jlsmi2

I'm trying to get an idea about what someone might pay for my car, which I might sell. I love it, but it needs some basic cosmetic work and I haven't had much time lately.

The car is a phantom gray 1992 Civic Cx. Body has 200k miles. There is a legit 1994 USDM b18c1 GSR swap that includes trans, ecu, engine and axles. Engine/trans has just under 100k miles. The car also has a brake swap from an Integra including larger front discs, rear discs and larger OEM master cylinder. Clutch has just under 30k miles and is a ACT HDSS. The suspension was recently revamped adding front and rear Suspension Techniques sway bars (Tein green color), Tein springs and Tokico Illumina adjustable struts. The exhaust was also revamped about 15k miles back. There is a DC 4-1 JDM Type R header w/ 2.5" collector, custom 2.5" Carsound stainless high flow converter and Greddy/Trust SP2 full stainless exhaust system. It also has an air intake w/ K&N filter.

Although the car runs tip top, it is in need of some cosmetic TLC. It needs a new carpet, which I removed because it was in bad shape, and it has minor nicks and scratches and a fender that was replaced a few years ago but never painted. It has some moderate rust over the passenger side rear wheel well and the beginning signs of rust on the driver's side rear wheel well. Door jams are from an Si and they have pockets and the front seats are from a 96. Trunk carpet and flooring is worn. It is sitting on a set of 00 Civic Si rims w/ so so Toyo Proxes tires.

If you were either purchasing this car or selling it, what would you suggest fair value to be for this car? Please remember work and cost involved in the motor swap and brake swap.

Thank you

jlsmi2

oh sh*t! wrong forum!

Kidnkorner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlsmi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Please remember work and cost involved in the motor swap and brake swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be foolish to believe you could recover anywhere near what you spent on the vehicle, regardless of the items. You will never recover money spent for labor.

I say appraise the car according to kbb.com. Then find out the market value of the drive train that used to be in your car and subtract the market value of the drive train thats in it currently and add in the difference.

For example;


3,200 Integra drive train
-1,800 Civic drive train
--------
=1,400 Added value to Civic


So if those were real numbers you could add them to whatever kbb.com says what private party value was.

Or you could hire an independent car appraiser.



$2,999.00 94-97 B18C1 complete swap from Hmotorsonline.com
-$1,200.00 92-95 D15 Complete swap from car-parts.com
------------
=$1,799 added to what KBB says your car is worth depending on condition of vehcile.

so between $3,729 and $3,024



Modified by Kidnkorner at 11:58 PM 11/25/2007

pd0019

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kidnkorner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would be foolish to believe you could recover anywhere near what you spent on the vehicle, regardless of the items. You will never recover money spent for labor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2. you will never get your money back for labor and many other things.

your price of the car will vary on the condition. i think kidnkorner estimate might be a little low. might want to set your asking price a little higher. see what others are selling their car for right now and what mods they have and base your asking price off that.

jlsmi2

yea i realize you don't get money back on labor, per se, but there's something to be said for something that is in good mechanical condition that already has added improvements like the brake set up.

i think his estimate is off by at least $1000-$1500. mainly because the kbb's value has no reflection on what a eg hatch sells for in nj and also bc the oem drivetrain is worth nothing close to $1200. the brakes, exhaust, etc are added improvements that do add value, of course not as much as what they were purchased for new, but value nonetheless.

Type X

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlsmi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh sh*t! wrong forum!</TD></TR></TABLE>

moved.

numberone

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlsmi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i realize you don't get money back on labor, per se, but there's something to be said for something that is in good mechanical condition that already has added improvements like the brake set up.

i think his estimate is off by at least $1000-$1500. mainly because the kbb's value has no reflection on what a eg hatch sells for in nj and also bc the oem drivetrain is worth nothing close to $1200. the brakes, exhaust, etc are added improvements that do add value, of course not as much as what they were purchased for new, but value nonetheless.</TD></TR></TABLE> You are going to get $4k-5k nontheless. I just sold my 94 dx hatch with Jdm B16 for $5200, it was super clean though.

koa

this is why i never sell my cars...you never get back what you put into to it....its better to part it out.

B18C5-EH2

Street value for the chassis is like $1,800-$2,200, but one with rust? Sorry man that's the killer. I'd say FAIR value for one that has rusted rear 1/4 panels, even light rust, is more like $500.00.

Street value for GS-R swap with 100K is like $2,800

Street value for all other parts is negligible as you won't be able to calculate and add it all up to get the complete overall value of the entire car.

I'd say an honest value for the car would be $3,500.00 or so, given the fact that if it's to be a made a WHOLE car it will NEED immediate body shop attention to adress the rust issues in the rear of the car. Without the rust then someone could easily pay $4,500-$5,000 depending on how clean the rest of the car actually is.

