick. it's dog died. whatever. it's absent. Some of the fuel still showed up on time.
I dont think so. The definition of "running lean" is an engine operating at an air fuel ratio higher than 14.7:1. And if there is an absence of fuel, the car won't run at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah. i know. absence could also mean that some of it was missing. all the fuel is not accounted for. some of it is absent. it got caught in traffic. it's sick. it's dog died. whatever. it's absent. Some of the fuel still showed up on time.
12-06-2007, 08:36 AM
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (joe.wong321)
It this worth to buy....it locates really close to my place
http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/487227027.html
and why the code of the P2T from this seller is different ?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2107514
and ppl.....it is better to run on P2T than P28 chipped if my car supposed not hvin any mod, right ?
What is the benefit of running a P2T then ? more stock ?
http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/487227027.html
and why the code of the P2T from this seller is different ?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2107514
and ppl.....it is better to run on P2T than P28 chipped if my car supposed not hvin any mod, right ?
What is the benefit of running a P2T then ? more stock ?
12-06-2007, 08:47 AM
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (joe.wong321)
@ B serious
I see where your novice thinking comes into play, but that's not quite how it works...
You're thinking "less fuel, better gas mileage" - and that WOULD be true, if the engines were the same - but they're not. Actually they're not even similar.
Running an engine rich/lean or off of its norm of 14.7:1 A/F will make the engine run inefficiently, an engine running inefficiently will need MORE FUEL to make the power (as it still has to try and achieve a 14.7 A/F).
It's very similar to why your VTEC cams switch lobes - it increases engine efficiency, this increases engine output power, and fuel economy. The same goes for running it rich/lean. When you decrease the engine's performance, the performance of the engine goes out the window, as does the fuel economy.
So no, his fuel economy won't be better, and he's doing ABSOLUTELY no good to his car by running that bullshit stock P28 on a B16a2.
Place a fuel map of a B16 over the fuel map over a Z6 sometime, not close by a long shot, stop telling him false **** - telling him to keep his P28 in for better gas mileage 'n ****
EDIT:
PS: I'm pretty sure both the Z6 and the B16a2 run 240cc injectors.
@ OP:
Put the P2T in, end this useless thread.
I see where your novice thinking comes into play, but that's not quite how it works...
You're thinking "less fuel, better gas mileage" - and that WOULD be true, if the engines were the same - but they're not. Actually they're not even similar.
Running an engine rich/lean or off of its norm of 14.7:1 A/F will make the engine run inefficiently, an engine running inefficiently will need MORE FUEL to make the power (as it still has to try and achieve a 14.7 A/F).
It's very similar to why your VTEC cams switch lobes - it increases engine efficiency, this increases engine output power, and fuel economy. The same goes for running it rich/lean. When you decrease the engine's performance, the performance of the engine goes out the window, as does the fuel economy.
So no, his fuel economy won't be better, and he's doing ABSOLUTELY no good to his car by running that bullshit stock P28 on a B16a2.
Place a fuel map of a B16 over the fuel map over a Z6 sometime, not close by a long shot, stop telling him false **** - telling him to keep his P28 in for better gas mileage 'n ****
EDIT:
PS: I'm pretty sure both the Z6 and the B16a2 run 240cc injectors.
@ OP:
Put the P2T in, end this useless thread.
12-06-2007, 07:16 PM
#22
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (dizzyd)
I bought the P2T ecu on craigslist and plug it in
OMG....it ran all the way to 8k rpm
and I could actually felt and heard when vtec kicked in around 5.4k rpm
The only thing is the P2T made the CEL came up
plug the P28 back in, CEL came off
How can I fix it ?
Oh....here is some pictures of the P28 and I found a chip in the glovebox
Thanks
OMG....it ran all the way to 8k rpm
and I could actually felt and heard when vtec kicked in around 5.4k rpm
The only thing is the P2T made the CEL came up
plug the P28 back in, CEL came off
How can I fix it ?
Oh....here is some pictures of the P28 and I found a chip in the glovebox
Thanks
12-06-2007, 07:29 PM
#23
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (joe.wong321)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
check the link and once you get a code. come back here and let us know and we will help you from there
Looks like from the first picture, there is no chip.
check the link and once you get a code. come back here and let us know and we will help you from there
Looks like from the first picture, there is no chip.
12-06-2007, 07:45 PM
#24
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (NOman0608)
A) Resize your damp photos
B) Don't bother going to the link NOman0608 provided, you have an OBD-II car.
C) Take it to autozone, advance auto, pep boys, etc. - they'll OBD-II scan it for free right through the OBD-II port located on the underside of the dash on the driver's side?
What's the difference between this and going to that link?
Jumping the service connector can give you a ROUGH idea, it will tell you OBD-I error codes, which aren't as accurate as the OBD-II or "P" codes. Example, OBD-I checking with the service connector might tell you "Fuel system problem" - or something to that effect - while OBD-II would tell you more precisely what's wrong.
Take it to any chain store, they'll scan it for free, a code from an OBD-II scanner will always be better than an OBD-I pulled code - the P2T ECU is OBD-II, so is your car - go get that **** scanned
.
B) Don't bother going to the link NOman0608 provided, you have an OBD-II car.
C) Take it to autozone, advance auto, pep boys, etc. - they'll OBD-II scan it for free right through the OBD-II port located on the underside of the dash on the driver's side?
What's the difference between this and going to that link?
Jumping the service connector can give you a ROUGH idea, it will tell you OBD-I error codes, which aren't as accurate as the OBD-II or "P" codes. Example, OBD-I checking with the service connector might tell you "Fuel system problem" - or something to that effect - while OBD-II would tell you more precisely what's wrong.
Take it to any chain store, they'll scan it for free, a code from an OBD-II scanner will always be better than an OBD-I pulled code - the P2T ECU is OBD-II, so is your car - go get that **** scanned
.
12-06-2007, 09:52 PM
#25
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Re: I can't rev my em1 to redline... !? (Syndacate)
No that ecu is not chipped, your running an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness. I suggest you ditch that ecu soon and get the proper one. Plug in the right ecu pull the battery reconnect it and you should be set. Who ever did that is stupid and risks blowing the motor, it wont pass smog.