I'd rather buy a car with missing hood, front fenders, and front bumper than buy one with any rust in the rear wheel wells and/or 1/4 panels. The front end **** is bolt-on.

Syndacate

Don't KBB ****.

Not only is it always wrong, but it can't account for car's appearance, dents, dings, etc. - also can't account for engine swaps, brake upgrades, aftermarket sway bars, etc.

It's a CX so it doesn't have jack **** in terms of refinements, so I'm guessing power dick - no PS, no AC, no PDRL, no passenger mirror, so on and so forth.

I'd probably say $3500 if you say it needs some TLC. Start it out at like 3800 though as a buyer will try and talk you down. I wouldn't let it go for under 3300. On the flipside, I don't know how much you consider "TLC" - you need to take some pictures of that for a more accurate unofficial appraisal.

Bakeoff

That's like asking how much your arm is worth... Stupid question.

Get some pics up. Then it might be valid. But if you want to fight us and say "blah blah blah, hatches in NJ, blah blah blah" STFU and slap a price on it already and stop wasting our time.

Kidnkorner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlsmi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Based on what is being said I'm pretty confident I could get between $4000-$5000.

Which is 1 person mind you while everyone else said 3-4
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but your body has rust, dents and dings and your interior is crap. take your drive train back to OEM ans well as the braking system and you would be hard pressed to get anything close to $2,000. If someone paid more for your car at either end of the spectrum they are either up to get into a hatch, or really stupid.

If you feel the OEM drive train and ECU isn't worth the $1200 then you call your local salvage yards and get prices on all the components. I was being conservative.

If you have a price you would like to get for the car list it for a few hudred over that and call it a day. Why bother to ask anyones opinion? The truth is I did way more than anyone else here. You have to ask yourself "how much did I pay for the car," "How many hatchbackas are like mine," "how many hatchbacks like mine I have I personally seen sold or sold myself," "How many hatches like mine have people personally seen sold of the people who replied with statements that (this is what they go for where I am)."


Modified by Kidnkorner at 7:36 AM 11/27/2007

Kidnkorner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't KBB ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats makes no sense. It isn't accurate because the seller almost always thinks their car is perfect and wants more for their vehicle, where the buyer looks over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb deducting for the slightest imperfection. It can account for dents, dings and appearance. read the print under each condition rating. KBB will be the 1st to tell you their service is a guide and uses averages it isn't the bible for car pricing. The best way to sell your car is use all the guides AND research local listing to see what other vehicles that match yours are listed for. Or you can scrap all that and just slap a price what you think its worth and call it a day.

You KBB the car as if it was stock and you add to that. In all honesty the plethora of stuff people do to their cars don't add any value.

Car + Parts + labor does not equal price
Car + Parts dont equal price either

As far as a drive train swap goes you should do it just the way i suggested. Deduct the value of stock drive train from drive train installed and add this amount to the vehicle.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kidnkorner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats makes no sense. It isn't accurate because the seller almost always thinks their car is perfect and wants more for their vehicle, where the buyer looks over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb deducting for the slightest imperfection. It can account for dents, dings and appearance. read the print under each condition rating. KBB will be the 1st to tell you their service is a guide and uses averages it isn't the bible for car pricing. The best way to sell your car is use all the guides AND research local listing to see what other vehicles that match yours are listed for. Or you can scrap all that and just slap a price what you think its worth and call it a day.

You KBB the car as if it was stock and you add to that. In all honesty the plethora of stuff people do to their cars don't add any value.

Car + Parts + labor does not equal price
Car + Parts dont equal price either

As far as a drive train swap goes you should do it just the way i suggested. Deduct the value of stock drive train from drive train installed and add this amount to the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to disagree, but KBB still doesn't mean **** for detemrining value for selling a lot of vehicles.

Biggest problem they don't adress is the "it" factor. Civic hatchback, Nissan 240, etc. etc. - there are WAY too many cars that KBB lists WAy under ACTUAL market value.

True that too many people ask unrealistic prices for their cars, but still true is that a lot of people pay those ridiculous asking prices, so really who is the moron?

slacks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Biggest problem they don't adress is the "it" factor. Civic hatchback, Nissan 240, etc. etc. - there are WAY too many cars that KBB lists WAy under ACTUAL market value.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


I couldn't agree more on that one. Manual transmission civics are in such high demand around here it's insane. Some latino guy was going to offer me any price I wanted in cash for my car (in a Wegman's parking lot!!), just because it was a civic. Regardless of the fact that my car is a junker right now.

Try offering what you think the car is worth and work the price around with some people.